MilesFox

10w should be good for some -14 degrees, but 5w30 would be better for winter ingf you are doing the high mileage flavor. By mobil 1 high mileage i take it you mean full synthetic vs the Mobil Super high mileage (semi syn)i

With the seal being pushed out, a faulty install compounded with a clogged PCV can lend to this. Too much crankcase pressure can force oil out. In my example, we did replace the PCV before the oil leaks. For 96 legacy L it would be an ej22. Look for the stamping just below the alternator on the engine block. This car is rock solid just dont forget cooling system maintenance and coolant flush.

Which city? I am in milwaukee. There are enough subaru folk in the area SEWSC group on facebook. Come help me swap in a outback trans for a 96 impreza 2.2 trans to you.

My old man's 98 forester just started to do this a month ago; losing oil from what appears to be the oil pump of front seal and a cam seal. 10w30 mobil super high mileage. once we fix it we would install 0w40 oil for winter and year round. What oil weigh are you using. A 10w may be too heavy at start up for 0 degree weather if it is that cold by you yet. Consider a 5w or 0w oil once you fix it. This would be a routine repair along with the timing belt. Ours is oil saturated, so a new belt will go with the repair.

I had a mysteripus brake fluid loss in a 1995 legacy outbaqck to later discover it was leaking form a plug on the bottom of the ABS module and leaking down into the framerail under the airbox

Not subaru related, but i had an oil bay customer with a toyota dual vvt engine who declined the recommended synthetic oil because his car consumes due to a factory defect where the #3 piston rings were installed upside down.

There is so much steering axis inclination, at full lock it will hold full lock. I can see this with such sharp radius turning behind a tow bar. PErhaps a longer bar?

dat air pocket tho. Burp enough Subarus and you know better.

The V power plugs are great, with a split tip. IF you are into an iridium, you could go for the "G" power or their platimum equivalent. my ej25d 2.5 legacy outback calls for G power bk6 11 whereas the v power will car for bpr6 11 It is recommended to use only NGK brand plugs as that is the OEM supply and the engines are engineered with them.

my forester failed its 2.5 at 240,000 mi. I swapped a frankenmotor which lasted 5000 mi before detonation and excessive oil consumption did it in. So i did swap a 2.2 from a 1995 into it plug and play. The donor engine has 250,000 mi IT is worth sourccing a 2.2 engine. You will want 1995 or at least 1995 heads and intake to make it work plug and play with the EGR

I would first suspect a low coolant condition. Check the fluid in the radiator itself. I would not rule out a stuck or missing thermostat. Also, the factory fill dexcool can become problematic after 10 years as it starts to sludge and form silica gel in the cooling system. GM recommends a 60 mo or 150,000 mi service for the coolant using dexcool or equivalent.

It couldb e done with motor in car, but you want to raise the trans enough for the engine mount studs to clear the crossmember. This can be accomplished (for the sake of replacing a clutch disc. You are better off to get the engine out so you can properly torque on the flexplate or flywheel bolts to get to the separator plate. For this purpose. you could consider removing the trans instead. But the consensus is that pulling the engine is much easier.

One from an operable car regardless of miles is better than one that has been sitting. Low mile trans would be clue to this. Perhaps 150 and 200,000 mi trans is an option for around 300 bucks. Your 2nd option seems better if the price is right.

How about the dual tip mufflers from first gen legacy? 1 7/8 is correct for scavenging , and velocity. Keep the header and cats as they are. Consider a mid mount muffler in the center pupe (glasspack ( and then your 2" pipe behind it straight and 2.5 " as the exit taking place of the muffler. I would keep it 2" after the midpipe flange

my 98 legacy outback limited has the wood around the vents. I was told this is rare. my car does not have a sunroof for its trim level, but it does have premium sound and leahter, but no sunroof. I picked up a parts car 97 legacy outback limited with mo wood around the dash, but it did have the subwoofer and cd changer. With my car having the wood trim, i made a woodie out of it and made a hardwood floor in the trunk.

Subuaru is known for its indestructable A pillars. Even enough to challenge the jaws of life (as demonstrated with a subaru forester)

What brand of oil did you install and what viscosity grade is it? I believe factory fill is 0w20 but previous subarus historically called for 30 wt and 40 wt. I doubt this is the issue. The manufacturer factory fills with synthetic oil. By modern standards, there are no myths to apply with synthetic oil with todays standards and materials. Subarus do leak, it's a fact of life. Be sure to monitor oil levels to be safe. Have any troubleshooting procedures investigate the PCV system, as improper venting may pressurize the crank case and push oil out of seals.

