MilesFox

does the alternator have a ground tab on the side? if i recall your ride is an 84? if no tab(which is on 82 and before) the VR is internal in the alt. new alternator!

i think the spfi dist will still work, because it works independently from the fuel system. but, when the dist rotates on the spfi, that is what kicks the fuel pump on. when going that approach, you still need to put a carb's fuel pump in, but it can be connected to the spfi's pump wire clip. the carb dist wil work too, but i think you will need one from an 85-86 i tried yo use one from an 87,(ea82 in 82 glf) had no spark, and oh noah(cis subaru) suggested an 85 or 86 dizzy all the conversions i have done used an 86 dizzy right now i have an spfi motor with a carb down in a turbo wagon, and the 86 dizzy works fine connected with its 2 wires to the turbo's coil. if i get bored i can try to use the turbo dizzy and se if it will work without the mpfi intake harness and see if that works! but what i am talking about is a carb doen in a spfi or turbo car if using the spfi block with a carb in a carb car, then you will need the carb disty. if the disty is the one from the car, then it should work. fuel pump swaps need not apply you would probably want to use the carb spec 8deg. btdc. but go ahead and try spfi's 20deg btdc (if it has to do with the compression ratio)

some ea82 might have the rear disc as an option, so look at any soob you may come across as parts the ea82 2wd and 4wd uses the same caliper and rotors, but the hubs are different. you can swap 2wd and 4wd hubs between the same rotor the caliper and mounts from 2wd and 4wd will bolt up to any 2 or 4wd ea81 rear suspension. if you have a hard time finding rear discs, ea82 drum brakes, which are slightly larger, will bolt onto an ea81. keep the drum, shoes, and backing plates from ea82 to do the swap

check yer mail!

i had an 89 dl. no tach or gauges, but you can put those in aftermarket (about 10, 15, qnd 30 bucks for oil, water, and tach) everything body and motor wise is the same as ant 85 thru 94 ea82 soob. fenders and front bumbers are the same between 3-door, sedan, and wagon. the doors will all be the same between sedan and wagon, but the back doors glass is different between sedan and wagon, but the glass is interchangeable(and so is power to manual windoe mechanisms) the rear struts will fit the same between sedan, wagon, and 3-door. it is held on by 2 bolts at the top and one bolt at the bottom. sometimes they are hard to turn, and if so, dont reef on them, because they can break if you go he-man on a super rusty bolt 500 bucks is ok for a soob that runs and drives, and its all there. if the interior is decent, it ptobably wouldnt hurt to replace a rusty door or fender, or a cracked light lens see if you can talk down to somewhere between 300 and 500 bucks. offer 420, the magic number:headbang: !

no not girlfriends (at least me) but more and lots of cheap goodies for subarus!. the money you saved on paint can put shag carpet on your ceiling!!!!!!!!! and the girlies will love that, and especially if the back seat folds down!!

if it does turn out to be a rod knock, any ea81 or ea71 motor will fit under hood, and share a lot of the same components, pick and chose the best of the bunch you can also go with an ea82 motor (85 and up-timing belts) it will bolt up the same to the tranny, and use the flywheel and pressure plate to the ea82 motor, and the clutch disc from the trans. or you can use the fly wheel from the 4spd 4wd/5spd 2wd if you drill the holes out larger. you will have to unbolt the hill holder and move it back an inch or two, and the distributor cap will be close to the master cylinder. i would suggest removing the distributor to get it down in there. this is assuming its a manual if its an auto, just use the existing torque converter and flex plate, but you might have to drill the holes out on it(not sure) you can use an ea82 flexplate if the ea81 torque converter bolts to it there is no hill holder in automatics, and the master cylinder from an automatic will clear the distributor better(for an ea82 motor) but if your ride is an automatic, and you want to swap motors, you might as well throw a manual trans under it! the conversion has been done either way many of times in many of combinationd by many on the board. stick around and you will see!

instead of tearing into the internals of the motor and swapping pistons, you could simply use a short block of a carb or spfi with your turbo heads and cams. at least you will have fresh head gaskets that wont go bad unexpectedly. and fresh gaskets will better survive a mild overheat. the turbo has 7.7:1 compression carbs have 8.5:1 compression and spfi has 9.5:1 compression. wjm has the spfi in his, he hasnt had any reliability issues, and he runs 93 octane gas with advanced timing. a carb motor will up your compression, although more mildly, you can get away with more as far as knocking and pinging, and wont have to be modded as much for reliability

the rust-oleum whit i used was all dried up, with a hard "disc) covering the wet parts. i picked out the disc, and stirred everything up. it worked, painted on thick, but brushing technique will get you coverage. i used 2 coats. it was a little chinky, has paint bits sticing to it. but thats ok for me, since the bottom of the car is most prone to rust, salts, it has a nice thick coat. my car is white below the trim molding. the whole idea of whit is it shows mud the best!

i think only the external modulators are on pre 82 soobs. i got an 83 wagon, it has an ea82 motor from an 86, with the 86's distributor, it shares the same cap and rotor as the one that came on the old motor. it was all plug and play for my application. if you pill the cap and rotor, the is a black piece that stucks up a little, that will be your ignition module. i know what kind of dist to look for, i just dont know what mine is called(nippon, hitachi, what?) the module piece should unplug the starter will have nothing to do with spark, just turning the motor over, thats all.

