MilesFox

First i would say that there may be air in the system. There may be so if the brakes were not bled in a dual diagonal matter. It is possible there is air in the rear line, as in a manual trans car, it helps to keep the clutch depressed to bleed around the hill holder. The master cylinder can fail as i just had to replace on ein a 95 legacy with 235,000 mi. Try proper bleeding first.

Maybe you can swap around cranks and connecting rods to change the stroke or compression. perhaps you could use ej22 heads if they breathe better and the crank/rods make up differences for compression. Just an idea. I hear you on the survivalist mention. I once cooked an ea81 and drove it 45 miles with no water pump boiling the oil and was able to replace the HG using the same block and heads as it was. I am drinking a Sclitz right now but i go back and forth between PAbst blue ribbon. In milwaukee, of course!

The one on the intake is the gaige. the one on the radiator is the fan switch. the radiator has to be grounded to the wire near the hood latch for the thermo switch to work.

I think you read this post wrong.

145 lb-ft torque. Don't really need a torque wrench if you have a big breaker bar. Most importantly, the washers have to be oriented the correct way to hold torque. The flat washer is actiually a spring washer which is concave with the convex side against the nut.

could the valve stems be bad> had they been replaced? Had they been installed properly?

you will still need xt6 hubs to 5 lug the rear. the trans should fit using an xt6 mount. driveshaft does need to be shortened. what 86BRATMAN posted pretty much sums it up. make sure you get ea82 turbo manual or 4eat axles since 3at axles are still 23 spline, but 25 spline doj's will swap onto them.

Perhaps there are dropped valve seats. I have seen these from the cracks between the valve expanding too much. The one i had seen came from a running engine with a blown head gasket. IF the heads are trashed, you can still use the block and replace the heads. I would only not use the block if it has been excessively overheated, such as melted timing belt covers.

Perhaps it was low for a long time. I would just fill it up and if it drives fine, just top it off.

This comment doesnt explain anything but the obvious. The clutch pedal is on the left, and the brake is on the right. The hill holder is part of the brake, of course. It ties into the rear brake channel bridging the dual diagonal channels thru a valve ACTUATED BY THE CLUTCH CABLE. the spring on the hill holder serves as a retrun spring for the clutch pedal. Proper adjustment, presuming you are installing both cables or they are both backed off, is to adjust the clutch cable itself for actuation and free play, and then adjust the hill holder cable first to take the slack out of the clutch fork freeplay, and then final adjustment for the rear brake grab. The way the hill holder works is when applying the brake with the clutch depressed, the hill holder locks pressure to the rear brake (a hard as the brake was applied) while the clutch is depressed, even if you let off the brake. This holds until the clutch is released, such as when you are starting off. This is designed so that once you stop on a hill, you can let go of the brake and stay on the clutch pedal so you don't have to do a little foot dance or stall the car if it rolls backwards. If the brakes stick after reversing, the hill holder is too tight.

Yup, this is the trick for sure. those screws under those panels are for removing the whole dash board. that plastic trim for the defroster vents is part of the whole supstructure of the dash, and the rubber pad would come off from that, but not in any way it is meant to be removed. Since you asked, the rest of the screws are behind the pop iut panels on the bottom of the dash, and 2 screws under the radio behind the center console once you remove that.

I have used wd40 to freshen plastic or rubber. i would suggest silicone spray as well. I learned a trich from an old car dealer of using black RTV to fill tears, gaps, or holes in the trim. If the trim dangles you can hook it back onto their little plastic clips, and tuck them in the channels (door frame). The 3m super weather strip adhesive works great for securing loose rubber. I am not aware of any aftermarket sources, but there may be some NOS availability, i would assume. Chances are you can salvage a piece in better condition. Be careful not to rip it where the little plastic plugs secure the ends.

I would say the difference i the final gear and perhaps the tcu programming, or just the input from the engine (load, rpm, etc) regardless. Sorry i don't have a specific answer on this one. A n/a trans should be a 4.11 gear but do a search to make sure.

Sometimes the oil pumps will fail an internal seal, losing oil pressure. During routine maintenance, you take off the oil pump and loc-tite the screws on the back to prevent/fix this. Just an idea this may have caused your engine failure. not as common a failure, but easily preventable with front engine overhaul.

IF you can keep oil in it you should be alright. I had one leak at the pinion seal and it had locked up at least twice, but put many miles on afterward. At least immediately. Swapping in a whole diff would be less labor than doing the seal if you happend to just have a spare laying around. How long did it take to leak out. The example i had mentioned i had to add oil to it about once a week to 2 weeks. I don't condone operating wrecked parts, but this is based on my experience.

Be certain you are getting fuel. I agree the ignition amplifier on the coil bracket may be toast. IT may start again after it sits a moment. I have seen it intermittently fail mostly on cold snap weather.

you could theoretcally retrofit parts, but you will still need to hybrid or fabricate key parts, such as the length of the axle in the brat is shorter than any 5 lug setup. For the rear you would have to fabricate, purchase a cross bred performance kit, or salvage the rear hub and disc brake assembly from an xt-6. Do your homework on axle shaft diameters as it may be possible to hybrid an axle with parts based on diameter and spline, etc. The brat has a 23 spline axle. any 5 lug axle would have a 25 spline axle, although a 93 FWD impreza has a 23 spline. You could shorten the axle shaft and re-couple it or machine down one end. Even if you cobble up an axle, you may have to change an inner seal on the knuckle to match the particular axle stub. This is the real trick to 5 lug a brat. Peugeot 405 and 505 have the same 140X4 pattern and offers 14 and 15" wheels options. Doing the same 5 lug swap on an ea82 body (loyale) would mostly be a bolt-on affair as the axle length is wider like the later 5 lug.

you can swap in a manual crank in plaace of the power window. The fun thing about it is, if you were going the other way, the electrical harness is already there!

Thise appear to be injector seals for ea82 mpfi.The cam tower o-ring would be the size of a dime

stripped hub for sure. do some searching about axle nuts. I bet the washers were installed backwards.

IHI RHB5 from what i have seen

spanish for gold s 'oro', and for sliver is 'plata'. Sorry i can't take credit for that since i just looked it up.

I have had all of these years and if you average them out it would be 1987. 1986 qnd 1987 would be the most common years ,from some 30 ea subarus I have had and ones i have gotten dirty with. This is all firsthand knowledge.

The loyale for 91 and up had the automatic belts and the high center console to conform to SRS standards for USDM. The 90 loyale had a regular seat belt. The legacy had SRS automatic seat belts and a driver side airbag. The auto seatbelt was there to serve as SRS for the passenger. Unlike a 91 plymouth duster that had an airbag on the driver side with manual belt, and an auto belt on the passenger side only. In 2nd gen legacy, the auto belts were dropped for dual air bags.

I second the timing alignment. The arrows are not used, common mistake if inexperienced with subarus. Not implying, but worth a mention. good luck