MilesFox

Whoops, i forgot the link!

Dude gave up on the car and didn't want to sell it to some ricer kid who would have ruined it. He got out of the XT to focus on his other showroom minty xt and the SVX, and got into an outback wagon as a daily driver.

The radiator should be grounded to the core support at the top. This serves as the ground for the thermoswitch. The thermoswitch is a single spade. If you short that wire to ground the fan should come on if the circuit is working properly.

UPDATE: for anyone paying attention I moved down the block into one house and into another in 6 months (we own the one we are in!) I haven't been ripped off lately Desmond got robbed at the shop I cashed in my copper coins to buy model trains (about $375 worth sorted). I wish i bought bullets instead because now you can't find them and they cost too much at the range. rimfire .22 was correct for the colt trooper mkIII 6.5" barrel- I have about 700 rounds now I got a concealed carry permit and a ruger LCP 380 with a spare mag, IWB carry, chambered mosin nagant m44 carbine and 500 rds Still have my silver but now i am too poor to buy it since it is so cheap right now. I have been putting any spare dollars into this house as investment There is an 81 ford e350 ambulance in the driveway. Why do i have this? I parted out the monsterwedge and put all that moist yummy suspemsion in my 3door. The 3door is a complete project save for connecting the instrument gauge to the harness. I sold the monsterwedge to Desmond for 300 bucks just to get it out of my way. He is doing some grassrotsmotorsports.com project with it nowadays. It will receive a WRX intercooler to replace the ill volvo/ford setup that was built before WRX was available in the USA. I know more history about the car now to get off on the fact that I had dennisex24's car parted off because that what he gets for hating on my sh*t 10 years ago. And i apologize that my 3door is built with parts that everyone else owed money for. It just happened that way without my involvement. monsterwedge will be done right by mr jones to all involved with the drama over this car. My chapter on this car is now closed.

I should have been more specific. I didn't mean taking the axles out all the way. I still revel in the realm of ea82 cars so i keep thinking of that when i am too quick to post. Just undo the pivot bolts on the strut to knuckle. Either way, Everyone has there preferences. I find it easiest to pull the engine with my methods, but a lot of what i am working on needs engine work anyway. I guess i am speaking form the realm of swapping whole drivelines as i have done alot of that. Also i am speaking from the manner of resources of the back alley garage rather than having professional shop space and tools. Actually, i just swapped trans' between 2 cars back and forth to eachother. I did this because i didn't want to pull the ej swapped motor in the first car. This saved me the work of pulling 2 engines from 2 cars, but the se engines did not need any work. Plus i was swapping struts, driveshafts and the rear diffs. But i tell you it was not fun laying under 2 cars in a puddle of gear oil and it took me months to get around to put the 2nd car back together after getting the first one going.

Either the voltage regulator in the alternator is failing, or charging wire off the back of the alt has a bad connection.

If you take the advice given here, the consensus is pulling ht emotor is less work, aside from having to open the cooling system. It is possible to lift the motor and pull it forward with out entirely remoing it to do the clutch. Plus if taking the motor out, you can do things like the valve covers much easier, and take the opportunitiy to servince the timing belt and cam seals. Pulling hte trnas involves removing the axles, which involvs undoing ball joints. This also requires you to remove the header pipe and cats. Then you get into rusty bolts and having to replace donut gaskets and spring bolts. Not to mention being under the car on your back, dropping the driveshaft, and spilling fluids all over the place. Versus pulling hte trans, pulling the motor requires undoing the same bell housing bolts. But you only have to disconnect the exhaust header form the heads, and the rest is just coolant hoses and wiring harnesses. You would only have to be under the car to undo the motor mounts and the exhaust header. This work is more efficient if you have an engine crane. It takes less than an hour to pull or reinstall the engine if you are experienced with subarus. Access is much easier with the engine out, especially if you want to do the rear baffle plate ad removing flywheels from under the car is not fun either. The motor will sit just fine in a milk crate or 5 gallon bucket.

