MilesFox

You should not have to split the case or overhaul any internals as they wear for a long time and you will find that it has the crosshatches with high miles. Oil consumption will be related to bad PCV system or old seals . You likely have a 1.8 ea81. Don not confuse 1.8 parts at the parts counter since ea81 and ea82 engines overlapped in production from 85-89, with brat thru 87. To be sure, order for 81-84 listings only. nomenclature for the parts counter will be "1.8 OHV ea81" with OHV being the emphasis. Anything with "1.8 OHC" will be ea82's from 85-94 you will find that the parts counter may have listings for 80-84 which is relative to ea81 wagon and sedan. 80-87 will be specific to brats, and 80-89 will be specific to hatch, a;though all of these platforms share the same parts, with the hatch having the ea71 option. any listings that are 85-94, 85-89, and 90-94 will be relative to ea82's

@3:28

I don't see a mention of wheel bearing failure, so axle nuts are not in question. Do do see what you mean by the BFH and 2x4 method as this the technique that I use. I highly doubt this method compromises the axle during assembly. I would be of the opinion that the torque and rotation of the engine and diff bias the output onto the passenger side, and this side sees the torque first. Also, in driving in traffic, right turns are more frequent, and tighter than wider sweeping left turns. All of this is exaggerated by the 3 inch lift. My 95 legacy has outback struts, but no body spacers, and one of the axles just failed recently after about 10,000 miles, and the other one is on its way out. The passenger side axle was out on mine.

backlash in the timing belt can cause a jumpy tqch. something to consider since the disty is driven by the cam.

air in the system. proper burping procedure will fix it. The variable here is that you have opened up the cooling system several times.

your bparts will be resting on the engine crossmember behind the oil pan. Possible thru the holes and resting on the steering rack.

You would have a video in every other post. Might look like spamming.

replace it with straight pipe to exit past the bumper. It is quiet unless you are pulling some revs. it is almost noiseless at idle. you should get some gurgling and popping sounds on rapid decel

unplug the abs module

The victor gaskets are a higher quality gasket. I would use them. I cound never find them these days. Victor also supplies the graphite faced metal intake and exhaust gaskets

It would be easy to fix. worst case you may need a helicoil if you booger up the boss trying to remove the broken stud. Otherwise, save the quad headlight structures and their bezel as these are desireable parts. I myself am looking for a set. If it has a rear cargo cover, those are hot commodities as well. everything else on the car is more or less redundant with other models. you will want to consider salvaging more heavy mechanical parts such as axles, hubs, and manual transmission (if it has one). At least salvage things that are easy to mail away in a box as there are some parts of the country that are starving for otherwise redundant parts in soob rich areas. But please make an effort to save this car first! I would advise you to try to sell it as is to someone willing to fix it because the fix would be so simple, or someone may just have a motor laying around waiting for a god body. Give that a shot. You should only junk it if being impounded is imminent or the car is somewhere it cannot remain for long.

If the timing belt is broken, you will not get fuel or spark. Easiest way to check is to take off the disty cap and watch for the rotor to turn when cranking. You can check for fuel pressure by cycling the key off and on as the fuel pump will run for 2 seconds each time. If the fuel pump is not working while cranking, check for a broken timing belt.

The center marks on the flywheel are to position the crank and the cams relatively to eachother before installing the belts. It seems confusing with the cam marks, but you are installing one belt at a time, making a full rotation of the crank for each. any of the 2 timing belts are installed with the cam facing up each round. this results in the forst cam pointing down when you go to install the other timing belt. If you study the rotation of the works, it will all make sense. In regards to installing the disty, you will either do this before removing all of the timing belts, or after installing all of them. once you install the belts, rotate the crank so that the marks are in the same position you started with when installing the belts. From there, rotate the crank til you get your o deg mark, then drop in the disty. You should be aware of the timing belt video on youtube. just search 'ea82 timing belt procedure' or 'art of subaru maintenance'

I did gut out the cat on my 86 3door because the tail piece broke off at the cat and i had to weld it. The first time i gutted the cat it was on an carb ea82 with the cherry bomb at the midpipe flange and a turnout 2" pipe and it had better midrange torque. I give this more credit to the cherry bomb than gutting the cat. The subaru header y-pipe itself does a good job and basically does all the work being tuned to the engine, and the rest of the exhaust is just to take it past the rear bumper. just the y pipe and no other exhaust running open frees up a lot of upper rpm, but you do lose some torque. But it does breathe better. Then you put the glass pack at the end to restore the low end torque.

