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MilesFox

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Everything posted by MilesFox

  1. MilesFox
    The thermostat sits on the cold side of the cooling system If an aur bubble hangs out in there, the block can boil over and the radiator remains cold, because the thermo needs a volume of coolant to work. I solved an overheat problem in a 2001 outback by replacing the cap and thermostat, as well as the engine temp sensor (intermittent temp spiking, and hrd starting when hot) Any time you are opening the cooling system, it is recommended to fill the engine block via the upper hose first, before taking on any in the radiator, and then run the car to add the rest, and be certain the thermostat is open and the coolant is cirvulating before throwing on the cap and calling it a day. You may want to hod the RPM past idle to work out air bubbles and force the thermostat open. Adhere to this advice or secede to the realm of blown head gaskets. This is not grandpa's chevy, so a lot of that 'common knowledge' simply just won't apply with a subaru's cooling system
  2. MilesFox
    How is the intake gasket? Maybe you have a vac leak causing a no-fire and high idle as you advance the timing
  3. MilesFox
    I had a HF cutoff whell blow up in my hand as soon as i powered it on. It may hav ebeen cracked from leaving the tool lay around. I used it with a milwaukee angle grinder. I am on my 3rd electric impact after the 2nd one wakled away(continued to work after blowing a pawl out the side of the head). The first time i used it, i had to tighten down the brush as it was intermittent. But it did the job of lugnuts on ford 350 camper and ambulance swapping all 6 wheels between the 2, and then the front brake rotor on one of them.
  4. MilesFox
    Firing order 3 4 1 3 Mixed up firing order will cause backfire in the TB Initial timing is 20 deg BTDC, with the green test connectors plugged in (holds the timing static for the timing gun) rotation counter clockwise. Check vacuum line to the vac canister)easy to miss). Double check PCV hoses for roper routing. Have you used the original loyale intake on the 89 gl donor? Either is compatible, but generally use the same intake with same sensors original to receiving car.
  5. MilesFox
    longer stroke.
  6. MilesFox
    It will be a drop in-bolt on affair. you will have to carry over the flexplate to match the trans, and you will have to swap the header pipe to match the exhaust ports. the 2.5 may have an EGR that the 5spd may not. you might have to fool the ECU with a resisotr, or tap a hole for the EGR tubing. The 2.5 intake does not bolt onto the 2.2 engine. If you feel like doing heads, you can put the 2.2 heads on the 2.5 block for more compression and power, but you must use higher octane fuel.
  7. MilesFox
    I would suspect if the pigtail is not loose or corroded, one of the pins in the socket has either corroded, or came disconnected from behind. Bulb sockets can and do wear out. My eperience working at u-haul, most of the time qa bulb was unresponsive, a wiggle of it in the socket would get it to come back. Sometimes the sockets had to be replaced from wear I would suggest wiggling the bulb or pushing down and turning a little while someone stands on the brake to determine if it is the socket or something else.
  8. MilesFox
    wiggle the pigtail connector where the lamp assembly plugs into the body harness. Is it only the brake lamp not working? Is there a trailer hitch wiring setup?
  9. MilesFox
    you can make it work. i had the luxury of working on one with reversed heads. It had a copper pipe across the top for the EGR.
  10. MilesFox
    The front will require some modification. The rear is bolt on. You will have to hog out the ea81 lower control arm, the xt is too long. But you can make the xt6 control arm work with a wider track using the xt/ea82 axles, but you have to relocate the mount which requires fabrication. Otherwise, you will need a hybrid axle to use the xt6 hub, and you will have to hybrid the tophat or make holes for the strut to mount.
  11. MilesFox
    I want to love it, but i need to get it to that point. I am putting much work into it almost on the scale of my 3door coupe, less the engine and trans swap. The body work is much more work than with the 3door. And as much as i can do to make it nice, it is rusted out to begin with. For something that needed a water pump and a shifter bushing, I will have to take out the whole interior to repair it properly, and swap the manual cranks onto the new doors, etc. More work than i wanted to do, but might as well.
