MilesFox

Did the bendix gear fall out of the starter? Does 'pretty dead' mean it is not turning, or it is just plain broken?

This is what happens when you restore a car that already has a dent. I can't speak for rob's car, but my car is Too pretty to look at, Too immaculate to sit in, but it still has rust on the edges and a dent on the hood. But a pretty car with a little dent is still better than no pretty car at all!

Appearently, i have the right part. Perhaps the connector needs a wiggle. So i would conclude the problem is the pin or the connector itself with fitment/contact issue. http://www.capitolsupply.com/gov/catalog/products-7702443/ts5601-coolant-temp-sensor-napa-ts5601-napa-echts5601-cs7439311.html?optid=42614520

Based on your symptoms of not starting until sitting for a while, I would suspect the Ignition Amplifirer module on the coil bracket. This part can overheat and fail until cool, and is also a common instance reported on this site. The crank sensor is the optical disty. The ECU needs to see a signal from this to pulse the injector and the ingnition amplifier. If you must replace harness sections (confirmend by continuity testing) anything from 88 and up is the same.

Is the axle all the way in the hub? The axle nut will pull it through once tightened. Perhaps the DOJ side is hyperextended and is not seating at the bottom of the cup.

What year? 85 and 86 mpfi have a mechanical disty and an external knock control unit. The balck wire is positive and the yellow wire is negative. The other odd plug may be for the knock sensor on top of the block near the timing plug. The knock control unit is installed in the passenger ide fender behind the strut tower. the metal bracket on the ground starter cable goes on after the starter is aligned to the std, and before you put the bolt through. It installs on the rearward face of the starter 'ear' The bracket fits to there the bolt part fotr the cable itself overlaps forward on the starter ear.

How much did it cost to build this car?

This is typically out of lack of knowledge to properly service them, or by them being ruined already from the wrong service.

for 1986 this would be Subaru GL Coupe. GL is the 'model' and coupe is the body. Also known as '3-door, or 3door as far as search results go. References to 'hatch or hatchback' refer to the older body with ea81 engins. 1986 is the first year for the coupe body style. The hatch wend from 79 or 80 thru 89. the 3door coupe went thru 90. For parts listings, just default to looking for 1990 loyale so you don't get wrong parts since there are overlaps of 2 generations of car for the same 85-89 years of parts listings. I have one of these, Chestnut brown metallic, tan interior, originally a FWD 5spd, now EJ'd and 5 lugged with full time transmission.

Don't junk it unless it folds in half. Which it won't. The rest of the car has yet to rust out long before you have to worry about anything. You can make reasonable measures to keep it from getting worse, and continue to enjoy the car. I made the same repairs on my car. I would never want to do it again. And only because i want to keep the car forever. Because i will never find another one around here. This spot rusts out from water dripping behind the cowl and the corner of the windshield. It will rust the floorboards just behind the framerails.

Mechanically it will, but the gear ratio may be different. check the diff tag. The harness may have different shaped plug at the firewall end.

Unless this part cross references with other makes, I can't imagine there being more than one part number from SUBARU for this part. I would imagine it to be the same for any engine in that generation class of engine/harness/ecu. Much like the temp sensor in a 90 ej22e is the same as a 98 impreza ej221

This is an 03 model. I would have expected this, but on this particular engine there is only the sensor with 3 pins assuming the dash gauge is built into the 3rd pin, and there is no other sensor present on the crossover pipe except for a solenoid on the other side. The dash gauge was functioning normally before replacing the sensor. But the symptoms are like what you describe with the older setups with the brown 2 pin ecu temp sensor and the single lead gauge sensor.

Turn the pistons. Make sure the parking brake is off or disconnected. Try pushing down and turning. it will engage a thread as it turns. You may have to tap the face with a hammer to allow it to move enough to engage the thread. You may be able to accomplish this with just a channel plier. You should be able to find the caliper tool at an auto store. It looks like a metal cube that goes on a ratchet and had nubs on each face for different styles of calipers. This design is typical of rear parking disc only brakes. But subaru front brakes have been this way form 70's models all the way thru 94 with ea82's