yes, this would be part of the same circuit. it just has different wires and clips locations depending where the bulbs are! any one of these clips would work, chose the one thats most accessible or closest to your new gauge

from what i have seen it is more common for the oil pump seal to leak than the front cam seal. i fixed my oil pump seal only and it stopped a world of leakiness!

if it was the choke, it wouls still start up, or at least fire. if the motor is not firing at all, it could be the ignition system. sometimes the ignitor module will go out on the distributor. like i said, check for fuel and spark the choke will stay partially closed, its never wide open. it should be about 1/3 open normally

you can use a carb off any wagon, brat, hatchback, or coupe (ea81) some have the oxygen sensor type(hitachi's 2bbl) and some have a 1bbl carter/weber carb. whatever carb you get, get the whole carb/intake assembly so you dont have to mess with all the vacuum lines. you could even use a carb/intake off an 85-87 ea82 car give some more details about your carb/ is the throttle cable on the passenger side or driver side?

myoss feece connected his gauges to the interior dim switch(ea82) but if he faded the brights to dim, the gauge would get bright, and if he turned up the dash lights, the gauge would get dim. my favorite place to hook up a gauge is behind the heater control panel(ea81) there are 2 small bulbs there that plug into a white clip. i just stick my wire in the clip where the wires come out the back, just shove them in there and tape it to keep them from pulling out! the light will dim with the rest and work like its supposed to these bulba re also behind the wiper and head light switch. remove the kick panel and look for any white clips with a red, and a black wire. there are a good 2 or 3 of these you could probably reach without taking it apart too much. and then you could run your wires along the steering column area, and tuch them away.

i paintsd mine up for about 35 bucks. but that is becuse i used good paint. the dollar can approach would be about 15 bucks. stay away from cheap silver paint, the ones in the ribbed can like the ones you find at dollar store(although the wal-mart version costs less) i have found that w-d 40 will dissolve it and wipe it away, wheras wd-40 acts as a polish for better paints yeah, wd-40 especially on flat/satin surfaces, will act like a wax. spray it on, wipe it down, and then rub it in with paper towels. makes water bead up in the rain, too on glossy surfaces, just wipe it down enough that its not greasy to the touch satin black krylon works good for faded b-pillars between windows, and faded headlight bezels and grilles. adam, i wnt to your site, but the library computer like to freeze, but i noticed that you are the one with the stars on the hood, i have seen pics of it before. i am on the 4th computer in an hour at the library, and if this one freezes too, there are only 2 more!

rgaff wires his tirn lights to his corner lights, them put the turn lenses in the grille, and then put fog lichts in the turn holes

my 83 gl had no clutch fan had 2 electrics. but it did have AC. it also had the 2-core radiator.

go with simple trouble shppting procedures. like check for fuel, then spark. and battery voltage. first of all get it outof the shop before you have a bill, and then get back to the message board ! i'll bet its something stupid like the fuel pump is not working, or at least is not coming on. a simple 2 dollar switch and wire fix if thats the case! get your car and holler back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so you suppose it could be clogged pcv lines, valve? my buddy's spfi motor was choking oil until the pcv lines were replaced with standard heater hose

has anyone shot up their old finish with a shot of Krylon? spray painting can look good if done properly. i had just completed a full paint job on a gl-10 wagon and here is some technique! masking. the more you take the time to tape up trim, windows, door handles and anything else not being painted, it will look better. overspray on you unpaintes/just painted will really get at you. take your time: let the paint dry before taking off tape an paper. it sux to smudge you las coat because you wanted to de-mask it ansd see what it looks like! flat/satin finish opaints, also metallic or silvery finish paints: I have found that you can burnish your freshly laid paint by taking a dry paper towel and rubbing the dry paint dow, this will take up any "dust"that has settled, and will blend in the spray patterns. on metallic finishes, do the same to "buff" any loose flake that has settled, and then shoot it up with clear coat. fast drying paint will tend to oxidize after a few monthe, but clear coat shpould prevent that. i have found that KRYLON brand holds up the best (after painting some 15 cars or so) krylon black held up through the winter with road salts all over it. when spraying, use a back and forth motion, releasing the spray button between passes. that way the paint doesn glop up on the endsand run. on thicker paints, such as orange, do several light coats to get coverage, instead of thick coats. otherwise it will look like you got coverage in one pass, then there will be a big sag along the side of the surface. use a scotch brite pad to scuff down old paint and hit it up with primer. you can use cheaper primers, its the quality of the color paint that matters. use steel wool or a paper towel to buff the primer. after painting a section, take a damp rag and wipe off any dust that settled on the next surface to be painted krylon makes a FUSION brand that polymerizes with plastic finishes, would be good for side molding trim and plastic bumpers! who has painted a car and what were your results? pictures? brush painting?(rustoleum white and satin black on the lower portion of my ride!

the driveshaft i butly was laid out next to a 2pc, with the yokes ans u joints oriented the same way. but i thik it all came to 61 inches. i am mostly sure 61 inches but we might want to have a "recall" on that to be certain. mine went onto a wagon..................

key from an 88 spfi 2wd sedan fits in the 87 rx, door and ign. took it for a quick spin when no one was lookin' but thats ok since money had beep put down to buy it!

you could use a regulare ea82, as far as pulleys being in the same place, but the turbo's has a fatter crank pulley with built in damper

the yellow wires ashould be on the - terminal, and black wire with white stripe, and anything with a red contact will be on the + terminal of the coil