MilesFox

an ea82 spfi y pipe would be really nice. have to plug the 02 sendoe hole, (or just use a dead o2 sensor) it would still fit your rear half of the exhaust system, and match the exhaust mount on the tranny

is the car loud or just loud inside? lengthening the pipe to the back near the axle will make a world of difference on inside exhaust noise. fatter after-muffler pipes will help tone things doen

i t0wed a 2 axle trailer with a dead soob and no brakes! tow dolly with a soob. both with ea81 power 2wd 5spd, used 4th gear a lot. i tore a hitch off a wagon, bolts to the floor and the bumper. towing a small boat should be no problem. actually, its the # of axles you are towing is what will drag you down. tow another soob with a rope with no problems too

rguyver put a turbo plenum on an spfi fitted to an ea81. i made a mock up, i got the turbo and pipe to fit the motor, the manifold on the motor, but connecting the turbo plenum to the spfi intake will need some clever mixing and matching of parts. something about saab parts will fit, or maybe chopping up existing subaru parts, if you put some stuff on sideways or backwards, it seems like it would want to fit. one other thing. obviously you should know that you will have top modify the spfi distributor to fit the ea81. you will have to grind away at the distributor housing and cut off a tab to fit around the power steering(ea82 if you use it) mount. the little dist mounting piece(the one that fits around the hole) can be turned upside down, and the distributor has to be mouned 180 degrees backwards, but have the rotor oriented correctly, so the vacuum clears the water neck/thermostat housing on the spfi manifold. that will work if you connect all the plug wires 180 from their respective terminals, so the rotor is in the same relation to the plug wires like they should be. the egr valve was removed to allow the use of the ea82 pitch bar mount(on my mock-up) you might be able to get away eith the egr with the ea81 pitch bar mount, but consider possible interference are you putting spfi in an ea81 car, or an ea81 motor in an spfi ea82 car?

what about a smaller pilley so the alt spins faster? as mlong as it doesnt spin too fast at higher rpm

jiggle the wheel if it is hung up on the "lock" position

yeah, the spfi will bolt up. i think the egr will need to be removed, and if you use the ea81 power steering, some of the bracket will need ground away. use the ea82- water pipe along the top of the motor

my motor was originally in front of a 2wd 5 spd. that explains my grinding. so if yours was automatic, you wont have that issue. (just like an ea81T will fit an ea82 flywheel without grinding) before you put it tohether. use the torque converter from you ea82 trans, since you have to put it on the tranny before you bolt the enginde you can tighten the flexxplate to torque converter bolts through the timing window. an off-set 12mm wrench works very well (auto-zone "great neck" 12-14mm offset combo wrench)

can you run lp gas for a turbo?

on my sedan i loosened the motor mount bolts from the motor, so the mounts would jiggle. then i lined them up with the holes on the crossmembeer, and then lowered the motor. you can tighen teh bolts back up, you can get to them from unerneath(driver side), and on top(passenger) the ea82 pitch bar mount will swap over. also the one bellhousing bolt from the ea81 bellhousing is slightly longer than the ea82 bolts, but thats ok you can use the ea82 water pump to match the 88's radiator and hose, but you will need to make a bracket to mount it to. but the water pump pulley will be offset. you can but washers or the fan nuts behind it, and go fanless, it will line it up with the crank. you can get the ea82 alternator/ac bracket to fit in there, but the alt will be offset, and you would need the ac-less style pulley for ea82. the 88 y pipw will bolt up to the 1600

turn down the heater fan or turn off the headlights when it is idling.. check for voltage, do an amps draw test when the car is off, then whenits on. kowing a specific reading, you will determine if there is a short or a parasitic draw on various circuits

there is a narrow vacuum hose coming from the passenger firewall. it plugs into the plastic T from the manifold and transmission. does your defrost work. this is what controls the vent selectors. the body end will go to a small plastic reducer on a fatter hose off the strut tower

you could put a board under the motor and a jackstand to hold the motor up, and then drop the whole crossmember,steering,lower control arm. have the strus/knuckle/axle out in one piece before deopping crossmember. unbolt the strut rods from the swaybar, and from the trans crossmember atatchment points. the parking brakes can be disconnected, there will be enough slack on them and make/relocate a mount or two disconnect the front rbber line with the steel line on the car when pulling a strut assembly

nice idea austin!. just shove a spark plug there and weld it on the tube. it worked for me.(ea82) i got a pic on http://photos.yahoo.com/milesfox you could get a line wrench, its like a box end with a cut-out to let the pipe go through.

bosch platinums didnt foul out ad bad in the pinto. but the extra +4 or split fire is just a gimmick, but platinums work just as good as any. i usually run them, i would say they are best suited for high energy ign setups

could be a loose axle nut, and the rotor is huttin g the outerh caliper frame, the caliper frame will keep the rotor in place. does the car jerk the wheel or does the tires chirp when downshifting? if so, that is what an axle will sound like before breaking in the middle of wisconsin check the front diff oil. use 90 wt gear oill

true dat!

what is that guy doing with the turbo motors? does he throw them away?. its not that the turbo is bad, he probably throws a carb in it rather than do a head gasket or timing belt. i'll bet the parts are still good. this guy must not know anything about turbos/heag gaskets. try to see what is wrong with it. but if it alrady rund doesnt mean that it id going bad. if you know about a few turbo detaild, and if the motor is in good shape, it could last a while with things like new oil pump seals and cam seals, timing belts, and water pump. any soob that goes bad is over lack of subaru specific maintenence you would have to get the wholw wiring harness. its best to get all that you need from the same ar, if not get the whole donor car. its not exactly a direct bolt on but if you ket to know your subaru it can be done!

check the timing belt marks, and ign marks. see if you get spark at the coil

from what i know they work the same. i will swap one from an spfi into the gl-10 i just got. something like its even the same(design) as the pump in WRX

how would an ea82 fit to it, are the holes in same orientation?, maybe you can drll them out, much the same as the ea81 flywheel drilled out to fit an ea82 like the one in tom's brat and myoss feece's glf hardtop would an xt-6 flywheel be a good choice?

anyone with a welder!

Noah, is that a 2wd 5spd behind that thang? what about a cut out of iron sheet, about 3/16" or 1/4" thich and cut it out with an acetylene torch to match the shape of the bellhousing and starter, have it stick out about 1/2 inch from the contour of the bellhousing, wngine, and shape a flat srip of steel around it (like a half "i" beam) to give the whole rig rigidity. would it be a CIS project? what did the motor come out of?

Noah, is that a 2wd 5spd behind that thang? what about a cut out of iron sheet, about 3/16" or 1/4" thich and cut it out with an acetylene torch to match the shape of the bellhousing and starter, have it stick out about 1/2 inch from the contour of the bellhousing, wngine, and shape a flat srip of steel around it (like a half "i" beam) to give the whole rig rigidity. would it be a CIS project? what did the motor come out of?

the haynes manual can be funny to read, and if you go by the pictures alone it will throw you off.