MilesFox

i could throw one together like a box of legos! but i dont have a building anymore, and parts are impossible to come by. but it would be neat to see what i could come up with!

the one i had was perfect off road--untill the rear axle started to fall out. this car was the epitome of what salt would do. probably the most rusted soob i had seen. but it was mechanically sound, 135000 miles, and held STRONG oil pressire i'll bet its light blue with blue interior. shoot me if i'm wrong

at least try to figure out what's up before going to the cops, and give him a heads up if you contact him. . but i dont blame you if you have to..........

we will be wswapping a 2wd auto into a 4wd auto xt with a bad front diff. would the pump shaft interchange? i have jim's 2wd pump shaft, but i am missing the inner shaft. i will need to know for this weekend wether to bring it or not....... do governor shafts swap between 2wd and 4wd too?

i think that's the same dealer jim got his outback from. its listed in the user appreciation dealers in Drive MAgazine. i think it would look better if they used the sedan rear glass..... how about a 2door model, using the c pillar of a 3-door without the hatch, on a wagon body!

alleyboy: the xt6 rear and front suspension is waht i'm looking for more specifically, the rear swingarm and brake assembly only, and the front lowercontrol arm, swaybar, and strut/knuckle assy. i have jim's 2wd auto's pump shaft, but its missing the inner shaft. would a pump shaft from a 4wd fot a 2wd? i know that one will fit from an e282 2wd auto to an ea81 2wd auto. governor shafts should fit the same too. if i dont start this new job over the weekend i will be at jim's tong a tranny swap!

if you are in neutral for a few moments, sometimes it has a tendency to grind. i always pit it in first(from a stop) before i go into reverse! and its really easy to rock a mt from 1st to reverse in a mid/snow hole to get things going, if your timing is right

holy dook nougat! *makes drooling noise like homer simpson* now for me to put my turbo motor together!

carpet and sheetmetal. make it TrashWagon7 !!!!

the rear passenger door, the window switch is missing the button that operates it. therefore probably un-grounding the passenger side. the circuitry is funny like that jim, that is something we can work on in a weekend.

well, josh, if we could get that wagon at maxtons, if that guy can decide he wants to come off it for a price rather than have it rust away with a broken timing belt, the yard in bryan ohio has a few ea81 sedans. i would almost consider doing the gl-10 if it werent as solid as it is(by rust-belt standards. call about that soob in fort wayne, it says "make offer" and all it needs is an alternator. i have like 6 of them. get them out the carbola before they get junked!!! keep an eye out for 3-doors, because we dont want to chop the RX!!!!!!

hey john, if this job interview gets me in, i will have a decent income, and if you make the trip th PA, i would go with you. if we could make a package deal and get a good price, i will go half on it, you get the motor, i get the suspension. if i start this job it will be within a week from now. hopefully i can land my hands on the xt6 here in butler. the body is rather rough, rusty, but straight, the bumper moulding is a little crooked, but the whole car is intact.

altough you will use a fuse for each circuit, use a good 30 amp fuse near the battery, so if the fat wire grounds out on the firewall, it will keep ut from burning up. a fuse like that for stereo amplifiers would be perfect, and the cable it used too

i would personally mount the terminal strip somewhere inside the car, that way i only have one fat wire coming in thru the firewall. i like to run wires right on thru with the speedometer cable thru its grommet. run a wire the same fatness as the one off the alternator. if you run a pair of big lights, either use a metal switch, or use a relay. i have found that the plastic lighted toggles will melt when the terminals get hot (55 and 100w lights) my stereo is connected to the fuse panel to the acc, but it has its own fuse inline. if you look around you will find a good place for a terminal strip, i would say somewhere near the passenger kick panel. you could bring your wire up thru one of the ac grommets since the battery is over on that side (i keep forgetting my battery is on the other side when trying to think of mine as an example)

get that thing legal and drive it all over! so how did that offer go on the sedan? it would make a good weekend body project, bondo and spray paint to fix the wheel arches before they go bad. i might have a governor shaft, if i can get ti, but it was supposed to go on zanny dook's maybe you can borrow the one of the xt, or the one of that 2wd auto if it will fot on a 4wd

how about chopping the roof straight across the top right where the top of the door window meets the pillar and roof. cut along the body crease, the one 2 inches below the window, down the side of the car and even with the taillights. do the same to a parts sedan now put the sedan roof on what's missing on the wagon, put the sedan rear decklid and glass on the wagon. hwve it where it seals up against the top of the back seats, use the bottom portion of the tailgate as the gate for a truck bed. now you have a pass-thru, but the glass doesnt come out, just like the real thing! i also have this idea to make a brat out of a wagon using a 3-door(ea82's)

i have this idea to make a baja out of an ea82 wagon and the rear c-pillar of a sedan. it would be pimp, because its still an ea82!

if you were to seal up the speakers against the lid, it would act like a regular speaker box. the piece of wood being sealed off wouldnt matter as long as the whole lid is sealed off. there is a golden ratio when it comes to speaker enclosure size, also mentioned in the radio shack book. you might as well go get the radio shack book, it goes a lot into the principles of speaker dynamics, and knowing a little will hwlp you to get your setup to sound better than the typical "big amp and big speakers but doesnt sound good" having a good sounding stereo is more about how your setup is rather than how big your components are. the book also tells about series and parallel circuits, ohm ratings, and bridging the amp. its good knowledge worth knowing when you go to set up a stereo system! let me know it it sopunds any better maybe adding a tube bass port somewhere between the amp and speakers (you could probably remove the wood if you have enough dynamat for the whole enclosure) you will get better sound by allowing the box to "breathe" the more air you can move around the better it will sound

good for while driving, too!

well, next time i go out west i would consider US route 2, rather than the interstate 90/94. that would take me more northward and probably closer to ya. how far is us 2?

suppose you could mount a strAIGHT AXLE TO THE EXISTING SOOB REAR TRAILING ARM (MOUNTS FABRICATED, of course) so it would be sort of like a 5-link rear suspension?

whatever your gauge reads at 2500 rpm will be your pressure to determine by. if it goes to 15 or 20 at idle, sounds ok to me. i have seen 45psi readings slowlt tricle down to almost 0 at idle. at least you have pressure at idle. ma want to do the pump seal as precautionary, but the pump sounds like its ok to me. i personally wouldnt worry about it

well, its good that you got it done right, because its rare that i ever see a soob that still has rockers! at least now you know they will still be there later down the road! good luck with it

funny thing, because i swapped a carb on jims brat and it still fell flat. i turned the distributor up and it helped, but would not get over 4000 rpm's. you said you get spark. you didn't take the distributor out did you? others on the board have experienced a "pig tail" wire coming loose in the distributor, but if that was the case, you wouldnt have spark. maybe the spark plugs crapped out. i put a motor together, idled rough, whenever i set the timing to spec it wouldnt run. turns out it had 2 bad plugs. yank them out and take a look. sometmes a fould plug will still spark, although weekly. if the spark looks yellow, it's bad. a normal plug condition the insulator should be a nice tan color, that of a toasted marshmallow

the act of throwing it away!