MilesFox

You can re-torque the heads with a modified socket (sawed short to clear the cams), but the HG is not leaking as the ea82 and early ej22's use a composite HG and do not fail in the same manner as MLS gaskets in newer engins. I place my bets on the cam tower leaking at the 0-ring. Remove the cam tower to service it. Then the option to re-torque the heads is wide open with normal tools.

the rear strut fits the same fro any and all ea82 85-94 gl, dl, loyale, xt, rx. There is differences in length or spring based on model. I would imagine rear 05 and up impreza or 2000 and up rear struts can be modified to work, based on your goals using agx2 and coilover springs. Impreza struts can be made to work up front, but the mounting tab to knuckle neeeds to be widened. Or you can use a whole impreza/knuckle with strut, direct bolt in, but you will need to change the inner bearing seal t match the axle, or use theimprez/legacy axle (25 splines 5mt or 4eat)

What color are the wires?

There may be an air pocket in the heater core. Add coolant to the upper radiator hose. BE aware of any leaks (water pump) or coolant pushing out of the overflow. Sounds like low enough coolant for the heat to get weak, but not enough to overheat. This would explain the fans not coming on if there is an air pocket around the CTS. The CTS controls the fan, and the gauge is a separate sensor like an ea82

Must be a 98 thing sine 99 moved to a ej251 sohc, and 98 forester is the only year witht ej25d

There should be wires in the latch side that bolts to the side of the seat.. They plug in under the seats. I hope you got the latch parts form the impreza as the impreza buckle may not click into the 1st gen legacy latch.

It has always been this way, even up into 2nd gen ej soobs, and in the 200's they made a 3 pin sensor that was the ecu and temp gauge with a common ground. In subarus past, i have swapped a carb motor in place of an ea82t and the dash gauge and tacho work the same outside of any ecu input, which is just there doing nothing in this case. I do know for sure there is a difference inoil senders depending on gauge or idion light. For example, the carb motor's oil sensor in a gl-10 will make the idiot light stay on with pressure, and go off when pressure is low. So by that i would assume there to be a difference in resistance value. This i do not know for fact. With my experience with gl-10's the gauge semeed to operate in the upper range, but you would really have to be cooking to make it display red. I suppose this gives you breathing room with your engine temp so you at least become afraid and let it cool before it gets too hot to damage anything.

My 98 forester has the damper piece on the fuel line.The legacy does not.Perhaps this is the difference between mfg stateside(legacy) or japan (impreza, forester), 4S3 and JF2 vins, respectively

The ecu does not communicate withthe dash gauge. the sensor for the gauge is a single spade terminal near the thermostat. the ecu sensor is on the back of the crossover pipe under the turbo. It is possible you have the wrong sensor with the wrong resistance value. MAybe the terminal is corroded and giving different resistances.

Yes, insert a #3 phillips to install the rearmost bolts. You can also accomplish inserting a 1/4 socket extension thrut the hole, then put on the socket for a straight shot. I have seen the rubber gaskets that have metal sleeves in the holes where you can tighten them up without splitting the gasket. you may just need to make several passes torqing the bolts, turning an additional 1/4 to 1/8 turns. make 3 passes. Start from the middle finishing on the corners each pass. Be careful not to split the gasket. If you are using only ultra greay, you can install the piece, let it cure overnite, and then add some torque to the bolts as there is no gasket to split. I like to use the cork gasket dry against the block, and ultra grey between the gasket and the pan. These 2 videos demonstrate my technique

It is for manually operating the sunroof or automatic seat belts if they fail electriclly.

A GLsubaru never cost $35,000 to begin with. The toyota probable has locking front and rear diff.

i would imagine whomever replaced the HG omitted the thermostat to prevent overheats. But that doesn't accomplish anything. Remember to fill the block via the upper hose before filling the radiator if you open the cooling system to inspect the thermo, and follow proper burping procedure. good luck.

