MilesFox

i am running a stripped carb off an 87 on an spfi block. she will stall out right after starup, but if i let her warm up for a minute, she idles, and idles as long as she runs. starting is the only trouble since you may disable the choke or whatever, but she should run the same as normal. mine runs without problem, but i am getting a fuel starvation from a fuel pump swap i need to figure out yet (carb on spfi block in turbo car) there is a vacuum manifold that can be unbolted from the intake manifold itself, but you would have to remove the intake from the motor. if you want to strip it down, and depending on your mechanical ability, i would recomment removing the whole intake. keep in mind to not let the carb get turned upside-down, as the float my stick open.

here is what i have found with my experiences with the ea82: the keyway on the crank snout is in line with the 3 marks on the flywheel use the keyway to do the belts, driver side first, with the dot up. the haynes book says to rotate the crank 360 deg, so the dot is down, and install the passenger side dot up. what that does is release the bind off the pass. side cam. you can skip that procedure, after lining up the driver side cam dot up, turn the passenger cam dot down. but you will feel the tension of valve springs on the cam, it will have a "balance point", where the cam may want to flip one way or the other, but i sometimes do it like that. just make sure you have good grip on the cam pulley(its easier when eliminating the plastic covers to expose cam pulley now that the belts are on, now time for ignition here is a technique i learned just last weekend when installing a distributor while comparing engines for ignition timing, when the motor is at 0 deg TDC, the passenger side cam pulley will have the dot in line with the top rib on the cam cover __________ . SUBARU __________ where the period represents the cam dot. I had trouble determining compression or exhaust stroke, so i liiked at a motor that was still in another car, lined up the marks, and lookes to see where the cam sprocket was. the rotor on the distributor will be just to the right of the screw/clip on the distributor side that faces the firewall try this and report back with your results. it worked for me, should work for no flywheel reference

its all going to depend on how far you drop the rear diff. drop the rear diff as much as needed to clear the tank, and mount the lift according to it, with cv angles in mind. suppose tou lift 3 inches, but drop the diff 4 inches. i read that 4 inches will clear. TrashWagon 5 had 6 inches once, and it had LOTS of room, enough for an auxilliary gas tank inder the seats

there's one in trempeauleau (sp?) just north of onalaska/lacrosse, wisconsin. had to pick an axle on my way out west. the guy may be pricey, but we talked him down to 40 from 60 bucks. he has a few 5spd d/r's, and an xt-6 there's a place in bryan ohio, that has a few soobs, and a hatch, and a wrecked brat. the brat has no motor, but the driveline is there, and the hatch is missing the front axles. most of the ea82's there are 2wd 5spds, one still has a motor, labelled bad,(bet its a timing belt) also a few of us guys Tom in michigan, and jim in ohio, plus myself, collectively have a good stash of parts

what year? is the starter on top or the side? if you have the top mount starter, you can change out the bellhousing on the motor from an ea81, it will bolt up the same, thus allowing the use of 4 and 5spd 4x4 tranny. the later 80's hatch has an ea71 with ea81 style bellhousing, and valves in the head.

so you're back in michigan now? how long you stickin' around? Tomrhere is in Jackson, and he and i are meeting in coldwater on the 31st. maybe you can get in on it. i got some timing cover pieces if you need anyhing. shoot me an email and i'll let you in on my TURBO wagon (TrashWagon 6)

couldnt you trim the bushing down slightly? doing that AND drilling out the bolt hole is how i fit ea82 rear trailing arms in ea81's

to pull the radiator, taking off the clutch fan is recommended. you may have to remove a small metal shroud from the radiator, if it is there. on the shaft of the fan, there is a flat spot that you can get on it with 7/8" wrench, use a 10mm to take off the 4 nuts that hold on the fan. they might be hard to break free, or may want to round off, make sure you have hood tools. an S*K brand box-end wrench fits perfectly. there is a drain plug on the bottom driver side of the radiator. on the front just above the grille, there are 2 12mm bolts that screw into the top of the radiator, take them out. unclup the electric fan wires. you can pull the radiator with the electric fan still there, ore you can remove it first. your choice. as far as the shaking around goes, like going up hills, it may have to do with something electrical. sounds like it could be timing, a knock sensor. its a good place to start for diagnostics.....

are people stealing your ride because it's a SUBARU, or just a car? i park mine outside with the windows down and the key in the ign, but who would want to steal a trashwagon!

