MilesFox

you can get the betterheads off a later model hatch, and use them on the ea71 in an older brat. that will give you ea81 valves. you can also swap an ea81 bellhousing for a 5spd if your existing motor has the starter dead on top. if the starter is on the side then a 5spd will already fit

its gott suck out from somewhere! that is why it is called PVC Positive Crankcase Ventilation. you want to have a lower pressure behind the pistons, heeps thinds moving. otherwise all the blowby will buld up and slow things down. anyway, that is how it is designed to work. but most likely mainly it goes back into the intake for emissions reasons. so i guess you are good to go either way, the crankcase will still vent as long as blowby has a way out

ok, i am going to end this right now. first off, these are subarus. subaru designed this little solenoid that keeps the drop in intake pressure from slowing up the turbo between shifts. and i will tell you what, i put a 5spd in my 90 hp ea81 turbo to replace the rump roast-o-matic. i dumped the clutch ans spumn all four tires in 4wd hi in 2nd gear! and thats only because i thought it was in 1st low! and the automatic wouldnt even let the tires break free in mud. you dont see an automatic in the rally car? autos in subarus were an afterthought. my buddy had a 2.5 rs(non turbo) and the auto really wouldnt let its rpms do their things. its like subaru put automatica in as an after thought, so that people who coulndt drive a stick would actually buy one! NUFF SAID!

the crack is very slight and barely a cm long. and its at the bottom where the flange meets the mating surface. will that be ok? its too late because i already have the heads on and the motor mostly put together. it didnt look too bad to me, i was more concerned with the ones between the valves......

girlfriend? what you saying? vixen would be more appropriate! anyway.............................its an 87 gl-10 turbo TrashWagon6. thats ea82t in soob speak i gots a single row radiator, and clutch fan for now. there was no radiator in the car when i got it. would 160 be too cold for winter? i could run it anyway, as long as i dont have problems. i like to gets on it, and i know a soob will get hot driving in snow. condensation in oil wont bother me, it will probably evaporate, at least its not coolant!

the 3500 rpm is where the soob motor is most happy. its right smack in the middle of the power band. if you were cruising a taller gear at a lower rpm, you might find your foot in the gas more to keep it moving. 3500 rpms is the most efficient rpm, the most power with least throttle, from my experiences. even crawling around off road in low gar at 5 mph, i t does best at 3000-3500 rpms, all the way up to 4500

if the receiving car is an 86, use the 86 diustributor. the 85 and 86 distributors will work in any car with any coil setup, but the 87 wont. that is what Noah told me when we couldnt get the 8a82 in the 82 glf to run. i always make it a rule to use the distributor that is original to the car itself, that is, if you are using the same induction method that is original to the car. an example of the 86 dist uses: i got an ea82 in my 83 wagon with an 86 disty, just 2 wires to the coil. i got an 87 gl-10 that had turbo, but i got an spfi block with a carb, and of course, the 86 disty. the coil has all the atatchmets for the turbo's disty, but i left that all there and connected the 86 disty's 2 wores to the coil, and it works like its supposed to!

the haynes manual will say the outer half of the axle is non serviceable. i couldnt get it apart. the way tom describe you will have to break it to get it apart! but if its just an axle stub to hold a wheel on, whats the hurt in that?

i looked at an xt6 window, it has a cable that moves the window up and down. the cable sheath is retained by white plastic clips, and a little clip rides up and down on the exposed part of the cable, and is connected to the bottom of the window frame. there is a spring that is under tension when the window is down, and that helps the cable take the window up. suppose the spring is not working, broke, disconnected? pop the door panel off and have a look-see. if you want to keep the plastic moisture barrier intact, undo the clips that hold the doorhandle to the rod mechanisms, so you dont have to rip yout plastic af you yake it completely off

if the threads are mangeld, or the axle nut is loose, the rotor will rub against the caliper bracket. it will go away when turning one direction, or using the brake. does the noise go away ehen using the brake?

oops, i thought the thread said "Changed brake fluid" if it is brake fluid related, maybe the ambience of the brake fluid light is lighting up the rest. take your ride to auto zone and get a free charging test, of find a volt meter, the alt should be putting out a good 14 volts, 13 is too low, 15 is too much. that will single out voltage regulators test your voltage at above idle if autozone finds its a bad voltage regulator and tries to sell you one, just say "Thank You, i'll go get a junkyard alt off any 83-84 soob(excluding legacy, impreza). cheaper that way.

the orange one must be the little skinny flosser i mentioned. it should go to a reducer that connects it to a fatter hose. the spfi should have it, unless the reducer is missing. did it come off with the spfi motor? does your heater select between floor, vent and defrost? if that is the line i am talking about, you should get away with connecting it to any vacuum source, as long as its not on the boost side of things.......... so what about the heater selector? if the yellow hoses are coming off the turbo, loop them into eachother, since there will be nothing on the spfi for them to go to pretty much should go from the turbo outlet to the wastegate, 2 inches of hose will do it (that is how i seen it on a stock 86 turbo xt, like it was supposed to be)

i have seen one in a brat that had an obious weld mark in the middle as if it had been narrowed. but i couldnt tell you what it came from

if i remember right a colder plug is called colder because it will dissipate its heat to the head, wheras a hot plug will not. its has to do with heat conductivity, not the spark...... otherwise a plug that is not of the "cold" variety may act as a 'hot spot' for preignition. what is your gap at now? you would want to stay oe spec if you have no ignition mods, but if you got the coil and all that you could go up to .050 would your timing need to be advanced, rather than retarded? if you retard the ignition it will make the motor lug, and advancing will make it idle up........

