MilesFox

my 83 gl wagon was a 2wd 5spd. but now it has a 4wd rear end, and a 5spd 4wd form a later body style. so no mater what you got you can make any ol' subaru a 4wd if you want to get that into it!

do you mean will they work the same, or one over the other as an upgrade? i have been told that they are bosch n-type. some nissan used a bigger fersion of the ones on subarus. its kind of like your subaru version of the brown fuel injector found in ford svt as un upgrade for ford turbos i would think that the mpfi and turbo would have the same injector, and the computer will determine the flow rate , and that would depend on the differences between mpfi's and turbos programming

duct tape will waether and dry out, and it will peel away after a while, leaving a dry, flaky cheesecloth pattern. if taping up the gauge, tape real good around the face where it meets the bezel, and any electricla fittings. use electrical black tape. if there is a light bulb (as in the wal-mart temp gauge) put grease on the bulb'd contacts, and shoot some clear silicone in there to keep water out. maybe tape up the sensor tube . suppose you could mount it on the cowl (ea81). maybe you could make a hole, for the bezel to mount on the firewall below, and have the it stick out at you from an angle that would flow with the car rather than have it sticking straight out. on an ea82 body you could easily mount id down between the wiper blades, and tick it under the hood. would have a good chance of clearing it, because its a subaru.

if you dont have emissions regulations in your state, go with a custom job(no cat) tell the muffler shop its an "off-road" application

if the starter is on the side, then you have the ea81 style bellhousing,. since the starter is on the trans, and if you have only the motor for reference, if there is a "hump" on the back of the motor, then thet is the ea71(1600cc) bellhousing. what you need is the one off an ea81, or later model ea71 that has the ea81 bellhousing. the ea81 bellhousing allows you to use ant trans that has the starter on the side. the clutches and flywheels you use will depend on what trans you use. the easiest way to go about is use the clutch and flywheel from the transmission that you will be using...............

tap on it lightly to try and rotate it one way otr the other, back and forth, and pull up on it as it turns to try an d free it. is just a snug fit

had it on the sedan. worked pretty good, had good high end. although a cross pipe would help. myoss feece has dual pipes with a x crossover, and cherry bombs towards the rear. idles quiet, but gets loud on the throttle, turns lots of heads. its on an spfi, somewhat falls flat, but it originally was on ro-neece's carbbed wagon. you would want to have straight pipe to about the moddle of the car, or where the y pipe ends, cherry bombs, and then more pipe. use 1 3/4 pipe off the heads, and the the 'bomb, and then 2" pipe after the bomb. the pipe before the bomb will do the scavenging, and the pipe after the bomb really doesnt matter, but fatter pipe will give you better top end and lower sound go the cheap route and use the stock y pipe, which will do all your scavenging, then a 'bomb, and then 2" pipe the rest of the way back. makes good torque for a straight pipe

the one time i tried to put a motor and trans in together, i had to hald disassemble the rear part of the frame, and get the car WAY up in the air. here is what i would do. pull the motors first out the top. then pull the transmissions out the bottom. then install the trans' in through the bottom. place a jack under the trans and raise it up past the front crossmember, so the motor will line up with it. now, is the 85 an ea82? it will be different, but it will work. the trans id not going to fit exactly under the tunnel, not without beating the tunnel out, cutting away at it, or stacking washers between the crossmember and the body the ea82 motor will fit, but take out the distributor so you can get it in past the brake master cylinder. if you leave the 4spd trans in, and use the ea82, use the ea82 flywheel and pressure plate and the 4spd's clutch disc. give a few more specifics about both vehicles, and what motor, trans they have, and we can be more specific about procedure and which parts to mix. it can be done either way, but we need to know more specifics to tell you how to do it!

my carb is acting up in the same manner. i know of an 86 brat that does the same. maybe the accelerator pump dried out, and it hesitates when you give her a stab, but it would catch back up if that were the case. sitting around will dry out a carb and gunk it up, ruin the gaskets....

i believe the bellhousing on the motor is the same either way. its the fact you are putting an ea81 against an ea82 tranny and its torque converter.

josh, i already got the alternator and mounting hardware, the timing belts, the cam seals, the y pipe, and intake gaskets. but zook's ride is spfi! that wont do no good to replace a carburetor, unless i want to gut the wiring for it, and spfi wont plug into the existing mpfi turbo harness! it sucks that now i got the oil spots to quit appearing all over the driveway, the damn carb dooks out on me! i tried carb cleaner, had the top off again, but it still runs like it does. oh, well, it runs good enough for around town, having to tweak the gas pedal as i go, but at least it runs ok. once my running around is done, i will try the carb off the glf. i had plans to take the car to michigan this sunday

