MilesFox

YOu may have an oil leak into the coolant, but not necessarily a loss in compression. Don't let the coolant get into the oil, or get low. I guess external head gasket failure imilar to the gasoline engines.

Do the oil pump seal along with crank and cam seals. The timing belt wil have to come off. Do the water pyump while in there.The work is not as complicated as it may seem. watch more of the videos to see how it's done!

YOu can pull the cam tower independently of the heads. The heads do not have to come off. To get an idea of what's involved, check this video. The lifters mey pump back up after the car runs for a bit and you have new seals in the oil pump. You may as well ditch the timing belt covers once you have removed them, as it makes routine work much easier not having to deal with them. The belts are less likely to fail uncovered than the covers will be in the way for something routine like checking the belt tension or inspecting the timing marks.

Search for "torque bind" or "Duty C solenoid" Perhaps changing the trans fluid may help. Make sure all the wheels are the same size and type, and all of them are within 1/4" in circumfrence from eachother.

The car is technically a part time 4wd. There is no center differential, but instead a PTO to the rear from the front diff. The car is FWD when 4wd is not engaged. there are, however "full time 4wd" trans that were in some RX, xt, and GL-10 models using the same transmission, which have a locking center diff. Later model subaru (impreza, legacy) trans (awd) would be this, but with a viscous center diff. The rocker (follower) may have fallen out during assembly if the cam tower has been removed, or perhaps there is a collapsed lifter, caused by either a bad o-ring in the cam tower, or bad oil pump seal (aeration) Check under the hood for the pair of green and white(or black) connectors up near the wiper motor. The white plugs are for checking the engine codes(the LED on the ecu under the steering column, drop the kick panel to find it). The green connectors are for cycling the fuel pump, and to hold the initial timing static for tuning. these connectors should remain unplugged for normal operation. The rings would be virtually impossible to damage, unless there has been standing water in the cylinders, (missing heads, plugs, submerged) If the engine consumes oil while running, suspect either the pcv system, or bad valve seals.

Would you consider the 2.2 heads on the 2.5 block? also, i have a running condition ej22e short block (no heads) with new seals and timing idlers if you need to source an engine.

I am that fox!

EXHAUST HEADER GASKETS. SOUNDS LIKE KNOCKING, OR EVEN A LAWNMOWER WHEN FAILED. REPLACE THE STUDS ALONG WITH IT.

They probably removed or loosened the radius arm mount, and there is slack in the bushing, causing the control arm to walk forward under torque.

the 7 flashes is just an identity code, I.E, AT, spfi, non cali model, etc. Perhaps the igniter coil on the coil bracket has failed. the coil comes on with the key. the disty uses the optical pickup to send pulse signals to the ecu. The ecu in tirn sends pulse signals to the ign amplifier on the coil bracket, which in turn breaks the field current in the coil to induce spark. The coil should zap a spark when you key off, or manually close and open contact to one of the terminals. Does the engine almost want to fire half a stroke the moment you let off the key?

It costs me about 20-25 bucks per day to have my car doing my pizza job. $4.00/gallon for fuel, usually costs 10 bucks per day. Car gets about 20 mpg all around, 50-75 and sometimes 100($15 in fuel)miles in a day 106.00 per month for insurance. about to go down since the last tickets on my driving record drop off this and next month a quart of brake fluid once a month due to leaky ABS module, oil and trans fluid now and again 95 bucks per year on registration night parking sticker $50 bucks for annual. So yeah i have 6 cars parked off street, but the 7th one has to park on the street. spread this cost average out over 3 cars, 2 drivers.

Check the fuses if you hadn't. make sure the little nugget hasn't fallen out of the inside of the cap. Check the pigtail on the disty. I would assume that maybe you dropped the steering column. there is a ground wire that goes thru one of the bolts. make sure that is there, and the ecu is mounted properly. MAybe you kncked a connector loose on the ign or fuel relays above the column.

I have swapped tracks between gl, gl-10 and xt. This was for the purpose of using xt seats in a gl. The coupe seats were best to fit to because you had the flip back feature. using gl-10 seats for xt seats lets you use the height lever. You will have to use a spacer for theback of one of the rails. Gl-10 seats, however swap in any gl non-xt your part listing for an 85 gl 2 door would be an ea81 hatch. The ea82 coupe came out in 86. so 85 2 door would be ea81 specific, although there were ea82 wagons and sedans for 1985.

Focus on the suspension swaps and the stance. If you convert to 4wd, the original 2wd rear struts will raise the back as they are longer because the strut perch on the control arm is lower on the 2wd. You can find FWD xt6 parts if you wish to keep it FWD for simplicity.

I have the opportunity to snag some pull-off wheels from a '13 BRZ coupe. The factory issue style wheels like this: https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRNhGyFfHe5fuitBA5g2YV-kW6GTtFZH279O-2_-Dm9usexZiNF He is offering them to me for $400 with the used rubber that is on them. I thought this is a good deal. $400 is more than i would usually pay for something, including whole cars. But i have paid more than that for tools! So this is why i am asking "what are thay worth" since they are pull ofs from a new car. Can and will they have an intrinsic value? Will people in 5 -10 years be looking for factory wheels to put on used BRZ's that have lost their shoes when they were new? Wpuld these be rare wheels by production numbers? I am going to put these on my swapped 3-door. Although i think legacy gt gold wheels will look better. But the price seems right, and i would hope there is trade value if i decide these could trade for something else. For the price, i am getting a set of wheels for what it would cost for new rubber on 14" steelies.

Perhaps it could be st wrong. Yes, you can lift it out and re-clock it. Make sure you don't get it 180 off. You can determine #1 tdc by observing the cam positions (with the outer covers off) for the compression stroke. The cams are out of phase being there are 2 cylinder banks and the engine is SOHC

I remember an example in finland and it was yellow. maybe you can find it in the archives.

Notice the rail on thebed. There were also extended bed brats in the euro market.

Edit: I realize i already posted here...

I don't care for abs since my driving habits were learned without it. I like to lock up my tires momentarily as i can predict the handling of my car this way. I also live in a collegie town with a lot of flatlanders running around. I may just resort to having someone ship me a whole module if i cannot find one from a junker locally for a good price. It only bothers me as much as all of my cars have some sort of air in the lines issues, being the last one i fixed the line on, i havent bled it out yet. The other one popped a line from the line rubbing on the tire, and the ambulance that i just replaced the rear brake lines on, hoping the font don't go and blow out. This is the part where i have 5 cars, but can only drive 2.5 of them at a time

the piece in the middle should move aorund enough that you can get the drift punch behind it and onto the 'corner' of the bearing. I made a video detailing this, but have to re-edit and upload it as my rendered file somehow got lost.

milesfox@yahoo.com thanx

If you could do the parts car up, that would be easier. I would suppose a 4eat already ea82 would fit an ej 4eat and swap ej22 without bellhousing adaptors

Drift punch. bang t hem out from the insides. Replace the seals, as this is what is causing the bearings to fail. The bearings should last the lfe of the seals.

I just need to know which line is which. I got 2 lines in to the module and 4 lines out. There is some sort of proportioning or splitter module on the trut tower. It sends 2 lines back thru the firewall. I was hoping to find a schematic before i take anything apart, as this is my DD car.