I gutted the cat on a 95 legacy and it ran super rich and got 18-20 mpg. I gutted both cats. Retrospectively, the o2's would have functioned better if i left them alone. Vs. hollowing the cats, o would try to eliminate them with a straight piece. I have the idea of simulating the cat with by using a cherry bomb at the header and making o2 bungs on either end. My argument here is that it fouled or misread the o2 sensors and thus ran rich. ou could fool the o2's with a resistor, but then again if you did that you could just eliminate the cats. I would say leave them be with a mpfi using 2 o2's. I think the argument for gutting the cats with a carb is valid. I would only gut the cats on an mpfi if one was failed and i had to salvage it out of lack of parts. The cat is worth more in scrap as a complete unit, vs the guts by themselves. I trued to turn in the debris at the scrap yard and only got 3 bucks for it. Otherwise the cat would have been worth about 30 bucks whole. If you want to play with exhausts, take my example and put a glass pack muffler behind the donut gasket in the mid pipe, and straight pipe the muffler. You can literally chop the midpipe, install the cherry bomb, and use the leftover section to replace the muffler with.

Check power to the green wire. this should be your constant 12 v. it should be a single strand of wire with a single terminal coming from the harness by itself. Of course you are missing the terminal. the red and black wire and the other red wire are for the ilumination. This is what would have shorted out and blew the taillight fuse. are you having trouble with knowing what wire is waht, or no power to your specified wire?

The front axle failed on the outer cv while delivering jimmy john's when my woman was driving it. She needs the car so i had to do something about it. I picked up an axle and attempted to change it, but i could not get the nut off since the whole wheel was turning since i was parked on ice and the axle is not engaged to the trans in park. When in gear, the axle was spinning in its cup making a buch of noise, and the car would not go until you gave it some gas, and sometimes it would shock the trans when the transfer clutches kicked in. So i searched for the duty c awd lock and found the black and white wire(pin 11) on the trans harness and snipped it. So i have been driving around as a RWD all day, no engagement problems, other than the trans needs to build a little fluid pressure off idel to engage the clutches. The dead axle spins at the same rate as the wheel, and only wants to make noises if the rear wheels are spinning out. This is a temporary measure unil i can replace the axle. So far i have about 50 miles of urban driving and nothing seems to want to fail as of yet. So when i replace the axle, i am going to repair my snipped wire with a switch. I thought i would post this as something useful to anyone who needs to keep drivng their 4eat after it breaks and axle. I was worried the front axle would fall out of the cv end and wreck the brake line, but so far that is not happening. Although this happens on ea82 cars, probably because of the sharper steering axis inclination. If the axle had or will pop out, i have a drift punch in my pocket to remove the other end.

use ea81 axles with 23 solines. order for a turbo brat if you want beefier ones. Ea82's are too long. the dual range is 23 splines as long as it is not from a turbo rx

Garage Moments: Subaru Frankenmotor build This one was produced using the out-takes and fun bits form the ej22 Subaru Mantenance raw tapes. Produced by Das Scmaus, who owns the vehicle in the demonstrations. Dude really needed a car so we had to opt for a rusty 2.5 as it was cheap and readily available. So we made the next Art of Subaru Maintenance series with the ej22e "We don't like wasting our time with Subarus. It's not that Subarus are wasting our time, but time with Subarus is not to be wasted!

We are all the same crowd. I had my spotlight on jalopnik during the BA/BE rally at No Problems raceway park for a 24hrs of Lemons Vs BA/BE drag races. http://jalopnik.com/5290384/break-out-the-calendars-lemons-versus-babe-rally-cars-at-the-dragstrip Props to jes-zek for the exclusive spotlight

I could not find any cross reference of this number 48107 with anything at u-haul or other manufacturers.

I saw one in traffic today.

see if you can find a part number and cross-reference it with the manufacturer. a lot of hitches have the same part numbers although the brand or retailer may be different.

A securely mounted stereo may as well amount to a wrecked dash. I have resorted to leaving my car unlocked at times i have no valuables in it. My woman has the car and i encourage her to remove the faceplate to the stereo. Her car gets rummaged thru once a month because she fails to lock it. One day the faceplate was missong in the radio. I found it the next day in the alley after it was run over. It still works, missing the volume knob. Replacing the radio is easier than the door, window, dash, etc. It's nice to know that a $200 car radio is worth about $20 on the street if you ever had to replace it with your own stolen unit.