^^^ yes, this is easy to do by mustake. On this engine, the fuel pressure regulator is on the RETURN side AFTER the fuel injector.

The alternator is failing

Do oyu know if the ignition amplifier module is present or functioning?

www.nasioc.com (subaru forum)

I just worked on an 86 xt today. Although it has some horribly cobbled together engine/intake/intercooler. I noticed it has the same wire, and of course, it is not connected to anything. There are other wires not going anywere, which i would guess go to the ac system which has been deleted. But there are so many odd plugs that don't go to anything. But then again part of the trans harness is missing, it is an 86 body with an 87.5 spider intake and a ford intercooler. But hthe car runs although it is not tuned properly at all and is basically un-tuneable

Check to make sure the axle nut is not loose, and that the washers are installed in the correct orientation. This may be cause by loose wheel bearings, which can be caused by loose axle nuts.

Here is a video on how to remove and reinstall the axle. Once you have the axle out, the bearings are cake. I had another video about the bearings, but the original file got corrupted, so i need to re-edit it. With the axle out of the hub, use a drift to drive out the bearings from opposite sides. Driving out the bearing will drive out the seal as well. Then re-install the bearings with a drift, being careful to only place the drift on the out er race. There will be a spacer bit that goes between the bearings. Then install the seals. Refer to the video to reinstall the axle. Watch the video and if you have any questions ask here.

If it is stuck in 4wd, then make sure the vacuum lines to the vacuum canister and the 4wd solenoids on the firewall are connected. If all of your heater settings are blowing out of the dash only, this is your original problem. There are 2 bearings for each front hub. all 4 bearings are the same part. Then there are an inner and outer seal for each hub.

Yeah, i guess so. I am not perfect with this stuff. Mainly i am trying to remember things from 10 years ago when there were still ea81's in my side of the midwest. I haven't had an ea81 for some time. I'm sorry that i was so mean in this post. I apologize.

I hve never seen a warped thermostat housing. Unless one had been installed improperly there is an elbow hose just above it that may be leaking at a clamp. It may be oil soaked. Depending on mileage, age, or coolant change intervals, the water pump may be leaking from the shaft or weep hole. It would not be a bad idea to consider replacing the water pump as routine as more often than not a timing belt failure is caused by a seized water pump or idler pulley

Are you driving around in 4wd? If the bearings were shot that bad you would have camber and steering issues, horrible noises, and brake Toyota grinding on the caliper bracket. Depending on the history of the car, you may have: A seized caliper Mismatched gear ratios between the trans and rear diff Improper ignition or belt timing Mismatched tires Driving in 4wd on dry pavement which is a no no

I still think you should consider replacing the ign amp module.

It's all about the gearing.

NO it does not. Perhaps the idle air control valve is stuck open, or there is a vacuum leak. Maybe you knocked something loose messing with the battery. DO NOT make any adjustments to the throttle body.

you would have to subtract frm the bellhousing to make it work. now say if you put a ea81 with a fwd ea82 trans that would work

I would suspect either the flange gaskets between the cats are rusting through, or where may be a crack developing just aft of the rear cat where the pipe comes out.

Yeah, ditch the 2nd cat, basically the glasspack will replae it. The header pipe does all the exhaust tune and scavenging, and everything after that just brings it out past the bumper. Is your car exempt from emissions for registration in your state?

The difference would be built into the ECU. The LED will identify itself by blinking so many times in a row. Mechanically everything is the same, as far as i know. I like to go the route of installing a glasspack immediately after the y-pipe flange, and substitute the muffler for a straight pipe. You should be shifting so that when you upshift, your next gear lands at the 2000-2500 rpm range when accelerating from the bottom of a gear. Ideal cruising rpm in any gear at any speed would be 2000-2500 rpms such as 3rd gear at 40 mph These engines seem to be more efficient in middle rpm range than lower rpm range. anything above 4000 isnt really necessary unless you are trying to get on it, hence wind it up if you want to gain some acceleration.