MilesFox

try running the engine. the gauge is notoriously inaccurate, and usually rides near the zero at idle as normal operation. Generally it is highest at cold startup or at highway cruising speed, about 35-45 psi according to the gauge.

if you really want to prevent rust, you will want to remove fenders and mudflaps to treat those pesky areas.

MY 94 legacy gt wagon had the larger unit. it had plug type ends that fit over the rubber lines on the pump body. If i remember right, it had eyelets for the electrical terminals.

If the engine seems hard to turn by hand, remove the plugs and soak some ATF or marvels oil in the cylinders. Perhaps pull out the seats and pull up the carpets to let the cabin dry out, and the harnesses underneath it. Be sure to check the trans fluids and the diif fluids for water contamination. Any corrosion to suffer will be suffering after the vehicle was extracted and exposed to air. Unplug any harnesses you suspect have gotten wet and spray wd40 in them to flush out or displace any moisture. Remove the airbox and the washer jug to get at the spark plugs. Reminds me of my days of "baja'n". My mother wasn't too thrilled about corncobs lodged in the subframe of her 94 grand am.

The belt will ride closer to the inner edge of the cam pulleys. The belt is aligned by both the crank sprocket and the tensioner pulleys. Consider this normal operation. As far as fuel economy goes, i assume the car is spfi? (what year and model please) What is your distributor timing set to? The green test plugs should be plugged in to set initial (static timing), and unplugged for normal operation (dynamic timing)

Stop completely and try it. Sounds like there is a difference in rotation between the front and rear. You will get a grind if you try to engage it during wheelspin. Pehaps there is a broken rear axle. It can be engaged manually by pulling on the cable that comes from the vacuum diaphragm on the side of the trans. I believe moving it forward is 4wd.

Remove the 10mm bolt that secures the shield. Remove the wheel for best access. Be careful as the 10mm bolts are most likely to break off. Ditch the cover, clean the fill tube with a wire brush, and shoot it with spray paint. Secure the guard with a hose clamp should you wish to re-install it.

There is a solenoid onthe mount holding up that black box (charcoal canister) Check the electrical plug there, and the other end of it under the seat where it passes through the body. Check the fuel fill pipe for rust-through. Remove the plastic shileld to see, and debris accumulate there harboring rust.

I was shopping for exhaust cuplers and by looking at them, thought that maybe they could be used to adapt hoses. But the engine is so close to the radiator that it may be difficult to make room for it all without having kinks. you might get lucky and find a flex hose that has different diameters on either end.

instead of a paper clip ,you can take a standard fuse, and twist the one terminal perpendicular, and just plug it onto the harness connector.

You may as well so you know that the whole front end is nice and tight and new. consider changing the boots as failed boots lead to failed parts.

I have a dual row ea82 radiator with an ej222 in an 86 gl coupe. What i did was slip the ej hoses over the ea hoses, and clamped them. This adapted the radiator hose size to the engine hose size, since the ej is bigger. IT fits like a tension fit, and clamps over the joints work good. I don't have any leaks. I could have done one better and applied rubber cement to the couplings. i just spliced together used stock hoses for either end. the bottom hose will be tricky to fit without a kink

The 7 flashes is an identity code (i.e, spfi, at, usa, 49 state) Based on your symptoms, i would guess either the MAF is fouled, dirty, bad, or has a poor connnection, or any of the intake piping or hoses going to it are loise or have a leak. Maybe the idle air control valve is not opening. You will want to test the resistance to the coolant temp sensor to check it. See if the car behaves differently withthe CTS unplugged. See what will happen if you unplug the MAF and start the car. any old timer knowledge with old chevys and carburetors need not apply with the subaru, as it will lead you to the wrong conclusions.

Which end? the inside end is a ball and socket, which can become loose if the seal was compromised and water got in/grease got out. IF there is play, consider replacing the inner ends.

He probably bled the fronts only, but the rear will need bled also as this is a dual-diagonal setup. the front and opposite side rear wheels are on the same line, and vise versa for the other line. If the car is a manual transmission, hold in the clutch while pumping so fluid moves through the hill holder.

You can do that.If you want to wire in a switch, you could leave that permanently after replacing the thermoswitch. This way you can override it and make it come on when you want, but you can't accidentally leave it off. The thermoswitch grounds the fan circuit, which is hot all the time. if your car is an ea81, there is a ground wire at the top center of the radiator to the hood latch. make sure that is present

i used an xt6 frame with mine, slotting was necessary. i had to relocate the holes for the body side as well. i had to slot the motor mount holes pretty good.

inspect fro broken tming belt, or teeth missing on the timing belt. The belt drives the cam, which drives the distributor. I'll be there are teeth missing on the belt near the crank snout.

you will have to slot the holes on the gl frame, make them about 3 holes wide, so that the stud on the ej motor fits. the ej mount is just wider than the GL. this can be done with a grinder, or drilling a 2nd hole on the outsides of the existing holes and reaming out the middle.

Put the rear door back on, weld it shut, and make a metal window that rolls up and down. Up for panel wagon, down so you can see over your shoulder. This is an idea that i have dreamed of for a long time.

Don't speed. Save your money. Lifting applies to the advice given for 1990-1999 models

I have gone so far as to wedge a bar in the holes on the pulleys to lever against with a breaker bar. I do this with the belt on so it holds the pulley. You can use the old belt as a strap to hold the pulley I use an electric impact driver (engine out of the car). Just line up the marks and install the belt. DO NOT USE THE ARROWS. The cam sprockets are left-right specific, and the cam sensr side has relictors on the back. There is a single hash mark on the cam pulleys, align them 12 o'clock and with the lines on the belt(if they re there) the belt is oriented for clockwise rotation, as the tooth count is different from the center for each side. The center sprocket will be aligned to the tab with the hash mark to the dot on the crank sensor mount. The woodruff key will be at 6 o'clock position.

the xt6 is a 2.7 liter, 6 cylinder. hence the 6. just order the clutch kit for that model, try 199o year, the xt6 and the gl share the same platform, withthe '6 having a stronger pressure plate, same clutch disc, the xt6 uses a lighter flywheel, but it bolts on the same ans any gl/loyale and will use either disc or pressure plate.

I drove 60 miles on 10 deg weather and had nice warm heat. Blocking the radiator shouldnt be necessary unless it's like -30 degrees. Perhaps the thermostat is failed open, missing, or the heater core is plugged. 30 degrees is not cold. Wear wool socks.

If it was windy with powdery snow coming down, it will get anywhere that air an flow. Blame it on the weather. That snow would have accumulated while the car was parked.