MilesFox

you could put a board under the motor and a jackstand to hold the motor up, and then drop the whole crossmember,steering,lower control arm. have the strus/knuckle/axle out in one piece before deopping crossmember. unbolt the strut rods from the swaybar, and from the trans crossmember atatchment points. the parking brakes can be disconnected, there will be enough slack on them and make/relocate a mount or two disconnect the front rbber line with the steel line on the car when pulling a strut assembly

nice idea austin!. just shove a spark plug there and weld it on the tube. it worked for me.(ea82) i got a pic on http://photos.yahoo.com/milesfox you could get a line wrench, its like a box end with a cut-out to let the pipe go through.

bosch platinums didnt foul out ad bad in the pinto. but the extra +4 or split fire is just a gimmick, but platinums work just as good as any. i usually run them, i would say they are best suited for high energy ign setups

could be a loose axle nut, and the rotor is huttin g the outerh caliper frame, the caliper frame will keep the rotor in place. does the car jerk the wheel or does the tires chirp when downshifting? if so, that is what an axle will sound like before breaking in the middle of wisconsin check the front diff oil. use 90 wt gear oill

true dat!

what is that guy doing with the turbo motors? does he throw them away?. its not that the turbo is bad, he probably throws a carb in it rather than do a head gasket or timing belt. i'll bet the parts are still good. this guy must not know anything about turbos/heag gaskets. try to see what is wrong with it. but if it alrady rund doesnt mean that it id going bad. if you know about a few turbo detaild, and if the motor is in good shape, it could last a while with things like new oil pump seals and cam seals, timing belts, and water pump. any soob that goes bad is over lack of subaru specific maintenence you would have to get the wholw wiring harness. its best to get all that you need from the same ar, if not get the whole donor car. its not exactly a direct bolt on but if you ket to know your subaru it can be done!

check the timing belt marks, and ign marks. see if you get spark at the coil

from what i know they work the same. i will swap one from an spfi into the gl-10 i just got. something like its even the same(design) as the pump in WRX

how would an ea82 fit to it, are the holes in same orientation?, maybe you can drll them out, much the same as the ea81 flywheel drilled out to fit an ea82 like the one in tom's brat and myoss feece's glf hardtop would an xt-6 flywheel be a good choice?

anyone with a welder!

Noah, is that a 2wd 5spd behind that thang? what about a cut out of iron sheet, about 3/16" or 1/4" thich and cut it out with an acetylene torch to match the shape of the bellhousing and starter, have it stick out about 1/2 inch from the contour of the bellhousing, wngine, and shape a flat srip of steel around it (like a half "i" beam) to give the whole rig rigidity. would it be a CIS project? what did the motor come out of?

Noah, is that a 2wd 5spd behind that thang? what about a cut out of iron sheet, about 3/16" or 1/4" thich and cut it out with an acetylene torch to match the shape of the bellhousing and starter, have it stick out about 1/2 inch from the contour of the bellhousing, wngine, and shape a flat srip of steel around it (like a half "i" beam) to give the whole rig rigidity. would it be a CIS project? what did the motor come out of?

the haynes manual can be funny to read, and if you go by the pictures alone it will throw you off.

my 83 gl wagon was a 2wd 5spd. but now it has a 4wd rear end, and a 5spd 4wd form a later body style. so no mater what you got you can make any ol' subaru a 4wd if you want to get that into it!

do you mean will they work the same, or one over the other as an upgrade? i have been told that they are bosch n-type. some nissan used a bigger fersion of the ones on subarus. its kind of like your subaru version of the brown fuel injector found in ford svt as un upgrade for ford turbos i would think that the mpfi and turbo would have the same injector, and the computer will determine the flow rate , and that would depend on the differences between mpfi's and turbos programming

duct tape will waether and dry out, and it will peel away after a while, leaving a dry, flaky cheesecloth pattern. if taping up the gauge, tape real good around the face where it meets the bezel, and any electricla fittings. use electrical black tape. if there is a light bulb (as in the wal-mart temp gauge) put grease on the bulb'd contacts, and shoot some clear silicone in there to keep water out. maybe tape up the sensor tube . suppose you could mount it on the cowl (ea81). maybe you could make a hole, for the bezel to mount on the firewall below, and have the it stick out at you from an angle that would flow with the car rather than have it sticking straight out. on an ea82 body you could easily mount id down between the wiper blades, and tick it under the hood. would have a good chance of clearing it, because its a subaru.

