MilesFox

1.This video was for demonstration purposes 2. The o-ring was the one there on the bench, provided by the guy who commissioned the work 3. The original tape was taped over, so this is an edit of 2 different sessions. 4. It does not leak or tick. The dab of ultra grey on the o-ring was on the outer edge. Thanks for watching. If you subscribe, you will get to see more videos involving ej22, headgaskets, and building it up as a frankemotor with 2.5 block with rusty cylinders. Please be critical to those videos when you get to see them, so that i can reply the car in the demonstration does delivery driving all day long and does not smoke. Let's see your cam tower video, thanx Sorry, don't want to be rude. The videos reflect the spirit of backyard auto repair since a lot of us with subarus are cheap or just hobbyists. This is easy for the everyday person to comprehend. It is up to them to decide on the grade of parts they want to use. At least i had a torque wrench to use in this video. The ea82 is something you can literally build in a 5 gallon bucket, put on parts backwards and it will still run. I'm sure you have been working on subarus since they were new in the 80's. Maybe you had dealership training. I have put enough of these things together in the least of ideal situations, but alas, all of the work has proven to be reliable. I would like to produce a better video, but the idea of the video video came with the need of doing the work, rather than doing the work for the sake of a video. Your points are valid, though. But what is demonstrated in the video does work, and nothing was ruined from doing so. If you saw the rest of the car this engine went into, you would be more worried about everything else. Putting oil on the 2 flat spots is something i have never thought of. Good idea. I suppose i can update the video with annotations to mention what you are pointing out. This video only exists out of a lack of one already being there to go look up.

As long as it has not been overheated, don't worry about a bottom end rebuild. The cylinders will still have crosshatches after 300,000 miles. Some people say that even honing the cylinders is not necessary when doing a rebuild, just new rings. Engines that develop rod knocks after doing head gaskets are the ones that were badly overheated.

Drive around in tight circles on dry pavement; parking maneuvers forwards and backwards. For the price, that one is not too bad if you would want to consider the maintenance cost, but you would really have to know what to expect and have the capacity to deal with anything. Otherwise for the money, make sure any car you are looking at has some sort of repair history. Private sell would probably be best to avoid any mark ups. Demand service records. But also consider rust. A clean body needing maintenance will ultimately hold its value over something well maintained but rusted out.

the 91 has obd1. 95 and newer legacy has obd2 which is standardized with modern code readers. you can buy one from under 50 bucks to well over 200, with the better ones allowing you to manually manipulate engine functions. A lot of auto supply chain retailers offer a code read for free or the scanner as a loaner tool. the latter method is easier and more reliable, provided you have access to a scanner

There is an o-ring on the head gasket that is relative to position of the o-ring on the cam tower. I have never seen HG's leak on these ea82's, but there was one instance where i have seen a cam tower o-ring blown out entirely that there was a steady stream of oil pouring out as the engine was running. this was an extreme case. I would be more concerned about anything dripping from the bottom more so than from the top.

That is still the same car from the last few photos.

ball joints rattle over bumps and potholes

I'll bet the cap came loose and caused the car to backfire out the throttle and stall. you probably need a new cap if it is still running rough. good luck

That would be the seam where thea cam tower meets the head. It would be wise to remove the cam tower and re-seal it, along with its o-ring. Here is a video. IT is not common for the older subarus to leak oil at the head gasket. But it is easy to confuse the cam tower for the head, as the whole head is 2 pieces if you count the cam tower. By answering this question, that makes me GOD.

IT is a noise suppressor to keep alternator whine out of the radio

Use a hair dryer or a heat gun as it will make the PCV lines easier to flex and not crack

Ok, i see, you are using a remote fob. I have this idea that the dealer installed keyless remote found in 2nd gen subarus should retrofit in ea82's since the part that plugs in-line with the ign switch is the same plug, and the rest of it splices into the body harness. This way you are using subaru parts and you can find them easily.

