MilesFox

Probably a CV axle going bad. Inspect the boots.

You have the 4eat transmission which is essentially the same as the legacy and impreza automatic in function. The AWD light on the dash is just advertising the feature, as the trans is a full time 4wd true AWD The turbo light on the dash comes on at boost. Do you have exhaust leaks?

This goes down in my neighborhood. This is the premier motofest in Wisconsin! Vintage motorcycles from 1900's era to british to turbo kawasakis.

The only difference in ea82 water pumps is the shaft lenght depending on the pulley. The turbo should have a short water pump with a bolt-on pulley. And to scoobiedoobie, a lot of of not all the ea81 radiators are double row, and the ea82t came with them standard, and are retrofittable to single cores as well

Not an issue in that regard, but an issue depending on the brand or parts counter you got it at. You can get the right ones aftermarket, but you have to stay away from the economy brands. A chevy small block thermo fits, but the brass piece is not the same as for subaru.

If you made a more ambitions project, it would be cool to chop down a wagon and a 3door ea82 to make a proper ea82 brat. Or chop a sedan and a 3door coupe to make a 2 door sedan.

He must have swapped in the whole harness from the 86. either that or chopped in a standalone wiring harness. If he successfully swapped a whole ea82t and harness, he must have know what he was doing. The loyale would have had a single core radiator originally. The timing should be set to 25 deg BTDC for 85/86 mpfi turbo. It should have a mechanical disty and an external knock control unit in the passenger side fender, and a vane style (flapper) Mass Air Flow sensor. Can you provide some pis of the engine and harnesses? Do you know if the car has the correct thermostat? A lot of the aftermarket thermostats have a smaller brass valve and lack the little jiggle ball. This could be a problem with overheat as well.

replace it with an original brat axle. the 5 spd dual range trans has the same spline count as the 4spd. But the brat axle is shorter than an ea82 axle.

An ea82t should have a dual row radiator. Make sure that the rdiator is not corroded or missing fins. Check that the thermoswithc is connected on the bottom side of the radiator. You can test the fan by jumpering this terminal to see if the fan is working or not. Yup, the video is the one i put up. If you followed the instructions correctly, you got ot. Although it is possible to be a tooth off. For clarity, are you sure we don't have an 86 turbo with a 93 loyale engine block? A turbo block has 7.7:1 compression, a carb engine has 9.0, and spfi has 9.5 Please elaborate more on the history of the car.

Is the timing belt mounted correctly? using the proper marks? maybe you have a tooth off. Try adding coolant to block from the upper radiator hose. Remove the thermostat and fill the block there. Bleeding the air out is tricky with these. Run the heater on full hot. You should get hot heat.If the heat is cool, there is not enough coolant in the system.

The water pipe going along the top of the block flows from the water pump, and then returns to the pipe in the intake manifold

I presume by that you have an 87 Hatchback, with the front grille like that of a brat or 80-84 wagons. They continued this body with an ea81 threu 89 although the ea82 bodies started in 85-94 In that case it is a pushrod engine, no chance for timing belt to break. Make sure that the fuel pump is working. It is located ahead of the passenger rear tire on the frame. Also check the fuel filter there and under the hood.

Please watch these videos as it will give you an idea of the labor and tools involved with taking a subaru apart and putting it back together. Hopefully it will give you confidence to undertake some of the work yourself and save some $$$

