MilesFox

dumb theif never realized he could have put his arm between the window and the frameless door to unlock it. no damage.

I wager it has a larger tank because the diff is fartther underneath it and the bottom is flatter. all of out old subarus always had 15.9 gal tanks.

Pac man was a joke in reference to the shape of the o-ring when it fails. I was not suggesting you have bad o-rings, but instead making a silly joke as the opportunity presented itself. I laughed at the picture you posted in response.

maybe you have a bad intake gasket. my 86 gl coupe did this. It would run enough to try and drive it, then stall, then take forever to start. Intake gaskets are worth considering.

Pac-Man is hiding in your cam towers.

put the seat back and remove the bolts in the front. slide the seats forward and remove the rear. There are plastic caps on the end of the rails. unplug the seatbelt warning wire on the diriver seat. If you have automatic seat belts, you will have to fish the end throught he little bracket. there will be a 16mm (5/16") bolt on the nner part of the rail that is part of the seatbelt clip. Not too hard to do. all you need is a 14mm socket. an extension makes it easier. As far as combating mold, i find that a liquid spray athlete's foot product kills mildew and keeps it at bay. the generic equivalent of tinactin will do. The rear seats are not difficult to remove. The lower part comes off at the hinges on the fotn parts, one bolt on each side. For the upper part, remove the bracket in the middle from the backs of the seats, and slide them off the pegs on the outer ends of them.

don't feed the troll

My dude used techron to try and solve a misfire issue. He ultimately replaced what was a bad injector, but the techron did help it run smoother until he got the part. If you are already treating with techron, you may as well not need the professional service. you onlyhave one injector anyway assuming you have spfi. supposedly the injector cross references with nissan if you think you should replace it. but i think the nissan has a higher flow rate. are you trying to improve economy, or just administering preventive maintenance? The alcohol blend fuel these days hurts the fuel economy compared to straght gas

maybe the crank sprockets are on in the wrong order. Usually the belts ride towards the inside of the cam pulleys, and are tracked in line by the tensioners and flanges on the oil pump and crank spokets. It does look weird on the idler pulley, though. The inner sprocket on the crank should have a flange behind it before the seal. you would never notice this IF YOU HAD TIMING BELT COVERS. This is why we ditch them.

maybe it blew out an intake gasket.

It looks like the bolts are bleeding rust. Gotta love them road salts. I spy a drop of coolant on the corner of the oil pump. Maybe the WP is leaking at the weep hole or the o-ring. In case you haven't noticed already. This picture goes to show how open belts keeps the belts from getting all that oil and coolant funk all over them.

As soon as i feel like i can drive through Indiana without getting arrested. I might be out that way come memorial or labor day or independence day this summer. I gotta make sure i can afford the trip and the time off. Hopefully i can make it out in my 3door coupe.

keep the motor running if power washing it. i can't imagine throwing a timing belt unless you are trying to do so with the power stream aiming it at the tensioners.

You could try reversing the hoses the the heater core to see if that backflushes any debris, then flush out the system. Or take the hoses off and route a garden hose through it backwatrds to flush it out. Definitely check to see if the thermostat is present. Being from the midwest, i could imagine some old-timer redneck technology may have been employed at one point or another. No offense to old-timers or rednecks, but that kind of general automotive knowledge must be thrown out the window when it comes to subarus. Tom knows what i am talkng about being experienced in both realms. As far as the hood goes, i would say you could make an attempt at it if you had a spare hood to chop up while preserving the original one.

I would vote no for the hoodscoop for 2 reasons: 1. it compromises the original paint/decal aesthetic 2. It wont look right against the contours of the hood with the ridge in the middle. you may want to chop out the middle of an impreza or legacy hood and graft it together to look right. 3. it would be fibbing about what's under the hood. this is my opinion, but each his own. I like to see original examples in great shape stay original.

The piston slap is a result of a change in design of the piston skirts around 1997. The trade off is a little bit more power and efficiency.

I once removed an ea82 with a tow strap and a 2x4. By my self. Your statement almost held true, but i did get it. I was kinda crazy at the time

Stupid like a fox! -homer simpson I'm not too bad for some who got kicked out of high school. The internet makes up for everything beyond that, but is never a substitution for what i already learned by then. There are college graduates who don't know the difference between here, hear, and heir, there, their and they're, and abuse apostrophes to death [(apostrophe's for example) yes, i know how to use brackets; i know how to use a semi-colon]. I have basically an 8th grade education, but i had a 12th grade reading level in my 5th grade standardized testing. My fellow classmate had a 4th grade level. I had basically 99% percentile, with my weakest points being math, but i better understand the abstract of it more than formulas on paper at a pre-algebra/algebra 1 level. Mental math works best for me. my typing is not the best, and any lack of capitalization or punctuation is born of using message boards. But i learned properly first, instead of using computers before i knew how to write in cursive. Thanks for pointing that out. It reassures me that i am as smart as i have always been, where i was afraid i was losing my edge out of lack of exercise of the old-school. nomenclature is a fun word. Now that i have typed this, it makes me want to go back and edit it into a proper essay with an inro, body, and conclusion. but i am too lazy right now. I once chopped a an ea81 hatchback and a wagon to make a 2-door wagon. I scrapped an xt in 9 individual pieces with a sawzall. Hopefully my comment is helpful to you, based on what i know from empirical experience

BRAT is technically an acronym. capitalization would be considered proper nomenclature. wagons, brats, and sedans are stamped out on the same platform. The outer skins are different, but the underpinnings are the same. If you can separate the panels at the spot welds, it's all a big pile of legos.

As far as it fitting, i am not sure.Maybe with modification. As far as it being different, yes, it is. The rear part of the tank and floorpan of the hatch and wagon are different. I would imagine you can swap out the sending units. But that is a speculation on my part. Mind you this was better than 10 years ago that i compared them.

I could do this with my ford pinto when i removed the rear shocks before replacing them with air shocks.

^^^This will work. You can also put a deep socket on the bolt to hold it still against the bellhousing window. This might be easiest with a 2nd hand to help. Good luck. Another trick to loosen the bolt is to ise a long breaker bar and but it against the battery side of the frame, and bump the starter. be sure to unplug the coil! this works for loosening, but you will hae to resort to the wrench in the hole to tighten it. Make sure to get it good and tight so the bolt doesn't walk out after it is running.

There are, you should use something flat like a long screwdriver or some sort of stiff piece of flat metal. you will have holes whre the bolts hold the flexplate to the torque converter.

Pop off the little rubber timing plug on the bell housing and jam a prybar in there. More easily done that with a manual transmission. There is a part number for a ring gear locking tool to hold the flywheel still. I would imagine it could work the same for the torque converter. I'm not sure where you would go about getting one, unless you can order it through the dealer's special tool list.

Really, if i were you, i would be looking for a 2.2 from 90-96, or 2.2 imprezas thru 99, if you don't mind having a car so old, but yet for half the price. But that is what i myself would be shopping for. I am not sure if i would be interested in a subaru too new for the reasons you have stated. But then again, subarus have their traits, although sometimes annoying, but rarely detrimental. Some issues are just a fact of life with owning subarus, but then owning subarus has its advantages. It is my personal opinion that subarus are best suited for the utilitarian type who is also handy with their own maintenance and repairs. Some people are not cut out for subarus, and subarus are not cut out for some people. As far as shopping used subarus go, maintenance history is most important. There is an art to used cars knowing what is good and knowing what is bad, and knowing what to expect either way. Good luck with your shopping.