Got her runnin' last night! played hell with the timing, wasnt sure if i was on exhaust or compression stroke.... i had to pull the cap off myoss feece's ride to compare. got her to start, ran rough. come to find out thet the spark plugs on the driver's side were shot. i replaced the plugs with oned off the turbo heads. so far i ahve NO MONEY spent in gerring it to run. I had jim wood's spfi motor, the carb off my sedan, alternator pbracketry off zanny dook's, and odd bolts i had laying around. i had myoss feece drive out to a county road. it started to act up, was having fuel issues. i checked out the pump, it turned put the way i had it mounted, it kinked the fuel inlet line. i re-mounted it and went down some tristies. the gl-10 swaybars corner excellently, the power steering works good, and the pushbutton 4wd works. although single range, and 3.700 gears, it is very convenient to drive, swithching in and out of 4wd on the fly between gravel and paved roads. the taller gearing keeps it in the fatter part of the power curve, and it pulls like the RX, or a 2wd 5 spd. you can get it going without winding it out. the tach on the digital dash reads the rpm still, but i am going to put a mechanical water and oil gauge, since the connections for those are part of the mpfi harness. i need to re-route the vacuum lines for the heater and cruese control, since the guy who puled the motor cut them off. the clutch was questionable when i put it together, the pressure plate was glazed and had heat marks. she slipped a little, but it seems to grab a little better with a few miles behind her. it will last enough until i get a new clutch and the turbo motor put back together. the rear brake line leaks, some of it has been replaced before me, but the right rear leaks just above the fuel pump. the brakes work good enough to stop, with the front right locking up on gravel, but i can use the parking brake to help out the brake pedal when needed. provided I have enough money, i am going to invest in a few cans of spray paint to make it a reckognizeable TRASHWAGON 6! josh is offering to buy the car from me, offering to pay for my licence back, but i said i want to finish the car before i let it go. so i will try my best to stay out from behind the wheel, but i couldnt help myself and i drove it across town today. but i know at least when and when not to drive in this town, and only drive to at the beginning of the day, and from at the end of the day. i can holler at a licensed driver if i need to go somewhere. my new job is going to fill my pockets well, so i will have my license before too long. so i have been back home for exactly 2 weeks, i got me a job, and another trashwagon. so now i am better off than before i left! quick recovery just like that!

4 or 6 cyl? the 6 cyl uses a 90 amp aly, it mounts differently than ea82. if its a 4 cyl, it should fit the same, as far as i know

it sure is a gl-10 sunroof, digital dash, plush seats with height adjustment, and trip computer. it has a sedan door with the wrong glass and a chrome door handle, and its missing the little rubber piece on the corner. i got more work done. myoss feece connecte the heater hose while i was at work. he also connected that sucker hose from the egr to the cam cover, but it doesnt go there. i am going to have to find a valve or plug it off. (its plugged off on the trashwagon 5) i got the hitachi style alternator/ac bracket with no ac pump. I had to borrow that from zanny dook's wagon because whoever pulled the turbo motor really didnt know what he was doing(the throttle cable was connected to the bracket that holds the pitch bar to the motor, which was still connected to it) and it was missing the mounting hardware for the bracketry. all thats left to do is put on starter(removed it to tighten pressure plate bolts) ignition wires add oil and filter radiator a fer vacuup lines swap to a carby fuel pump. the coil will still work as it is, and everything else should work(tach, water and oil gauges) i may have to hardwire the fuel pum, if so, to the + coil terminal. i am confident i will have this car running tonight, if i can find some gas!

got glass piece too. so which way will you be coming through indiana?

let me remind anyone that cinder blocks are not good substitutes for jack stands. i have heard stories from my instructor at Ivy Tech that they had collapsed on someone, another story a guy jacked up his ride on blocks, and went in for a moment, and came out to see his ride on the ground. when using a hoist, lower the motor close to the ground when moving it about

mine was originally 2wd 5spd also. i noticed that all manual tranny crossmembers are the same, even ea82's the same as ea81's. the washers work good? as long as there is enough thread left to hold the bolts in. so you dropped the front crossmember too. thats like a half inch lift. good going!

