MilesFox

Does the valve appear to be closed all the way? Maybe the valve seat is dropping yout, and although the valve may be sealing against it, it is not coming back up to meet the face of the follower, thus leaving a gap allowing it to fall out. By this point you may want to consider removing the head for inspection.

Matbe running it low on coolant cause the HG to fail and now you have bubbles. Do they smell like exhaust> Is there an oily film in the radiator cap? The engine can tolerate a mild over heat once, but repeatedly, you may as well count on doing the HG's

you should be able to pop it back in with a rubber mallet. Then the issue is will it stay or not, as far as replacing the bushing.

My experience with subarus with 4eat automatic transmission will do this while turning tight circles. Sometimes more pronounced than other times. This would be a function of the duty c solenoid/rear drive clutches. First of all make sure all the wheels are the same size and brand, inflated the same, and all wheels are within 1/4 inch circumfrence of eachother.

If you did keep the car, that would be the best way to see the value of the investment put into it. In regards to selling used cars, say for example, you have a car that book values for $1,000, and you put $1,000 of work into it, it is still only worth $1,000. As far as selling for better and you can prove the maintenance, that helps. But generally, old car with low mileage equals has been sitting for long time, which presumes sitting rust, rusty brake and fuel lines, and old dryrotted seals. Personally, i would pay $1,500 or so, give or take a few bucks, knowing what it is and what i would be getting. But if i was selling the same car, I wouldn't expect to get too much for it, mainly because no one would know what the car is, or appreciate it enough to see my price, or just assume an old car is no good. Good luck with the sale though, hopefully a fellow enthusiast will find it for sale and make a decent offer.

Tear the heat shields off if they are too rusty, or use big dryer hose clamps to secure them and cease the rattling. This is common. Removing the heat shields will help prevent any rust through behind them.

All of these are good suggestions. If its the lash adjusters, consider the iop lump seals and or the cam tower o rings. Otherwise may not be anything detrimental, and easy to deal with

Try replacing the battery terminals. Maybe one is loose. I like to use the brass marine terminals with the wing nut for replacements. the alternator wire goes to the fuse box as fara s joining the rest of the harness, but schematically, it goes directly to the battery. If you suspect this cable is shot, you can try jumpering the terminal on the alt to the battery with a jumper cable and see if she pulls a charge.

Whatever you use for heads will determine the timing belt. As long as you are using 2.2 heads, the timing system assumes 2.2 parts. As far as all the pulleys and idlers on the block, those are the same between DOHC and SOHC.

Check the white cable that goes to the alternator. See if the terminal is brittle, as the wire may be failing inside the insulator.

I second checking for a broken rear axle if the 4wd seems to act intermittently.

Ditching the emissions stuff doesn't help. The carb will absolutely not run correctly without all of that rats' nest all around it. Your problem may as well be something electrical such as a vacuum solenoid, or one of the other fuel solenoids on the carburetor. One would need to understand the electrical schamatics the same as the vaccum schematics to figure this one out.

you might have clearance issues with the rear of the trans and the trans tunnel. BFH solves this problem. use the 4spds trans crossmember on the 5 spd trans

I have all of these parts. flywheel, driveshaft, pushbutton 4wd trans. Use them or i will have to junk them. the flywheel will need to be resurfaced as it is rusty. you will have to grind away the back of the bellhousing on the engine for the ea82 flywheel to fit. You will have to fabricate a mount for the carrier bearing in the driveshaft, or you will have to shorten your original driveshaft. My trans does not have a shifter, but the rest of it is there. Take it for whatever it's worth to you. I also have a FWD 5spd trans, but i parted off the shifter. that would save you the trouble of driveshafts.

Will the suspension drop down if you turn the eheels? Do the wheels bind up on the axle when the suspension is binded up?

I would think some sort of skit plate would be better than a full cover. Perhaps some sort of expanded mesh type cover that is see-thru and comes off easily, designed in a way that you do not have to remove the crank pulley to get inside. You can retrofit a factory ea82 skid plate to fit an impreza. You will have to make holes for it to fit on one end, although i cant remember which. i believe it should bolt up the the engine crossmember the same, and then you make holes in the front to fit whre the captive threads are on the impreza's core support. you could try fixing the pulley and installing the belt and maybe you escaped damage. If so, the work was not much to do. As far as timing belt reliability, you couls consider ej22e from 90-96 legacy, or just use the heads from that on a 2.5 bottom end. The ej22e is non interference and the cam pulleys are metal.

Your difference in part numbers may just be the pigtail on the sensor. all 87 and later spfi have the green connector. 85 and a6 spfi will have a round black connector. Either way, one can be spliced to the other if you happen to get the wrong one. make sure the one listed has a listing group of years such as 90-94 loyale or 87-94

Back to the temp sensor, did you change the 2 pin one on the water cross pipe with the brown terminal, or the single spade terminal one. The first is the CTS for the ECU, and the latter one id for the temperature gauge in the dash. Sorry this wasn't specified, but we assume the CTS for the ecu has been changed.

Timing marks go by the hash marks on the cam pulleys, not the arrows. The mark on the flywheel III represents all of the pistons are at the center of their stroke, not TDC TDC marks are not used for timing belt alignment. Only for a timing light.

If you can find a whole xt6 that would be the best bang for donor parts as you would be able to use all of it for the whole build.

FYI the connector on the CTS is the same style as the ones on the injectors. You can get a new pigtail, but i dont know where specifically, but online i'm sure.

I like to run 40 psi in 44 psi max tires. Follow the 10 percent rule. If max pressure is 44 psi, 10% of that is 4.4, subtract that from 44 and you have 39.5. Look at your tires sidewalls. Common knowledge is to fill to 32 psi. If the tire says 35 psi maz, subtract 3.5 and what do you get? 31.5 (32)

If you are staying with the ea82, you will want the following: full time 4wd trans with locking center diff, maybe welded, but you can use a 4wd dual range trans bing that you will have lo range You will need 25 spline axles for any turbo or xt6 trans(full time) or 23 splines for a dual range which the car has. you will need an entire 4wd rear subframe assembly from any xt, or 85-94 GL, DL, Loyale sedan, 3-door or wagon. Ideally you would want to use xt6 suspension so you can go with 5 lug hubs, modern 5x100 wheels, and modern coilover susppension based on impreza parts. From there, you can retrofit wrx parts and the like. So with a 4wd/awd trans, you will need the driveshaft. you will have to invent a bracket to mount the carrier bearing. You can tick a 4wd trans to run as rwd by removing a front axle, separating the spindle, and keeping the spindle in the hub for the wheel bearings. You can swap the ring gears from later models into the ea82 diff housing to get 4.11 or 4.44 gears. aside from the carrier bearing mount, 4wd parts are all bolt on. The same car can be 4wd, FWD, or rwd as it is with its existing parts. You can say you DAGF what i think, but really, what i know is something of value for you. That is why you are at the USMB to begin with?

You will have to put some threaded rod with nuts or similar since the compressor body joins the upper and lower brackets together. Otherwise the alternator will be 'floating' around as the upper part of the bracket only has one bolt that joins it to the top of the intake manifold.

I like this idea very much. More often than not, pinch bolts break if they haven't been apart as routine maintenance. I would consider this standard practice to be employed in the rust belt or for anything over 5 years old. Excellent idea!!