MilesFox

Careful. You will be on a Harley and wearing a mullet before too long. Unless that is your thing. You are essentially where all of that comes from.

Have your mechanic add coolant to the block via the upper radiator hose if he is confident there are no loeaks. It is tricky to get the aur pocket out of these engines.

Hmm, wonder if the engine spun a cylinder sleeve?

I would guess the coolant was low when you brought it in. The mechanic may have added coolant and whatnot. Either it wasnt burped properly, or the damage was already done from the last overheat, allowing the HG to fai a little, and now it is failing the rest of the way. MAybe your mechanic didnt want to scare you suggesting the HG needs replaced without trying a new cap at least.

I now have this same 95 legacy. It started off as a 500 dollar car with a seized water pump.

Rev it up as much as you like. She will only get too hot ifther eis a problem with the gooling system, at any rpm. The engine cruises best between 2500 and 3500 rpm. 3500 rpm is expected at highway speed. She really comes alive if you let her rev out to 4500-5500 when accelerating. If you find yourself driving at 15oo rpm, short shifting, bogging and lugging, you will get worse performance and fuel economy and complain how show your car is.

I only wouldn't to stay out of trouble (not get arrested, etc) but not that i was afraid of breaking the car.

Welcome. I see you're in crud-a-hy. No offense . Find me on the north east side. Anything in particular you looking for? YOu can pick up some 90's model cheap enough, unless you want something newer. I go the route of a 95 legacy, because it is mechanically the same as thru 1999, but is not subject to emissions (1996) for registration here in wisconsin.

Perhaps it overheated from lack of proper burping procedures? maybe compounded with low or no oil. It would obvioulsy be overheating long before it would seize. It would run hot enough to boil the oil before it seized.

Dude is talented, but intellectually lazy. dude is some sort of eccentric with not so much a work ethic. He comes of as being heir to higher social economic status, but yet hasn't contributed to or earned any of it, other than being a product of it. Hopefully we will see it, if he gets on the mode of those types of ventures being of a professional carreer rather than an eccentric hobby. I am impressed with his talent, but am disappointed by his motivation. As far as being stuck in 4wd, you can reverse the vacuum lines to actuate the diaphragm to the 4wd. You can jack up the side of the car, and having oe front wheel, and one rear wheel off the ground at the same time, will release any bind int he driveline and allows the open diffs to spin freely.

The anennae on my car were from a box truck, CB antennay, hose clamped to the roof rails. The car is long gone, but that roof rail has been swapped along for so many years before it finally got donated to another member's car. The ford pump would be the in-line unit for any f-series with dual tanks to the rear tank. If you are only filling 12 gallons at the pump, that means you are leaving more gas in the tank when you go to fill it. Overall capacity is 15.9 gallons. The low fuel warning light comes on at about 2.5 gallons. You can still get 30-40 miles of driving after the light stays steady on before you risk running out of fuel. My car takes on average 13 gallons when i fill because i stretc the gauge and live in an urban environment. But only because I trust the gauge. My other car i never let go below 1/4 because the car runs out of gas at 1/8 fuel (i think the sock fell off the fuel pump leaving that last gallon un-pumpable) In regards to 'catch this fox', that was a movie project by a guy in film school who fancied my trashwagons. and some 8 years later we still have no movie as ddude had no direction with where he was going with it or what kind of story to tell. Basically pont shoot, and then try to make an outline from that. I ended up in a large city 300 miles away from where i am from to be subject of a movie that never happened. Hopefully he will finish it one day, as there are over 100 hours of tape and it is half edited already. But until then, i have my own videos online to fill the gap if you want to torture yourself about 165 10 minute episodes on the 'tube.

I got a 98 forester for $500 bucks. Less than typical of rust, but some dings and scrapes. But i need to do the HG on it as that is why i got it for so cheap. The PO paid $2300 for this same car 3 months before i got onto it (i made my offers when i caught him adding coolant). And my 98 is specific to the axample given above. She got 219,000 miles before popping the head gasket, which is at least 75,000 more miles than when they usually let go. But replacing the gaskets will be an improvement over the original factory ones since the part has been updated. But my math works out that i would have a $2300 book value car for about $200 woth of parts, under $1000 for sure overall investment including title and plates. Really, you could find something decent for the $2500 mark. save the rest of your pennies for later. Most importantly, the best deal you can get regardless of price would be a vehicle that has a maintenance history with documented service and repairs, kept clean and washed, private sale of a car that is already paid off for cash.