that last scene would make a good substitute for those generic calvin stickers!

you would want some shocks for control. get some that extend longer. you will wear out your torsion bar by over flexing witn no shoxks. but here is something fun to do before you put them backj in: get a little speed, start tapping the brake to get the rump roast end bouncy, timing each stab of the brake as the car bounces up, and get the wheels to come about a foot off the ground. makes for great showing off!

i have found that the water pump, intake manifold, and engine bellhousing all interchange. same thing goes for the distributor, and any mounting brackets, ancilliaries, and such. even an ea82 water pump will fit, but the pulley will be offset from the rest but the overall external demensions are the same. hope that answers ya!

the $10 gauge at wal-mart comes with several fittings, one of which fits on a subaru

i suppose you could beat the tunnel out with a hammer, provided you have enough room to swing it around under there. i rtued that myself, but ended up cutting it out. you gould get an angle grinder and cut away a smakk hole just enough to let the top corner of the square part come through , and for the 4wd mechanism. what if you could put a few washers on the cross member bolts to drop it down a little? the only thing on the tranny tunnel is a bracket that holds the ducting for the heater vents, and it could be bent around a little, or re-mounted, but i highly doubt anything will be distorted from a beat-down

I knew someone would catch onto the black door handles. And we have a winner! General Disorder wins the "Miles Fox Road-Trip Survival Package" comes complete with a 5 gallon can, a spare axle, and a get out of jail free card! anyway, I got the spfi motor in, with a carb intake on it. I had to borrow an intake gasket off zanny dook's wagon, as well as the y pipe, and still yet the radiator. I got the dist off myoss feece's glf with the ea82, and the fuel pump. all the heavy duty work is done now, so its all wires and hoses from here on, hope to have the car driveable by thrusday night for some off-roading on some unexplored land

i got my fan connected to the same pink connector. once i had a fuel pump there. but if you turn the key off, it will keep runnung until you break the circuit. in the case with the fan, the car will run for 2 seconds until the fan stops rotating. i have also connected the fuel pump to the positive coil terminal, comes on and off with the key.

if any one wants to pull a miles fox, they can come and shoot me a visit! i am along us6 in butler, IN. I have a screen if you need it, and so do my buddies. one tip of advice from me: Make sure whoever you take with you stays with you

well, the gig is up between my buddies, someone spilled the beans about it. all they now is i got another soob, but the details will remain on the down lo. braian was right about guessing the TURBO. i swapped the fenders and front skirt with less rusty ones off a sedan. so we will have to rule out RX. but we can still make it an RX killer! eventually the turbo will find its way into TrashWagon5, if i dont go the cis route. but if i go cis, it will be on Myoss Feece's spfi sedan, because he doesnt have the turbo mpfi already like i do now. i finished vacuuming the interior, it cleaned up very well. I got my spfi motor now to start putting it down in, with a carburetor until i get the parts to fix the turbo motor. it needs a radiator, and i will need a y pipe for the spfi block. zanny dook will let me part his rad an pipe. tomrhere has an ea82 radiator in his brat, so i am thinking i can get an ea81 radiator to fit in this car. there is a dual core rad in the glf, and it isnt going anywhere soon. , so there is a possible radiaror and a fuel pump, and distributor(it has an ea82 in it) i swapped onm some better tires from zanny dooks wagon. there is a brake leak somewhere, but i can pinch it off just to get it working. i would like to go off roading this sunday on some land that has permission. and dont think i am going to be driving this thing around, thats an automatic misdemeanor in indiana, i might as well walk around with a bag of weed if that were the case. But i do have a current plate i can transfer to the car so i can park it out on the street and not have to worry about it being towed. If i do get it running before the weekend i will invite someone along, and have them drive to the off road. then i will take the wheel from there, because you cant get pulled over in the woods! now we all know its a wagon, and its turbo If no one had guessed what it is yet, here is a clue: black door handles

also look for a sludge that looks like wendy's frostee in the oil. if you have to drive the car anyway, and you are getting coolant in the oil, drain the coolant and replace it with straight water, and run with the cap off. coolant in the oil will eat away the bearings in the bottom end