the float on the cap may be stuck, or the plug might be loose enough to break the circuit......its like the float in the back of the toilet how it works, but with wires.................

the cracks end at the valve guide. at least the seat is still in place. the only soob heads i have seen that were ACTUALLY bad, the valve seat had come out and wedged the valve open. i was told that little cracks bt the spark plug hole are expected, and there is a tiny one at the webbing of the exhaust port. OH WELL.....i put the heads on anyway, well at least if they work then we wont need to throw out heads with odd cracks! we'll see if it works........................................................ what does anyone else know? OH YEAH, i forgot to mention these are ea82 heads

i wonder if anyone can dig up the "You Know You're Obsessed wit Subarus" thread from the old board a while back?. i think someone cut and paste it to a webpage? it had some 300 wone-liners, kind of like Miles FoxWorthy!

of course it wont show up at napa if they look up soobs. so does anyone know of the coldest thermostat that will fit in a soob, what make/year of another car to order for, or part number its for my turbo

did you have the battery cable off? maybe the positive terminal is loose. power will restore with a jiggle, but will loose power as soon as you try to start, uless, of cours, you tighten it up all the yellow wires to the coil are on the negative terminal, and the balck wire with the white stripe, and anything with a red contact is the positive side. and the little capacitor radio noise supressor goes to the positive coil terminal

have you ever had the center console apart, the lead from the switch plugs in down there, might as well take a look....

from what i saw was the xt had some odd cable driven window syste, wheras all the other soob windows were of the "scissor" type. the plastic cable retainers broke off, so the cable just flexes around rather than pull anything.

the one extra fuel line on the driver side(actually its a vent line) will connect to the little dooker that comes up off the framerail from under the master cylinder. there will be a little skinny fyosser off the passenger strut tower that controls your heater controls and cruise. there will be 2 lines off near of the turbo, loop those together, those were for the boost gauge and fuel cut off. hope that helps. o got a spfi with carb motor down in my turbo wagon, those hosed just hang there, so if the turbo motor is in an spfi, the other ends of the same hose would just hang there! hope that helps, i will pe putting my turbo motor together this weekend with PORTED heads! are there any specific lines on the intake doing loop-de-loops, or is that all left alone? if i have to i can bring my spare manifold with me to the library! my motor is an 87 gl-10, i helped to rebuild an 87 gl-10, and pulled the motor from an 86 xt and put it back in. if that will help.....

i got the valves out of my turbo heads. i know its normal to have cracks between the valves, bu thow far down? the cracks go down to the valve guides. i dont think there are any oil passaged there. i think there is a small one towards the bottom of the exhaust pfr, but it is onlt about a half inch long and ends. there is a tiny 1/8 inch crack near the spark plug hole on one of the cc's there are no cracks on top the head or the sides. i took the time to port them, i'm gonna use them anyway, i just want to know what to expect! the motor has both gaskets blown when i got it, only one cyl was sealed up. hopefully it lost too much compression and quit running before it let the heads get too hot

i would have had the brakes done on the xt, but jim drove the turbo wagon to work, with the rotors in the back. but hey, nothing like a 3-day weekend full of soobs! now ALL of jim's soobs RUN AND DRIVE. only thing left is carb issues on the brat, and the title to the XT

why would you replace your driveshaft? if you are swapping in another 5spd, or dual range, it will fit. remove the turbo shroud and unbolt the downpipe from the back of the motor, the side of the tranny, and the rear of the tranny, and from the rest of the exhaust. if you have i ahoist you can pull the motor out first, do seals and belts or whatever, and lower the tranny into the car from under the hood...... drop the tranny with its crossmember, just unbolt the crossmember from the car, still attatched to the tranny. you can pull the tranny with all the shift linkage still attatched jack the car up on its side, it will give you more room to mess with the driveshaft, exhaust, and of course the tranny. that way the tranny bellhousing will clear the underside of the car. you may have to swing the rump roast end of the tranny around to the side ogf the car, and lift up on it so the bell housing will come out from under the framerail. remove the 3 bolts that hold the pitch bar mount before you drop the trans, and remove the starter so it will clear the firewall drain all the gear oil out before pulling the driveshaft, as the rear seal will leak out all over the floor, and you dont want to lay in a mess! when you go back tohether, put the starter in last--that way you can tighten the pressure plate bolts through the starter! when pulling the axles off the trans, or putting them back on, simmply move the tranny over to one side to do each axle, but this is if the motor is out. i highly recommend pulling the motor first, it will make the job WAY easier, and you can service at least the rear crank seal while youre at it! if you undo the motor mounts and jack up the tranny, you can get to the bottom stud's nuts better. if you are going to leave the motor in the car, unbolt the motor mounts from the crossmember and jack the motor up a few inches, so the tranny will slide off the back without hanging up on the crossmember. you will want to leave the motor up to put it back on