There are a series of vent lines running along the top of the tank to 2 vent tops and another sending unit. I would connect the skinniest of the 3 hoses back to where they were both at the inside and under the car where the lines drop out from under the seat over the the side of the car where they meet the rubber lines to the tank. this should also restore your evaporative system if it can be put back together and nothing is missing. Sorry for all the typos, i have edited my original post

I w ould say that it is not a mistake to get this car and for the right price. Being a born and rased hoosier myself, it will be very rare that you find one in less rusty condition in indiana. My prefect 'rust free' 86 coupe cane from fort wayne, where i was froom, but only after i moved here!. It so far is the cleanest example i have ever seen with an ea82, the fenders and the rear quarters were mostly rust free, but there is wheel arch rust. I cleaned it up and por-15's it and some light fiberglass patching and i was happy. If you are doing the HG yourself, the cost will be minimum. The ea82t will be reliable with cooling system upkeep. Ispect the radiator for corrosion, use only oem thermostat with the jiggler ball. When adding coolant, do so through the upper hose into the block first, before the radiator. Perhaps this car was overheated by an air pocket. The maintenance schedule calls for re-torques of the head gaskets, but you need a short socket to do so, and no one ever does it. I would say it likely failed due to age, and with that low of mileage vs age, mostly sitting more than driving.

IF the temp sensor is unplugged, the fans will run continually. If you decided to unplug it to test it, or change it as routine maintenance

Fill the block by the upper hose. It is possible the coolant had an air pocket when it was service last for lack of proper burping procedure. Try this first.

Likely the water pump weep hole is leaking. The 1996 and earlier ej22e with composite HG's don't leak eternally like the newer MLS HG's int he ej22 from 200 and up, and 2.5's from 97 and up. Perhaps your mechanic is mistaking his diagnosis for a symptom of later model engines. Generally the composite gaskets will last the life of the engine if the cooling system has not been neglected. You should focus on replacing the water pump, along with the timing belt and idlers, and may as well do the front seals while in there. Do this first before assuming a HG failure. If this engine was failing the HG, you would either be getting coolant out the tailpipe, or exhaust bubbles in the radiator. Should you need to do the HG's (verified by compression tests, fel-pro is the more affordable option, and it is not necessary to replace the head bolts as they are not torque to yield, as they thread into aluminum with a fine thread. The only circumstance where i could see replacing the head bolts if they are pitted and corroded from cooling system neglect (rust, old coolant, tap water, etc) and only the affected bolts. Give it a go yourself. there is nothing to really mess up. the 1996 engine *should* be non interference, and the only way to potentially damage any valve installing timing belts is by using the wrong marks (never use the arrows!) One could easily do this work in their own garage with a basic compliment of tools. Here is an example:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142723-art-of-subaru-maintenance-vol-2-ej-series-video/?hl=%2Bsubaru+%2Bmaintenance

Now that the coolant is full, be on the lookout for leaks. Perhaps you had a leak that leaked out enough to stop, causing low coolant. One thing to suspect is the skinny hose between the thermostat and the top of the block. Just a suggestion, it is as likely as is not likely.

This would work only if the ej25d manifild has the same bolt pattern as the ej251, which oyu will need the ej25d manifold to match the harness. Otherwie, any 2.2 from 95-99 will be a plug in affair, given if it has egr or not. I do not know if the ej25d and the ej251 share the same intake pattern. I do know that the ej25d is a different pattern than the phase 1 ej22(9--99)The components on either intake are different, but maybe it is possible to merge the intake harness from one to the other. But i have no experience with this, i am only speculating.

There is aMAP sensor on the strut tower, next to a brown vac solenoid. The hose from this tees off the line that goes from the manifold to the fuel pressure regulator.

Sounds like low coolant. Check the coolant when the car is warm and the heat is cold. The thermostat must be open to allow you to fill the coolant completely and burp out the air bubbles. Try filling the block by the upper radiator hose. Also, observe if there are bubbles coming out of the radiator or overflow tank while running, as this could be a sigh nof failing head gaskets where exhaust gas is pushed into the radiator forcing coolant out of the overflow.

Or the hub is stripping out from loose axle nut, or the washer are installed incorrectly. The flat washer is actually a spring washer, and has a dome shape where the conave side meets the hub, and the convex side meets the nut, which makes it hod torque.

Cometic Hybrid (frankenmotor) 2.2/2.5 Head Gasket

This is a good example of what to consider for a used subaru. The 2.2 engine for that year is not prone to the same HG issues as later models. The timing belt may be non-interference for that year. The worst to expect from the mileage is having to replace the WP by 200,000 miles to prevent failure. Consider the WP and timing belt done together with new idlers by 200,000 mi. I would not be disappointed at all with the surface rust on the hood considering (by the pctures) there is no rust on the rear quarter panel where the bumper meets the wheel arch (the muinting clip likes to rust out, be sure to wash behind the fender lip, remove the mud flaps to wash and wax) That generation between 93-and 99 are the most solid reliability wise. Don't consider the car high mileage until it has 250,000 on it. Also consider, that if and when you need to replace the struts, you can install forester (98-02) struts and springs for more lift