if you dont have emissions regulations in your state, go with a custom job(no cat) tell the muffler shop its an "off-road" application

if the starter is on the side, then you have the ea81 style bellhousing,. since the starter is on the trans, and if you have only the motor for reference, if there is a "hump" on the back of the motor, then thet is the ea71(1600cc) bellhousing. what you need is the one off an ea81, or later model ea71 that has the ea81 bellhousing. the ea81 bellhousing allows you to use ant trans that has the starter on the side. the clutches and flywheels you use will depend on what trans you use. the easiest way to go about is use the clutch and flywheel from the transmission that you will be using...............

tap on it lightly to try and rotate it one way otr the other, back and forth, and pull up on it as it turns to try an d free it. is just a snug fit

had it on the sedan. worked pretty good, had good high end. although a cross pipe would help. myoss feece has dual pipes with a x crossover, and cherry bombs towards the rear. idles quiet, but gets loud on the throttle, turns lots of heads. its on an spfi, somewhat falls flat, but it originally was on ro-neece's carbbed wagon. you would want to have straight pipe to about the moddle of the car, or where the y pipe ends, cherry bombs, and then more pipe. use 1 3/4 pipe off the heads, and the the 'bomb, and then 2" pipe after the bomb. the pipe before the bomb will do the scavenging, and the pipe after the bomb really doesnt matter, but fatter pipe will give you better top end and lower sound go the cheap route and use the stock y pipe, which will do all your scavenging, then a 'bomb, and then 2" pipe the rest of the way back. makes good torque for a straight pipe

the one time i tried to put a motor and trans in together, i had to hald disassemble the rear part of the frame, and get the car WAY up in the air. here is what i would do. pull the motors first out the top. then pull the transmissions out the bottom. then install the trans' in through the bottom. place a jack under the trans and raise it up past the front crossmember, so the motor will line up with it. now, is the 85 an ea82? it will be different, but it will work. the trans id not going to fit exactly under the tunnel, not without beating the tunnel out, cutting away at it, or stacking washers between the crossmember and the body the ea82 motor will fit, but take out the distributor so you can get it in past the brake master cylinder. if you leave the 4spd trans in, and use the ea82, use the ea82 flywheel and pressure plate and the 4spd's clutch disc. give a few more specifics about both vehicles, and what motor, trans they have, and we can be more specific about procedure and which parts to mix. it can be done either way, but we need to know more specifics to tell you how to do it!

my carb is acting up in the same manner. i know of an 86 brat that does the same. maybe the accelerator pump dried out, and it hesitates when you give her a stab, but it would catch back up if that were the case. sitting around will dry out a carb and gunk it up, ruin the gaskets....

i believe the bellhousing on the motor is the same either way. its the fact you are putting an ea81 against an ea82 tranny and its torque converter.

josh, i already got the alternator and mounting hardware, the timing belts, the cam seals, the y pipe, and intake gaskets. but zook's ride is spfi! that wont do no good to replace a carburetor, unless i want to gut the wiring for it, and spfi wont plug into the existing mpfi turbo harness! it sucks that now i got the oil spots to quit appearing all over the driveway, the damn carb dooks out on me! i tried carb cleaner, had the top off again, but it still runs like it does. oh, well, it runs good enough for around town, having to tweak the gas pedal as i go, but at least it runs ok. once my running around is done, i will try the carb off the glf. i had plans to take the car to michigan this sunday

i just replaced the timing belts, cams and oil pump seals, and re gooped a cam cover. now that i got the oil leaks to stop the carb is falling flat at rpm, or at full throttle. it started acting up before, acted like fuel starfvation, would idle, but fall flat above 2000 rpm. i took the top of the carb out and pulled any jets i can get to to poke them out with a needle. the carb was orignally from an 87 wagon..... it has 2 barrels, the fron t one i can see gas coming from, the one i cleaned. but the one towards the back, is that the secondary? i can open the throttle and it barely opens at full throttle, no gas comes out. driving it today, if i am gentle on the gas, it does ok, but if i start off heavy into the gas, she falls flat until i start to back out the throttle. what should i be looking fore to fix my problem. i just replaced the fuel filter. i believe this is due to my high pressure to carbureted fuel pump swap, having a rusted steel fuel line break off when i did, and replacing that section of line with rubber hose. what would be the first thing to clog? when i had it apart there were two brass fittings in the float chamber, but i couldnt get them out with the tools i had at the time, and without removing the alternator bracket. suppose those are clogged?