i just replaced the timing belts, cams and oil pump seals, and re gooped a cam cover. now that i got the oil leaks to stop the carb is falling flat at rpm, or at full throttle. it started acting up before, acted like fuel starfvation, would idle, but fall flat above 2000 rpm. i took the top of the carb out and pulled any jets i can get to to poke them out with a needle. the carb was orignally from an 87 wagon..... it has 2 barrels, the fron t one i can see gas coming from, the one i cleaned. but the one towards the back, is that the secondary? i can open the throttle and it barely opens at full throttle, no gas comes out. driving it today, if i am gentle on the gas, it does ok, but if i start off heavy into the gas, she falls flat until i start to back out the throttle. what should i be looking fore to fix my problem. i just replaced the fuel filter. i believe this is due to my high pressure to carbureted fuel pump swap, having a rusted steel fuel line break off when i did, and replacing that section of line with rubber hose. what would be the first thing to clog? when i had it apart there were two brass fittings in the float chamber, but i couldnt get them out with the tools i had at the time, and without removing the alternator bracket. suppose those are clogged?

after pulling a cam cover on my ride last night, the ribs i mentioned should be like this: SUBARU ---------- . ______ where the word SUBARU should be above the 2 ribs. hope i didn't throw you off, but you got it started anyway!

when i put a 4wd tank in the trashwagon, it was about 3 inches shorter (front to back) than the original, so i had to make a mount to tie it in to the wagon's bolt holes. and it came out of another wagon

i used the ea82 torque converter, ther motor came from a MT supposedly 2wd 5spd between ea81 and ea82 are the same. i dont know about the torque converters though. you could test fit, and compare pump shafts. i do know that the 4wd torque converters are different than the 2wd's. hopefully the torque converters will match up, the only difference they might have is how they fit in one bellhousing or the other. either way you might go, or modifying is the only way, the mod is relatively somple, and shouldnt compromise structural integrity, if you grind, fit grind, fit, and only grind away what's necessary. i suggest removing the bellhousing from the back of the motor to mod it. once you do that and try to fit things, you will see what i mean, its pretty mich a step up from a flywheel mod for ea82 trannies. the spacer between the crank and the flexplate is to keep the flexplate from rubbing against the back of the motor. everything will bolt up the same, the width of the spacer wont throw it out of fitment spacs

i did the 6-lug chevy rim drill out. if you can ever make it to a Subaru Alliance meet you can see them on the RX! anyway, that is one example..................

man, why cant they have these things around here (indiana) the best you can find here is some v8 circle track...not my bag!

check to see if all the drain plugs are in place. you can see them from under the car, about 20mm wide, round rubber plugs.

the timing belt doesnt have to do with valve clatter, but since you will have the front apart, moght as well take off the cam housings and clean up ypour lifters while you're there!

yeah, i found out this trick last weekend when putting an spfi motor with a carb down into a turbo wagon. required fuel pump swaps and such, but i got it to work. anything i tell to do is from my own two dirty hands and however it wirks for me. from timing belts to axles, to 2-door wagons!

there is a new guy on the board in white cload, not too far from grand rapids. biged wa s his name with an 86 brat. see what you can do. i know you just got home, so you need to do some cathing up with your end first!

as far as i know the mounts between cars/trannies should be the same. if the torque converter fits from one to the other, do that. if not, the ea81 bellhousing will have to be modified to acommodate the ea82 flex plate. you will have to grind awat the bottom corners, and some of the meat off the bottom that the studs go through, but not enough to waer through. if you have both flexplates, use the spacer off the other one befroe the flexplate, and then the other spacer after that crank -------- spacer _____________ flexplate --------- spacer torque converter this is how i got an ea81 engine to fit against the 2wd auto trans of an ea82 car. hope that answers ya, it worked for me, and i am the only one to do it as far as i know..........................

you will have to remove all the plastig to get the oil pump off. when tightening oil, water pump bolts, be careful. once the bolt feels tight ITS TIGHT, dont over torque them , you can strip the alumonum threads. but as ;long as youre not he-man on the wrench thats nothing to worrt about. \ a 7/8 socket or offset (bent ) wrench will fit on the crank pulley. if its a 5 spd put it in 5th gear with the parking brake on, if its an auto, wedce a screwdriver between the flexplate and torque converter thru the timing window. before removing the belts, loosen the 12mm bolts on the tensioner pulleys, move them out of the way as far a s possible(spring loaded) and tighten them back down. this will make belt install much easier when installing belts, get the marks lined up and slip the belts on. now you dont need a special tool here, do like this: once the belt is on, grab the cam sprocket by chand and turn it so the top side of the belt, the one straight off the crank, tightens up, doesnt take much effort. after that, release the tensioner pulley and you are set!

pop the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns. maybe the starter went out in a vain attempt to start the car just after it quit (cranking on it for too long)

looks like youre real close to grand rapids. i believe Noah 88 dl lives there, he is back from seattle area. happy subaru!