MilesFox

fwd xt struts the car pictured has more of a ground kit and larger wheels than it is lowered. but gives the appearance of so. FWD xt struts are the shortedt of available oem parts, and there are no aftermarket parts unless you want to retrofit using parts from rare soobs to make the right combination, such as the car pictured. This meand retrofitting xt6 hub hardware and then retrofitting imprezza parts. you will still have to invent something for the rear struts. Read up, the info is documented here, but you will find that the platform is limited.

I would bet on the HG has failed before i would think the cylinder walls or rings are bad. any oil consumption is usually valve stems. I bet you a dollar you have nice crosshatches when you pull the heads. Becareful on the amount of torque on the HG bolts as ea82's are not TTY bolts. Especially if the block has been overheated. Use the oem procedure and a precise torque wrench. you can shorten a 17mm socket to get the head bolts behind the cams without removing the cam tower. Follow torque procedure.

Maybe there was a rats' nest hence the pine needles and debris. Definitely do the fuel filter. The ignition timing should be at 8 deg BTDC

This has happened to me before. use a long pipe and keep going after you torqued up the whole motor in gear with the driveline. You will have t be much more clever with an AT

Interesting, as by buddy's 95 legacy is doing the same thing. But it has been in a t-bone crash with body repairs.

Take off the skid plate underneath. If you have high enough jack stands or ramps, some of it is easier to get to from underneath if you can do it without being on your back. I like to take out the radiator for access. You have to remove the crank pulley to get the inner timing belt cover off, or just break it off. You can forego the belt covers when going back together. You will have to remove the crank pulley to install a timing belt cover. Covers or not is about a 50/50 preference with people on the forum. I would only remove the crank pulley if you are going to do the front seal while it is apart. The above advise about bumping a breaker bar with the starter is a clever trick. make sure of the rotation of the bar; be careful! I like to remove the radiator if doing a full front service to the engine. Read up about proper burping procedure when reinstalling the coolant so as to not get an air pocket and accidentally overheat. This is tricky but the proper procedures are well described.

watchthe other videos of the series for engine seals, install, etc. sorry, it does not ilustrate doing the oil pump, but that is easy enough to figure out if you have the timing belts off.

90-94 legacy sedan and wagon first generation.. you are probably thinking of non interference engines for 2.2 from 90-97 being the same engine in 2 body generations.

I would investigate the timing. perhaps the belt slipped or is missing teeth. has the car been serviced recently? You can check the timing by removing the outer covers on the ens and following the timing belt install procedure. IT is possible that if the car had been serviced, the timing belt is installed upside down(out of phase)

There will be a little slack on the axle stub. make sure the roll oin is in place. Make sure the axle nut is installed properly with the flat (spring) washer is installed with the convex side towards the nut. loose bearings is vague to detect with the traditional wiggle of the wheel. You should consider the wheel bearings as this would have been done during install of the axles.

Sounds like you need a different mechanic. The belt broke due to age, or a bad tensioner pulley. The engine is good till 300,000 miles before it was worn out. He probably meant the timing belts are worn out by 80,000 miles, which they should have been replaced by 60,000 miles anyway. keep the car, it is simple to fix. Consider investing in a few basic tools and doing work yourself. Try to get a partial refund from your mechanic since he took your money over false statements.

Go to u-haul and get the 13486 wiring kit.

I would vote for pulling the engine, but to pull the trans, remove the shifter, drop the carrier bearing and the driveshaft, and unplug all the electrical connections to the trans. Then you will want to drop the exhaust header pipe. Now you can remove the roll pins on the axles with a 3/16 drift punch. revove one of the ball oints or control arm link to allow room to slide the axles from the trans, you should have wiggle room to do the other side. From here you can undo the bolts to the trans crossmember and lower it down. Leave the crossmember bolted to the the trans. remember to make sure the roll pin holes line up the correct way when reinstalling. The trans may be hard to find the pilot hole and thus much frustrating wiggling. On the motor side, you may have to reinstall the pitch bar or put a block of wood in front of the negine to angle it back to install the trans. I would only recommend pulling the trans if you have a lift. Now you can see where pulling the engine is more efficient. You still have the same bell housing bolts, but you dont have to separate the exhaust at the donut gaskets, pull ball joints and axles, and tear the console apart to get at the shifter. Just the same 4 bolts and then the 2 engine studs, fuel hoses, coolant hoses, a few electrical plugs, and you have access to the whole motor if you feel like doing water pumps and cam seals, which you may as well do since the motor will sit in a milk crate of 5 gallon bucket

I wouldn't sweat the rust. you would have to be driving around in winter with road salts and not washing the car for 5-10 years before that would rust out. Try to find longer spring bolts. I experiened the same ordeal with napa spring bolts. try the bosal catalog at the parts counter. The donut is somewhat of a steel mesh/graphite/soft metal compacted wad in a donut shape. The spring bolts are designed to allow flex and keep torque. If you just use regualr bolts and nuts, they will come loose from vibration. Ideally you want to keep this junction intact for sake of service, if you ever had to remove the motor or trans. When these fail, people will weld it up, and then you have to remove the whole length of exhaust to perform routine service. When i installed mine, i tightened up the first bolt, and use a vise grip to draw the flanges together enough to start the 2nd bolt. the springs are completely compressed.

Check the ignition advance. It should be 20 deg btdc. To check the static timing, the green diagnosis plugs need to be connected. IF they are connected already, they should be unplugged for normal operation. the green test plugs are located under the steering wheel hanging out by the ecu for 1987 harness

watch. the. videos. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/135970-the-art-of-subaru-maintenance-video-series-ea82/ The videos detail removing the engine first(if you want to reseal it) and swapping an automatic to a 5spd (which illustrates the clutch installation)

25 splines. tell the parts counter 'full time 4wd' or just turbo with a manual trans. Don't count on the parts counter listings unless you already know them with the year overlap groups between platforms. anything you are looking for will be 88-94 with 4spd automatic. rule out any 3spd automatic listings altogether.

8 deg is correct for carb models. IT may have been set to 20 deg by the PO as per the spfi timing instruction. No harm done.

It is possible the switch has failed. Can you get it to work by pressing on or wiggling the knob? I had one that failed in a manner that i removed the knob, shoved a pen onto the peg and lased it up with a rubber band to make it work until i could replace the switch

oil pump seals, and don't forget about the cam tower o-rings. It is highly unlikely that the oil pump itself will fail. And it os most probable that the associated seals have never been replaced.

The turbo 3at's had 23 spline axles, but the doj is larger and the same size as the 25 spline units. Maybe your parts listing was confused with a turbo model with a manual trans, or the turbo RX model with the dual range full time trans. using a 23 spline 3at turbo axle would be considered an upgrade over stock.

I had the timing belt jump on me donuting in the snow behind a truck stop. 1995 legacy, coverless. In fact, this happened twice, exactly one year to the date in the same spot doing the same thing. I fixed it there on the side of the road. I had to bring the tensioner to a bench vise. Lesson learned: keep a spare tensioner loaded with the pin in case you have a belt failure.

the woodruff key on the crank snout will be at 6 o'clock position when centering the crank and installing the first belt. This position is relative tho the III mark on the flywheel.

you have an 88 with a carb? is the engine swapped, as it should have been spfi for the year. maybe it's a late 87? either way, if it's carbbed, look for 85-86 year listings for '1.8 ohc' listings

To make life easier, if the front axle fails again, just pop the roll pun and pull it out, leaving the spindle end in the hub, pop it into 4wd, and run around as RWD for a little bit.