Based on my experience, you will be able to re-do the head gaskets on the ea82 and call it a day. Pulling the engine gives you better acesss to doing engine seals. Do replace the cam and crank seals at least. For cost effective, you can run the existing belts until you want to buy new ones. I suggest this for 2 reasons: 1 if the belt is not broken, it is still working, and 2: Run without covers. Take them all off inner and outer. You have to remove them to pull the heads. just throw them away. The next time you have to service the belts, you can replace them with 2 tools in 20 minutes, and it saves you from having to remove the crank pulley and the ac/alternator assembly the next time. From my experience, i have re HG'd several overheated ea82's, including ones with milkshake in the oil and turbo, and never had a poroblem just slapping on heads and go. I have never bothered to re-surface the heads and been just fine. IT may sound like bad advice, but none of them have ever failed. The ea82 is a pretty rugged piece when it comes down to the simple mechanics of it. I have seen running ea82's with the heads on backwards and parts missing from inside the oil pump.

I did un plug a lot of the intake harness and undo the ground to access the part. This is a grey molded plug, triangular in shape, there are 3 pins, 2 are brass and one is silver. I told the kid not to worry about the operation of it, other than the temp gauge is probably the single most important gauge next to fuel or speed.. I'll suggest he go to the dealer for the part since the same thing has happened to this post^^^^^^^ Now hesays the AC is not working(not cold) but i would believe this is coincidental. This is a used car dealer car with no prior maintenance papers. Who knows. I would assume the AC was charged upon sale and leaked out, but not related to the temp sensor.

Use a dab of ultra grey to hold it in place.

Here are some posts from my build that highlights the crossmember http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/115300-86-3door-runaboutfwdft4wd-4-lug5lug-ea82-carbej22-or-er27-swap-rust-removal/?p=992336 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/115300-86-3door-runaboutfwdft4wd-4-lug5lug-ea82-carbej22-or-er27-swap-rust-removal/?p=1000253

I have an xt6 crossmember in a gl coupe, which is opposite of what you are doing. I had to drill a hole on eaither side of the xt6 member to fit my frame. It should be the rear part of the frame lines up, so line up the holes, and drill new ones to match the body. You may want to consider using the studs from a normal body and drilling through the framerail on the xt6 to match the turbo crossmember. The hole spacing on the body may be too far apart for the crossmember. Either way, depending on where you drill holes, it will match up to the body. You will have to rely on your skills to attach it, but the dimensions are there to work with. There may be differences where the power steering rack mounts such as swapping lines over. Depending on the rack. You may have to remove the external hard lines on the turbo crossmember, and if using the xt6 rack, you may have to make a 2nd hole on the crossmember for the steering line hook-up since later steering racks run along the rack instead of external hardlines. This may be different depending on what year your parts are. I had an 86 body using 89 parts going into it. There are a few structural difference from 86 bodies from 87 and later due to the introduction of 4spd auromatic trans in 87/88

There shoild be little drain holes casted into the heads. Lookout for dirt and leaves that my clog it up. Be careful not to get any funk down the threaded hole. Loosen up debris with a pik or screwdriver and blast it away with compressed air.

I have gone as far as removong the whole subframe and using a hammer to beat off the cv ends from the diff. In my case these were very rusty midwest cars. The trick was heat and pb blaster. The axle can be disassembled from one and and left on the stub if you just need to get the axle apart.

Anyone on here would be the hobbyist that had the ambition and skills to do the work. Anyone doing it here as a service volunteers such. The hobbyist with experience rather than a shop doing this for aftermarket. Aside fro forum members that may help you out, I do know that Kennedy Engineering does packages for subaru engine installs in volkswagens. Good luck with your project.

A good lock smith can rebuld the tumblers. He can probably take one and match it to an existing key. Try some graphite powder lube for locks for the sticky cylinder.

I find it normal to run below the half mark. Generally at about the 1/3rd mark. It should not vary between warmer and cooler days unless there are issues with the cooling system. OEM thermostat means a lot with these cars. Don't sweat it unless your temperature goes above half, or fluctuates a lot. Make sure coolant is full and air is burped out. Look for any signs of coolant around the timing belts as the water pump will leak from the weep hole once it wears past its service life. An old water pump may become inefficient. Old radiators become corroded. Frequent coolant changes (30,000 mi or 5 yrs) help prevent cooling system corrosion.

Drums usually outlast the front brakes over 2 times or more. Drums are turnable if they are not worn beyond limit. Find a shop with an old timer and a brake lathe.