MilesFox

MY car had poor braking, found out the master cylinder had failed one channel, and i had to replace it once the whole thing failed. Now that i have replaced it, i have been mysteriously losing fluid over the course of a week. Now i lose it over a course of a few days. At first, i thought maybe i was losing the fluid where the reservoir meets the cylinder, since i had to swap the original res to the new unit. Well, yesterday i noticed that it is losing fluid from the ABS module, on the rear side of it where one of the caps are pressed into the valvebody unit. I had already disabled the abs unit by unpluggung it when the solenoid would freak out, and ABS never works for me in winter driving, Not being able to stop because of the ABS, not my driving. So i would like to bypass the abs unit entirely. I don't have a FSM to refer to. Hans anyone done this, or figured out a way to route lines to each other, tees, check valves, etc? Unless i can find a junker unit to swap in as a dummy, but i don't want to pay a premium for a device that ultimately will not function once installed.

I have bought disty caps cross referenced from nissan or whatever that go to the specific hitachi or noppondenso disty, and the numbering stamped on the cap was different than 1-3-2-4

This is correct, i just realize that i mis-posted and had to go re-edit my post. The dot will be facing the sharp corner of the valve cover Try to feel around with the gear inserting the disty for an 'in between' notch as you sort of have to twist it in to engage the gear.

If you are saying you have verified the timing is correct, i would assume you know to rotate the crank 360 after installing the first belt, before installing the second. Perhaps you have the fuel lines on backwards if you have removed them at all. The return side is after the regulator, the supply side is before the injector. The regulator is after the injector. The top most hard line on the fuel rail is the supply side. This only applies if you ahd the intake off for whatever reason, which you probably didn't anyway. Check that the rotor on the disty is not 180 off time. The timing would be set after installing the belts, starting over from step one with the cam at the top, and then rotate the crank until the o deg mark shows, then set the disty. for TDC, the disty should be pointing at the brake cylinder, just to the right of the rearmost clip or screw that secures the cap. The dots on the cams will be pointing at the corner of the valve cover, say 4 o'clock for the disty side, and 10 o'clock for the opposite side. The keyway on the crank pulley will be pointing down when the cylinder bores are centered (the 3 III marks on the flywheel) Rotation is counterclockwise and the firing order is 1-3-2-4. #1 cylinder is the front passenger side with #3 behind it, and #2 in front on the diriver side and #4 behind it. What references did you use for the timing belt procedure?

I would say given the car's age, go ahead and replace the belts. To make the effort worth the investment, take this time to replace the water pump, rebuild the oil pump (loc-tite the inner screws) and replace the cam seals as they most certainly probably are seeping a little anyway. Remove the radiator for better access, and take the opportunity to change the hoses and clamps with new coolant. Make sure to use a genuine oem thermostat, and since the thermo is on the bottom of the water pump, please observe subaru specific proper coolant fill and burping procedures (fill the block via the upper hose first, then the radiator) Depending on what you have for a tensioner, either one will swap in either's place, so log as tou have the mounting piece (specivic to style of tensioner) which swaps either way

citrus based cleaners work well for the gunk that forms on the steering wheel, shift knob, etc.

I could see there being 19 combinations of parts using same parts in either combo. For example, a 4wd wether it was a wagon, sedan, etc, as these had different bump stops, different spring heights or rates, the difference with 86/86 with the little mud flappers, and overlaps of year/generation 85-89 with brats and hatches being in the mix, and of course, fwd variants, and also xt variants, trailing arm variants with swaybar mounts. turbo swaybar vs xt6 swaybar, etc, etc... All using the same parts that all fit the same. The only incompatibility is putting a swaybar on trailing arms without the mounts, or adding 4wd parts to a 2wd subframe (the diff hanger mount)

IF the car is wandering around excessively, check the radius rod bushings.

If the OP suspects maybe the turbo has failed, perhaps consider the intake gaskets. Doing the heads ins not complicated on this engine. The intake is designed to come off as a whole unit all the way up to the MAF/airbox. Remove this first before attempting the turbo. If you are pulling the motor, the crosspipe and turbo can remain on the engine until you get it out. Same is true in reverse order, install the cross pipe and turbo before installing the engine.

I would run it from the output line thru the trans cooler before the return to the radiator and back to the trans. There would be the question to mount the cooler in front of or behind the radiator. My ford van had a factory unit which was mounted at the top of the radiator in the front near the driver side corner of the radiator.

