MilesFox

just so long as their lot dont flood out and total your car (again) unless you are tired of your car already! at least its not a new tracker!!!

well, at least you can put subaru wheels on an atv in hopes that you can register it as a motorcycle (dot approved tires, turn lights, brake light, speedometer)

if you had 3 bones. i would rather have a pack of cigarettes! around here you go to the parts counter and tell them you need parts for an 84 4x4 subaru, they are like "it's not listed, what kind of truck was that?" hell, you have to order away for intake gaskets! its not worth the hassle for me in my opinion, they wouldnt have it in stock but that's here in redneck central "one of those foreign jobbers"

on the ea82 you will see the holes stamped out on the outer metal, but they are solid on the next layer. you have to drill all the way through(ours was a sedan, thru the trunk) they will come out just at the edge of the inner fender plastic where it meets the carpet. its opssible to just drill the first layer, and put a captive nut behind it through the hole where the bumper mounts fit into(on a wagon) if you go thru the floor, use a fat washer, as it will want to pull thru as you torque it down. i would suggest using the nuts with the nylon insert so it will stay tight without a lot of torque

rust is nothing to worry about until you go to sand it off and a big cunk of whatever was the panel falls through! surface rust is child's play. did you replace the rocker panel because it was surface rust, or just not there to begin with!?!@?!?!?!?!

you can use the handle end on a pair of pliers, or even the bite end, the pliers in the oem subaru tool kit works perfecty for thay. just try not to booger the surface, and be careful of the seal. if its an old crusty caliper, you can use a channel lock plier to get the first or second turn, as it will free up as you turn it make sure the parking brake is off when you bleed the caliper if its rear disc, then you dint need to turn the piston, just push it in, because there is no parking brake mechanism on the rear the parking brake mechanism on the front is why the pistons turn in rather than push in

i think that that would be a normal desighn, keeps you from throwing it in first accidentally and redlining it inadvertently. if shifting into first while rolling, it would help to rev it up a little to match rpm

also when checking the timing, check the vacuum advance and see if it holds. remember to disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the line when using the timing lite to set the distributor. after you get that done, hook up the vacuum advance, and rev it up, and see if the timing mark moves around thru rpms

pulled a camaro out of an alley 50 feet in foot deep snow with a turbo automatic single range and a leaky tranny seal. they dooked themselves the fact that i pulled them out, and dooke themselves some more seeong a 50 foot trail of red in the snow!!!:santa:

cool! me likey likey! its like the direct opposite of the "Roof of Boom" the floor of boom? anyway, i like the idea of having speakers and such without using up your wagons cargo versatility. mine was on the roof, an 83, doesnt have the smugglers box.... yeah, drill holes for sound, but so nothing will poke thru and dameage the spaeker. pack some fiberglass insulation in the box around the spaekers, it will give more "mass" to vibrat and give deeper bass. that one is mentioned in radio shack's "building speaker systems" book that way the bass is shaking things up, will help make up for sound coming directly out of little holes. drill the holes out rather large, at leadst 1/2 inch to 3/4, close together, it will still act like a flat floor for strenght use one of those flat spade type drill bits for cheap, as any large bit will be expensive an only fit in a drill press

hey brian, you neet to move out of that nazi strict state you live in. rich neighbors in suv's dont like to hear angle grinders going off in the middle of the night, or revving of open ports. (sorry to stereotype) i did in now way take you "bag" comment the wring way! i just though i would put my 2 cents of experience in. i was fortunate to have my bos's building to use, but a driveway with an extension cord works just as good! either way i drove my car all over, so my point is it was driveable regardless. just a matter of how bad a heap you can keep under control on the road! towing trailers with notheing but the parking brake while passing the sheriff in a half painted dog-tracking under-rated for a 2 axle trailer is not the best of ideas. but it has been done!!!!!! hey snowstormer, i'll stop by when i get my car back from idaho(and i will have a valid license this time) keep an eye out for the wrench I left behind, and dont let that junkyard rip you off!

atv big boofy tires are rated for lower psi. hope they dont pop the beads with the weight of a soob. but try it out, you may never know! but the atv tires are not radial, are not dot approved, and are illegal and probably unsafe for paved road usage, but they will be a lot of fun off road!!!