Gates and goodyear are good brands for hoses, and even the timing belts. try to stay away from chinese quality for timing belts, although they are cheap enough to replace, and no damage done when they do, but more life from better quality.. The 90 deg elbow hose under the water pump can be any generic molded bend from the parts counter. Just select one and trim it to size. Go with 5/8" diameter. Replace the heater hoses with properly molded hoses and pay attention to the routing around the starter, throttle, and clutch cables. Be careful not to pull the speedo cable out from the firewall as it is easy to do by mistake. And i'm sure you have found the timing belt article and or videos already.

The white connectors are part of the code retrieval/clear code. They should remain unplugged for normal operation The 4wd mechanism on the trans is a big diaphragm thingee on the side with a cable going to the actuation rod, which is towards the rear of the trans on the top side of it. Tthe 'virgin switch' is the one people are not aware of when they can't figure out why the parking lights stay on. Since the headlights turn off with the key, there is a switch on top of the steering column to operate the parking lights. It's easy to miss and easy to bump into and turn it on without knowing it was there. If you never noticed it there until reading this, that makes you a virgin to subaru

Possible seizure could be die to lw oil if the oil change got screwed up. In regards to the intake gaskets, it is possible if it was installed wrong that coolant could have flooded the cylinder and hydrolocked. Soob motors don't normally seize. It would throw a rod thru the block before that happens. Anythign dropped into the intake port would have to get past the valve. Perhaps something fell into the spark plug hole? Maybe the motor didn't seize, but broke a timing belt. The engine is non interference, so if you hear anything about bent valves beware. Especially if the mechanic installs them wrong (out of phase)

Sorry, i missed the part where you changed the CTS. Here is another suggestion: Ignition Amplifier Transistor. This component is mounted to the coil bracket. It works with the disty ad the internals of the disty work as the crank angle sensor, which sends a pulse to the ECU, which then sends a pulse the the ignition amplifier which gives voltage to the coil making and breaking the fueld circuit to induce a spark. This part can over heat and fail until it cools down.

It's possible a carb engine has been swapped to replace a dead turbo engine. If the guy knew what he was doing, all the MPFI harness should still be intact, and another turbo engine should drop in and plug and play. I have done this with a gl-10, swapped back and forth.

The 4wd may not be working due to a vacuum leak. Test this--- Turn on the heat and select different vents. If all the selections blow out the dash, you have a loose vac line between the intake and the vacuum canister on the firewall. This vacuum supplies the 4wd solenoids and the heat position. This vacuum hose is easy to knock loose doing something simple like spark plug wires. With vacuum, if the solenoids failed electrically, you can still manipulate the 4wd by reversing the vacuum lines to the diaphragm alternately. Spark plugs wires may be reversed if you get backfires in the intake. Rotation is counter clockwise 1-3-2-4. @ 20 deg BTDC. The green connectors mentioned would be plugged in to hold the timing static to set with a light, then un plug them for normal operation.Timing may be off. please refer to the 'ea82 timing belt procedure' to verify the timing marks. Search will find it. I wrote the book on it. The brakes are probably just worn and down to the metal. Going ot a 'les schwab' mat as well replace with all new calipers and rotors as that is what they are going to sell you. Unless you have a lot of rust, you can prpbably do it yourself with new rotors, pads, and the existing calipers with plenty of slide grease. The parking brake engages on the front wheels, so make sure the parking brake is off. The piston on the caliper has to be turned in to make room for new pads, do not force them in with a c-clamp! you may find this car easy to work on compared to other models.

You must be thinking of replacing a whole 2.2 engine in place of a whole 2.5... ...Have you been reading the forum?

Just do the o2,s. The shop is probably charging for cats because they don't want to disassemble and reassmeble rust. This way if they snap off the o2 it does not become sticker shock. Not to mean the cats need to be replaced. It's just a matter of getting the sensors out or not die to corrosion. You could suggest a quote for just the o2 sensor and consider new cats if rust is an issue. PErhaps go to an exhaust shop. I hope this insn't a midas or tuffy or similar as they try to suggest sell as much as you will pay for.