Something with SPFI fuel injection is most ideal. any 88 and later are all the same mechanically. Any dual range transmission will just bolt up to any pushbutton 4wd provided that it is a non turbo trans going into a non turbo car (3.900 gear, 23 spline axle. The labor to swap a trans is no more than to remove the trans to replace a clutch. Any of these cars with any mileage or age will require the same preventive maintenance. Timing belts are due every 60,000 mi but can last 100,000 mi. The variables in timing bet life is if any oil seals have been serviced or not, or if the idlers pulleys are going bad or not. If you have any maechanical aptitude and basic tools, servicing the car yourself is fairly easy. The biggest concern when shopping is knowing the cooling system maintenance. The one thing tha tkills these cars is failed head gaskets caused by failed cooling ststem. Knowing the coolant was flushed or the water pump was replaced is a bonus. If the timing belt is broken, it is a non interference engine so no damage is done. Perhaps if you find one with a broken timing belt for cheap, it will be a guaranteed runner once repaired. Mainly what to look for is having the timing belts serviced along with cam, crank, and oil pump seals. Some of these cars have lifter tick which is more of an annoyance than a mechanical issue, and can usually be cured by replacing the oil pump selas if it has not been neglected. Aside form that, axle boots and wheel bearings are something to consider as routine maintenance. these cars see 300,000 miles and more with regular preventive maintenance. Don't bother with rebuilding engine blocks as any pull-off engine that runs will have a strong bottom end if it hasn't been trashed from lack of oil. Any of these cars are salvageable or repairable effectively if they are not crashed up or succumb to rust. And in the PNW some surface rust is nothing compared to midwest cars that rusted in half 10 years ago.

From what i know is an ea82 DL quad headlight uses the same bucket as an ea81. so therefore it may be possible to fit ea82 headlamps. I would imagine some sheetmetal work to retrofit marker lamps, andmaybe some mods to the edge of the hood to fit the headlamp profile.

Do your homework as there are bellhousing adapters available to mate the ej engine to the ea trans. There is a 10mm difference in the bellhousing. the bottom studs and the pilot shaft line up, but the top bolts line up different. One could engineer an adapter plate. You may have to space the starter with washers. Then you use an ea82 flywheel and clutch, and hog out the bolt holes on the flywheel to match the ej engine. The rest is a cut down wiring harness and adapting the engine to the radiator as the hose diameters are different. There are lots of documented examples by using the search function. Or look in the "Subaru Retrofitting" forum The easiest way to accomplish this is find a whole donor car for the parts, unless someone else has already pulled a motor and harness for this purpose for sale.

that mpfi turbo engine will not fit a carb manifold. you can swap heads, but 7.7 compression is not as ideal as 8.5 (carb) or 9.5 (spfi) You can just drop in a whole complete carb engine, wire it to the coil, and replace the fuel pump with one for a carb. But for the effort, find a crashed legacy and swap the ehj22e as a stock legacy engine still has 30 more HP than that ea82t out of the box. are you sure your 'knock' is not lifter tick? I doubt rebuilding the case will gain you anything. go ahead and pull off the heads to see the crosshatches are still there. Boring these engines can cause it to spin a sleeve. As far as keeping the same engine alive, do the oil pump seals and the cam tower o-rings.

you can tear down that ea82 in a matter of minutes! Check that the timing belt is broken, because the disty is driven by the cam, and the fuel pump needs to see a pulse from the disty to operate.

It reminds me of the days when i had my 88 sedan. Quite possibly my most favorite subaru, and the one i got the most use/mileage from

REally depends on what you want to pay for. The impreza is more universal as far as random subaru parts fitting on it. The EA82 subarus will give you the option of dual range transmission and are much lighter. Either car is going to require the same maintenance as far as coolant and water pump and cam seals, etc. You will want to know what service has been done if possible.

Watch out for corroded radiators. Blown HG's are not the end of the world if you want to make aproject for scrap price. Anything with a broken timing belt sold for junk price is a guaranteed runner with new belts. Otherwise ask when the timing belts and water pumps were last serviced. Expect to do *some* work on the car if you want to depend on it. The bonus part of that is the car is straight forward to work on with simple tools.

Awesome. I am a fan of your car. It makes me jealous:)

It is possible to swap legacy impreza parts in the car. You will have to enlarge the ball joint hole for the knuckle, use 23 spline axle (93 impreza FWD) or swap the stub shafts on the trans with a 25 spline stub. For the rear you will have to modify the backing plates for a legacy or impreza to fit on the trailing arm, but you will still need impossible to find xt6 hubs unless you can machine or modify the existing hub for a 5x100 wheel.

you could consider a 3at from a turbo with a 3.70 gear ratio vs the 3.9 ratio your car has.But he same gutless ea82 in front of a 3at will come much more alive with a 5spd.

Old radiators and corroded water pumps plus lack of regular coolant changes cause these engines to run hot. Take care of your cooling system and your ea82 will take care of you.