MilesFox

Generally this symptom is caused by a bad or corroded terminals on the engine temp sensor. Assuming your car is SPFI, the sensor is the one on the thermostat with 2 wires and a green plug. If your car is mpfi/turbo, the sensor is brown and located on the back of the intake under the turbo. Try unplugging this sensor durning a no-start and see if that changes anything. Usually cleaning the terminals will solve it. Otherwise, this is a $90 part, or a pocket item at the junk yard.

I have thought of this. It looks like the first gen panels would fit very close in a 2nd gen body. I would suspect you would have to find a way to finish off edges, or maybe trim here and there. I would like to see someone do this.

The wiring in the car has a common ground. For 4 spealers there are 6 wires. Each speaker is going to have its own positive lead, and the front 2 speakers are going to have one ground lead, and the rear speakers the other ground lead. The chassis of the stereo should grond to the frame, and also thru the antenna. For having 4 negative speaker leads coming out of the stereo, you will twist the 2 rear leads and connect them to the common wire from the car side, and same for the front, tie the 2 negative leads to the single negative common wire from the car. The switched power should be one that comes on with the acc circuit.

Tere is no gasket beyond the mickey mouse seal. If it makes to feel better, apply a dab of ultra grey where the seam of the block goes behind the oil pump housing. There is a shaft seal, then the mickey, and just a round inner o-ring .This makes 3 total parts for the oil pump seals.

Nice car. I went through the trouble of bringing back an 86 gl coupe, fwd. Yours is quite a bit less rusty than mine. Looks nice! I hope you keep the car as a 'classic subaru'

This is very true. There are some types of vehicles i will refuse to work on, for any amount of time or money, mainly transverse FWD types.

87 GL-10 would be mpfi with 4 injectors. maybe your car is an 86?

IF you can find a better one, go ahead, but if you are stuck with that part, don't be afraid to use it.

I know i paid a premium for mine, but not an inflated price. Mine was very clean with matching numbers. I feel like i got a good value. I can find non corrosive rounds, but i also bought up all the surplus rounds while they were cheap and half the price of non corrosive. The non corrosive has gone up twice as much since i got the rifle. The ones at the farm store had no cleaning rod, sling, and the wood was worn and had graffiti scrawled on them, obviously used issued arms.

You could swap the 5 spd, keep the ea81 and put the 87 gl's intake on if it is carb, or if you are ambitions, swap over the SPFI if the 87 is fuel injected. The manifolds will swap, but you may have to re arrange things like the throttle, egr, and pitch bar bracket, and modify the disty.

I got onto them later. I tried to buy a chinese type 53 from the farm store, but the background check never returned a yes or no. They wanted $175 for it, no accessories. Then i found one from a private ffl at a show for $275. IT came with all the accessories minus the sling. There is a 91/30 at the arms supply in town for $400+ I would say trade the brat, If the rifle is worth mucn more now than what you paid for it. I guess the only toss up is what it would cost you to replace the rifle if you wanted one again.

Ha, I just got one of these. Sorry, i do not have a brat to trade, but if you have the dog collar sling for it, i need one.

IT can be done for sure. I have ea82 swapped an ea81 wagon, i have put several ea82 engines against 4spds. The argument is the ea81 is a more reliable engine, but with my experience, an ea82 works better with the 5spd. One trick to this is installing the engine first, then the distributir. You may have to re-clock the distributor and cut off one of the mounting tabs to clear the brake master cylindert. If you ditch the hill holder or find a setup from an automatic, you will have better clearance. You will have better clearance still if you ditch the timing belt covers inner and outer.

Be aware there is no way to use the impreza rear suspension on the ea82. this is where you need the xt6 part exclusively. You can fit coilover springs on the rear struts. I have a set of eibach on mine. Yes, i do have 5 lug, but the rear strut between the xt6 and the ea82 i the same. I had to fashion a bushing for the top hat, but it works like it is supposed to. good luck

XT6 rear hubs and brake hardware. xt6 front hubs and axles if your trans is turbo mt or 4eat, otherwise swap axle cups from a 3at turbo onto the xt6 axle. You can source impreza parts from a fwd 5spd impreza for the axles and anything else for the knuckle an hubs. You will have to grind out the ball joint holes if you do not have xt6 lower control arms. There is no substitution for xt6 rear hub at all. you must have them. they fit on any 4wd ea82 the same.

You may have to invent a circuit to actuate the vacuum solenoids to use the 4wd button. otherwise, it will physically bolt up if you use all the associated parts from the donor car. the running gear fits the same, but you need all the mt mounts and bolts to carry over. if the sedan was 2wd you will need to make a few holes for the diff hanger and make a carrier bearing mount. Disregard if the sedan is 4wd. all the body paneld from the front door forward swap over the same. the rear doors fit the same, but you have to swap the glass between wagon and sedan.

That bumper has been crossing state lines as of recently. It came from waterford wisconsin, moved to minnesota somewhere, changed hands a few times. I think this car originally came from down south. The bumper is a one-off build. I hope this is a running and driving car instead of a passed along abandoned project as the car has changed hands so far.

Check to make sure the filamentes havent busted off the MAF sensor. Also, check the vacuum line from the vac canister to the intake that it hasnt fallen off. Go through the timing procedure and make sure the belts haven't slipped.

The K should be an N. The 2nd k designates 4eat trans. http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Numbers_(VIN_codes)/Subaru/VIN_Codes

If the thread inside the crank sout is not ruined, you should be able to just replace the woodruff key and the affected pulleys and be good to go.

You may be able to re-stake the valve seats. If there is a crack between the vlve seats, those can be peened closed. Having the crack is normal, but wide enough to catch a finger nail on could allow for the valve seat to drop out. 99% another head will have the cracks between the valves. Even with another head, maybe it's a good idea to peen down the crack and stake in the valve seats, if you are having it go to a machinist anyway. May as well pull both heads and heave them done, valve grind and all.

They should be the same either way. I would go with the 2.2. I cannot think of an obvious difference.

You can remove and install the trans from under the hood if you remove the radiator and engine. Do this if you want to do a reseal on the engine. BUT IT IS IMPOSSIBLE to remove the engine and trans as a unit, unless you have an 8 ft tall engine stand, jack the car up a good 4 feet, and pull that rig out at somewhere between a 45 and 90 degree angle. I find it easiest to jack the car up on one side to remove the trans. You will want the torque converter to stay with the trans, if possible. You will have to contend with the exhaust pipes if dropping form underneath.

You could have expected that speedo cable to break if you knew better. Sometimes it is easiest to leave it on the trans end and change it out from the dash end, so long as your replacement trans had a cable. You might get away with just shoving it in there and making it stay on its own if you route the cable properly. an ea82 cable should fit as well.

Go with the aisin