Generally with swapping an engine, it is a good idea to leave the original intake to the original car, as it will run the same. This makes sense when replacing a long block or doing head gaskets. But from whole engine swap from whole engine, it is less work to leave the intake on the engine. It is easier to do the flex plate bolts with the intake off. If it were a manual i would leave the intakes alone. More so wiht installation as you do not want to drop the bolts down the hole! Do be careful that you do not snap off any of the intake or water pipe bolts and they tend to if you are not experienced with them. For this reason it may be best to leave the intakes intact if there is no need to remove them for HG or the like. The flex plate bolts can be gotten to with a box end wrench, preferably the ratcheting style. If you undo some coolant hoses on the throttle body you can get in with a 3/8 ratchet and a short socket. The hoses can be a pain in the arse. they would not have to be removed if the intake was coming off.

I would really want an STI, but for me, it would take 15 years for one to become cheap enough to buy. I could only dream of what it would be like to drive one after having over 40 old subarus with the lowest miles being 110,000, newest being 1998, and most of them with 95 hp and the most recent with 135 and a lot fo them with over 200 and 250,000 miles. Don't spoil yourself with a new one until you have driven a slow one fast. Get onto grandma's outback for $1500 cash and get some driving experience down, but a few soobs together (for cheap) and then when you are in your mid 20's and can afford a 15 yr old STI then you will greater appreciate it and still be able to have one for cheap. An'd don't expect to find a 2007 model in 2020 with 25,000 miles. Maybe 250,000 miles. Like the most of us on this forum. Building one is more rewarding than one out of the box. Really if you want to afford a new car, make sure now that you don't rack up tickets ans insurace will get you, and don't end up in collections or credit will get you. The best thing going for you at 16 years old and desiring an STI is a clean slate to start off.

This consensus is mainly aimed at rookies or do-it-yourselfers for 1, usually a presumed leak is more likely the separator plate, and 2, replacing the rear main seal can fail if not seated properly, or if using a cheap brand. The rear main should be flush with the case, but it is possible to drive it in farther than the face and bottom it out, or install crooked. Yours looks like it may seep a little, which any seal does, and the accumulation on the bottom appears to come from the bottom of the separator plate. Even in the 2nd picture of the dirtier rear main seal, I would be fine with leaving it be if i was doing something like the clutch, but am not into a whole reseal. My discretion to do so would be based on if the seal was still pliable, but if it was hard and cracked, i would replace it. Really it's no big deal to go ahead and replace it if you are experienced with it, seat it properly, and use an NOK seal made in japan and not a national seal made in mexico. I guess the moral of the story is it is up to your discretion based on how much labor and parts you want to be into. But again, there are horrible stories of the seal just popping out from their own oil pressure if not installed properly. It has never happened to me with my backyard garage automotive experience (%90 of that being old subarus), but it has happened to someone i know with similar skills but less experience with subaru, and i have read stories about it on USMB in so many years. Use Permatex Ultra Grey for the separator plate. The new one should be staped galvanized seal with all screws and one allen screw for the top corner as separate part numbers to get the hardware. You will need the new hardware to replace what you have. an ej22e would have an aluminum plate that would replace yours with the same hardware. The plastic ones are less desired as they can crack in the middle. In regard to notliving's post, my experience with buying parts is that there usually is a fuji supplied HG with aftermarket brands. I can assure you this is true with fel-pro with ea82 and ej22e HG. Look for a fuji stamp on the gaskets (looks like a fat upside down nike swoosh, boomerang shape)

When i did mine long time ago the strut was longer than the spring, and i was able to mount the tophats without a compressing tool. However, overall, the strut was a tight fit. What i did was cram it in enough to get the bottom bolt in, and then placed a jack under the hub to lad the spring enough to get the top bolt in. You may have to persuade it thru with a hammer until you can get the nut on. Good luck. My application was 98 forester struts in a 95 legacy using the original trailing links and top hats. For your 90 legacy, yes you will have to drill out for the strut tops, or see if you can mount the 90 legacy strut tops onto the new strut. I didnt have this problem being the forester and the 95 legacy hats were the same. BUT, i did put fwd rear struts from a 95 legacy into a 93 legacy, drilling out the holes. I had to replace the struts because for one they came from a junk car for free, and 2, the 93 had failed strut hats where the rubber tore away.

Keep your existing 2.2 heads and bolt them onto a 2.5 block. The problem with HG failures in a 2.5 is not the fact that it is 2.5, but rather thhe fact that 2.5's use a MLS steel gasket, which the later 2.2 engines used as well. Any replacement gasket supersedes the original part number as an updated design.