  12. MilesFox
    If you have buddy it can be accomplished by hand. Better yet, lash it to a 2x4. Remove the intake and the ancillaries to save weight, although with a lift, the whole unit can come out whole. If you remove the heads, the short block can be wrangled out by yourself (if u have a strong back) and you can chuck it across the room. I have pulled engines with a comealong cable ratchet, which will do if oyu have some sort of overhead beam or rafter tie to use. also, not sure about newer bodys, but there should be a hole on the strut tower to relocate the prop rod and prop the hood straight vertical for this operation ('swap mode'). You remove the rod from its grommet, turn it backwards, hook it into the hood, and then into the hole on the strut tower.
  13. MilesFox
    If you need a hub i'll bring one. I don't need anything for it if you actually do need it yourself. I'll hold it out for you just in case.
  14. MilesFox
    the 90-91 harness plugs in different than 92-94, but just swap the harness on the intake with your original and you will be good.
  15. MilesFox
    The heads can come off with engien in cr. The engine is easy to remove as well. It comes forward and out the top, juust prop up the trans so it clears the frame. Removing the airbox and the washer jug will give you better clearance if you pull the heads. May as well pull the motor and do all the seals. You may have gotten away with no piston damage, but replacing the block is far more economical than rebuilding it, since they just don't wear out. any impreza or legacy engine will work as well
  16. MilesFox
    I have had a carter weber 1 bbl in an 83 FWD 5spd with high altitude kit. I found that the base would get loose. You remove the carb, and on the underside of the base plate there are screws into the carb that come loose. i had 'floppy carb' and would have high idles and backfires. Check this as a possibility; use loc tite
  17. MilesFox
    Well, now that you have successfully bled the brakes, the knowledge is now yours to pass on.
  18. MilesFox
    I would imagine there ar eno turbo fresters in puerto rico. I'm sure there are plenty of chrome plated scooters, though. You would have to swap the front crossmember, or chop and weld a spot to allow for the turbo up=pipe. The motor would phyically fit, but the wiring and or ecu may be different. If you know what you are doing, it can be done. I know puerto rican folk to be pretty crafty with their vehicles.
  19. MilesFox
    I dropped the gas tank and sub frame thinking i cracked the brake line while changing struts. Well, the brake line was intact, but rusted. So i replaced them anyway, and swapped in a different tank that had a working fuel gauge. This goes along with cutting out rust and welding in better quarter panels. I hate this car.
  20. MilesFox
    Sorry, i must correct myself, start with the RR, LF, LR, RF. The idea is bleed the wheel farthest from the MC. This is a dual diagonal braking system, where the LF and RR are ganged together and vice versa. This is sort of arbitrary, as long as you start with the rear, i suppose. Sometimes oyu can do it FF, RR, but keep the dual diagonal in mind. I guess it all depends on which one has air in it. And depressing the clutch for the hill holder is the magic trick that is not described in any procedure.
  21. MilesFox
    The bearing will seat as you torque the axle nut. This is entirely different from a spindle bearing as you described. Unless you were working on a pre-96 FWD model. Bearing failures can be attibuted to poor axle nut torque, or bad seals.
  22. MilesFox
    count the splines on the stub shafts. they should be 23 splines. The RX has 25 spline axles. You can use 23 spline turbo axle for an automatic to use the GL trans. The GL trans will have a 3.90 final gear, whereas the rx has a 3.700 some of the individual gear ratios may be different for years in the 80's. There is a chart somewhere in this forum, search the archives
  23. MilesFox
    A bad wheel bearing can make a rumbling sound as well. Does the steering feel vague. Does the backend of the car wag around? IF the bearing fails enough, the rotor disc will side load the pads and ride against the caliper bracket.
  24. MilesFox
    The dual range trans has a separate lever. You swap the trim cover on the console to match. The 4wd button will then be obsolete, but if oyu were lucky enough to find a full time dual range RX trans (and diff), the vacuum solenoids that operate the pushbutton 4wd will operate the diff lock.
  25. MilesFox
    just change the trans. the clutch, axles, and driveshaft are the same. Swapping the trans is no more work than removing and reinstalling.
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