Have you considered the knock sensor?

any 4wd ea82 rear crossmember is the same. even the xt6. if parts were scarce, you could even use a 2wd unit igf you fabricated the diff mounting tabs. good luck. If that part wasn't as rusty, it could be beefed up with tubing inserted inside and welded on.

Armor-All is a brand more than anything. a lot of the product is probbly licensed with the brand name from different manufacturers. As well with a lot of auto parts brands. I have used wd-40 to freshen up plastics as it dries up and does not leave a residue and is not glossy. WD is paraffin based, i believe. I haven't used it enough consistently to see how of anything is affected, but as far and making the plastics moister, it lasts a good 2 weeks before needing another application. If you like wd-40 the smell is not bad and it really doesn't permeate it he car to begin with.

This happened once to a car in ohio. It went to a mechanic for a 600 dollar bill, bent valves, and sold for 200 bucks. the next guy bought it, and fixed the upside down belt and had a running car with all the work done to it already. It then was swapped to a 4wd, and recently turned up on craigslist in another state almost 10 years later. Twice was it saved from the junkyard. Same thing happend with an xt6, had for 200 bucks over an 'upside down' timing belt.

+1 on the scotch brite. think of it as scrubbing the car so the paint will stick. basically take the shine out of the paint, and be sure to clear any dust from the surface. window cleaner works well for this. I have always spray painted cars with rattle can for lack of having access to real painting equipment. The most important thing with rattle cans is painting pattern, as you will systematically work down the car in several sessions as the spray pattern is narrow. Per gloyale's advise, spray up the car with primer after scotch brite-ing and give it a wet sand with 600 grit paper.

I see what you are saying by installing a belt to be able to turn the cam sprocket. You can remove the smrocket to take the inner cover off and perhaps grab the whole pulley by hand (re-install it) to turn it. If you remove the valve cover, there is a flat spot on the cam for which you can turn it with an open end wrench (17mm?) for the timing procedure, you always install the first belt from the top cam mark and center flywheel, and then do the crank rotation before installing the 2nd belt. the 2 holes on the face of the pulleys are meant for a spanner wrench

Much simpler than some transverse FWD. Yes, you have 2 belts, but thaat is what the 360 deg crank rotation is for. It is recommended to replace the water pump while there if you wish to invest in longevity, but it is not necessary for sake of repairing the belts. You ca do the work without removing the radiator, but doing so you may as well if you want to replace hoses and new coolant, esp. when doing the water pump. If you decide to remove the radiator, remove the clutch fan, and you can leave the electric fan on the radiator. LEave the upper hose with the engine, and fold it behind the fill tube. leave the lower hose on the radiator side, since the water pump end is easier to get at. You can swing up the alternator out of the way as described in the videos. You can indeed work around the ac components. if you see the videos you may consider doing what is demonstrated in them.

The shimmy may be a wheel balance issie. as fara s wandering, check the ball joint. I had one that was so bad the wheel would shimmy side to side at about 65 mph due to the loose ball joint.

Once hearing the news i was almost expecting someone from the forum to be invilved. close enough though. No body was hurt, but poor soob!

run them down the b-pillar behind the trim behind the seat belt, under the rocker sill and thru a grommet under the hood. maybe use a pigtail connector so that you can unplug the whole rig if you ever had to remove the roof rack. you could just ground the lights locally to the rack or the body of the car.

cam seals, cam tower o-ring, front sealsm oil pump seals. oil pan gasket. all but the rear main. easy enough to do if you do them all at the same time.

If you were moving to the rust belt, people would pay a premium for a rust free car. but texas isn't exactly the rust belt. good luck.

Here are some ideas: broken strut top bushing loose ball joint bad control arm bushing bad wheel bearings/loose axle nut

You actually can hotwire the ign circuit by jumping a wire from the battery to the + coil terminal. the car should turn on and make live the ign circuit. If the car runs this way, you may have trouble with the circuits on fuse #5 and or #11. Check to see if the set screw came off the rotor. make sure the rotor os spinning while cranking.

he piut the belts on upside down. tell him to ratate the crank 360 degrees after installing the first belt abd before installing the second belt. common mistake. Remind the mechanic that the subaru engine is not an iron duke, small block chevy, or briggs and stratton.