all of the different styles of starters i have seen will mount the same at least being a 5spd to begin with you can use the same mounts and crossmember. the only trouble spot will be the driveshaft mount. what you got is a little less involved than the 2wd auto to 5spd 4wd that we did, so i know for a fact you can do it with no problem

its only a waste of time having 3 cars if someone junks 2 of them when you werent looking! but gettin your hands dirty on more and more soobs is gold. you are only going to know about what you get into to begin with. that is my claim to my subaru knowledge, because i went through so many of them. i think if you can manage, keep them all swap around the best stuff on your favorite ride, and use the leftovers to keep the others driveable. to bad you didnt live out this way, because you can let the grass grow high enough and no one would see them to complain!!!! as long as you can see them done its worh it. just so long as you dont mind spending all your time on subarus. but if you have a subaru, what better else is there to do?! (besides the message board!)

both driver side windows work, but the passenger windows dont. jim, i noticed the switch was busted on the passenger rear door. i remember danny;s car had the switch hanging by the wire, and it got caught in the door, and busted. after that half his windows didnt work. in that switch there may be electrical connectiond that complete the other window's circuits. replace that switch with a good one (i'm sure you have one on one of those doors you got! i looked at it and the wire is pretty far down there, so you will probably have to remove the door panel to get at it. replace the switch and see if that fixes it, and we'll go from there. i highly doubt the window motors themselves are bad, but at least fix the switch before removing the seats and carpet to check the breaker

it might already have the parts necessary behind the dash. if it was eqiupped for optional ac. there is ductwork behind the stereo console for the heater core, it might be in there, but i have no clue. you could cut through the ductwork(althoug a redneck method) to get at what you need

hope its not the front diff! drian the diff oil and see of chunky bits come out the last one might have just been the governor. maybe between the 2 trannies you will have enough parts for one to work!

i know all about that drill at the dr. angle grinder bits in my eye. didnt know it was metal in my eye until a few days later when i couldnt standit any longer. tom, sorry about the over spray at Jim's! at least you get your daily iron requirements for the past 20 years! basically, my point is: dont let no havin' of safety goggles ruin your credit over no damn hospital bill!

there are a lot of soob guys around australia area, just ask someone to point you to them!

i put rear discs on mine, the only fitment issue was a little rust needed to be brushed off. the 2wd backing plate being smaller sounds like the problem. because the 4wd rear knuckle hosed the bearings, thus being larger than the 2wd rear knuclke that has a spinlde insteead. aside from that i know you can use the caliper and rotor(after swapping hubs) from a 2wd. the rotors on the trashagon came off a 2wd gl-10(you know, one of the 2wd blue with blue interior gl-10's that jim keeps coming up with):temper:

your best bet would be to tap it out with courser threads. its lot cheaper than helicoul, and holds better too. get ahold of tomrhere on the board, he will tell you the details. if you search, he has posted how to do it acouple of times. something about a 7/16" (14 threads per inch) search for that

cool, south bend is within a day's drive for me, and a fwr other members. maybe we can schedule next year's Subaru Alliance meet around the south bend rally. we got turbos!

jump all over it for that price. brats are hard to find this side of the mississippi, at leas ones that didnt rust away. brats are starting to get expensive just like the old volkswagen beetle. that is what i would pay for a rusted out wagon, so sounds like its a steal! most of you fuel and brake line runs INSIDE the car, the fuel pump is external, so if any of it needs replaced its all right there by the rear axle, and easy to get to.

yaeh, if you spend any time or money on rust, go all uout. at least you know it will last out west there. it wouldnt be worth putting a lot of money into rust repair on a midwest car, as it will rust out again. unless you never take the car outside! anything rusty we might as well accept it one place to consider is where the front fenders atatch behind the wheel. dirt and leaves will accumulate there holding moisture and rust out the bottom of the fenders. rust is expected there on any soob found around these parts

however much the tracls may weigh, it woild be all unsprung weight, so it wouldn bear down on suabrus suspension. with the tracks, the gvwr would still be the same, the traxls woulsnt use any of that rating up.