So you are on the east side? I am in the riverwest hood. Nice score on a rust free western car. I was lucky to find an Idaho impreza for super cheap. (perhaps we can trade one day ). I work at an oil shop 'scrub-a-dub' on s howell at college ave. I have garage space if you ever need a place to work on your car, or the help. Please do take rust preventive precautions and keep the car washed thru the winter. Look me up on facebook locally "Miles Fox". Your s appears to be a 35th anniversary . I have the follwing: 96 impreza rust free riding on forester suspension and outback wheels 98 legacy outback limited woodie with hardwood floor in the wayback 98 forester lowered on impreza struts and 2.2 swapped, panel van idea with plastiu dipped windows and all white body 96 legacy wagon on ouback struts-cut and weld project in the making 86 EA82 3door coupe with RX driveline and body kit, 5 lug and impreza engine 97 outback wagon as a parts car, but is also a complete daily driver, hot swappable for parts for my other cars. It was to be parted out, but perhaps parted togethger with leftover parts to keep it aas a complete operable car the old man has a 98 forester, black with chrome wheels and 'subaru alliance' decals on the side. I have a 'SUBARU ALLIANCE' decal for you if we can catch up for subaru enthusiasm (old subarus get me excited){a 1998 is the newest i have ever owned out of a good 50 subarus) Anyway, Welcome to the USMB and see you around town.

The conditions you report are classic axle symptoms. If an existing axle was compromised by wear and dirt before re-booting them, then perhaps this existing axle is acting up. It is always best to re-boot your original axles before they become contaminated, but the vibration stopped in traffic is related to poor quality or sloppy axles. Ignore this front diff advice if your mechanic can't save face and replace an axle he attempted to fix. Here is a tip: The left and right axles are the same part. They are interchangeable. The automatic has a front differential, and a transfer clutch to the rear differential. There is no center differential. There is no transfer case. Proper nomenclature for a subaru symmetrical layout would be "All wheel drive" and "transaxle" If you do your searching about axles, you will find reports of the vibration issue. And clicking sounds is classic outer CV joints being worn. If the inner axle was worn, you get wobbling sensations and clicking on accel/decel

Did you find that on the south end of town. I saw a very clean one much like this on a lot in crudahy. Good luck with it. Hit me up at the oil change shop by the airport. I am your local subaru guy if you need a hand or a part.

In regards to a block sealer additive, this would work with a traditional water jacket leak into the combustion chamber where coolant is consumed. However, combustion gasses pressurizing the coolant system wont work as the pressure difference wont work. I suppose if there were some manual way to turn the water pump and manually pressurize the cooling system could yield a result, assuming heat of the engine running is not a factor for the formula to work. In my opinion, a block sealer only works with engines with a composite head gasket fro specific failure patterns involving coolant into the combustion chamber.

There is still another 100,000 mi left in it easily. Suppose the timing belt has lost some teeth and is out of time. This si a relatively simple repair fro anyone familiar with subarus. One could get away with installing salvage parts to keep it going. There is a strong enough subaru enthusiast presence in wisconsin. Perhaps find the local groups on facebook. Otherwise, you found the right forum with the best help you can get. I am over here in milwaukee if there would be the chance for me to lend my hand at it. This work can be accomplished in the driveway without removing the radiator. Search the youtube for "art of subaru maintenance vol. 2" to see examples of the work involved.

Thanks john. I did see your thread in subaruoutback.org when i was searching. From what i understand, the WRX has a 3.9 gear.

I have done some searching, but i want to get all my nuggets in one place, so here we go: 1996 impreza 4eat 2.2: 4.11 gear 1997 Outback limited legacy ej25d 4eat: 4.44 gear 1998 forester, originally 2.5 but now 2.2 swapped, original trans 4.44 gear. I am trying to confirm or deny these ratios as my 96 impreza is swapped out for forester struts and dual piston brakes. With anticipation of larger wheels, i have available to me to swap in a 1997 outback trans for the proper gear ratio. So what i want to confirm is that the 2.2 impreza has a 4.11 gear, and the 97 outback has a 4.44 gear.

Depending on how complete the harness is, the engine needs to see a VSS signal to rev out past 4500 rpm. The IAC is probably not seeing a signal from the engine temp sensor. If this were in its original car, the fans would run constantly if there were no input from the ECU temp sensor.