Ok, i get what you are saying. I would imagine it is supposed to work with the driver door and key as a master. As far as i know, any of these components are all the same.

carb and spfis are the same procedures. Other than optical vs mechanical disty, the only difference is carb is 8 deg and spfi is 20 deg btdc. Finding TDC is always the first rotation from the III marks when the disty side cam is at the 12 o'clock position. This would be either the first rotation in the Timing Belt Procedure, or the next rotation after completing 2 whole rotations during the timing belt procedure. 2 whole rotations of the crank equals one whole rotation of the cam/disty

If you are trying to add power locks, you can scavenge them off any GL wagon from 85-94 loyale. You are best off from 88 and up for an exact match. Simply carry over the door harness and plug in the extra leads behind the kick panel. The loyale does acommodate any accessory available on GL's that are not present in the loyale. If you swapped on whole doors with power windows and locks, they will just work.with no mods. same goes for the rear tailgate I recommed this as it is the cheapest option, and you are still using factory parts. If you are getting new actuators anyway, it is still worth trying to salvage a door harness. But then again, if you invent your own harness, rest assure there will be a plug on the body to connect it to and no further.

Remove the screws to the pull handle, pop off the bezel around the handle. The bottom of the panel pops off, and the top part hangs on the lip fo the door between the window. There are adjustments for the door handle and lock pull levers. You can access the lock cylinder and the outside door handle nuts from the opening pehind the door handle. IF you are removing the window, roll it down so you can see the bolts thru the opening.

Does this car have a wireless fob/remote lock? are the parking lamps flashing? It could be the factory alarm unit bugging out. It is dealer installed. There is a reset button above the hood release under the dash. Check the fuse panel under the hood and inspect the fusible link and the red and green square fuses. Check the wiring from that fuse box to the battery cable.

What are you getting at? There is a plastic vapor barrier there, and a bunch of bolts that hold the window regulator assembly. There is a rather large opening to access all of that, and a smaller opening towards the door handle. The speaker sits ina cradle that is removable. The harness for the lock,speaker,and window follow along between these openings. Are you contemplating a stash spot?

Lineup your marks so that the distributor side cam dot is up. then continue to rotate the flywheel til you see the 0 deg mark, then drop in the disty. the high idle sounds like a stuck throttle plate or cable. check to make sure the throttle cable is not adjusted too tightly if you had removed it.

loose hub or axle nut maybe. check the washers on the axle nut that they are installed properly. check if the nut is loose. please search for axle nut as the washer has to go on one way to hold torque. IT may be on backwards with the recent service and hence causing problems a few days later.

IT can go either way. in my experience, some wish-wish-wish sound occurs here and there at the beginning of it. I have driven bearings bad enough to hog out the knuckle. IT does take a few hundred miles to kill it entirely. I would be under the impression that a younger class of mechanics would have been trained on primarily FWD type bearings and hubs to which the subaru front hubs are similar, as there are fwd subarus based on the same design. It depends on if they have a lift and a press rather than doing it with a drift punch on the floor.

I would think thais has to do with the wheel bearing. You may notice the noise subsides while eaither depressing the brake, or turning in one direction or the other. MY car started to do this today, reaffirming the thought that it felt like it had a rolling drag of some sort. When the wheel bearing fails, the wheel sits cambered enough that the edge of the rotor rubs against the caliper bracket. Check for a loose axle nut as that can lead to this condition. It is not abnormal for the wheel bearing to fail, so replacing it should be considered routine maintenance.

If you can, you should do that. Even the cheapest most knackered subaru out there will have better body condition than anything in the rust belt. If you are looking locally, you are going to be compounded by small sales figures from when the cars were new, and any bought back then would have rusted out 10-20 years ago. Every now and again you will find a diamond in the rough. ANy jewels you may find were either immaculately kept grandma cars, or migrated from less rusty states. They do turn up, however. Most of them will be hiding in places that haven't crossed the digital divide such as craigslist and ebay. You might stand a chance at spotting one behind a barn or in a farmers field.

The drum you used from the brat is slightly smaller than the 91 loyale (ea82) but is mechanically the same. What you will discover if you do the brakes in the future is one side has different size shoes than the other. The wheel would have fallen off from a loose axle nut. The flat washer is actually a spring washer and must go in with the rounded side toward the nut to maintain torque. Perhaps the axle nut is loose. Double check the orientation and torque to 145 lb-ft. It is possible the wheel bearings could have been compromised by the loose nut,. The bearing is replaceable, but first you have to remove the axle, remove the retaining ring on the inside, and press out the old one and press in a new one. This work is easiest done by replacing the whole trailing arm if you do not have the proper tools or a n experienced mechanic. you can swap the trailing arm off any 85-94 subaru of the same body style. You can retrofit disc braes in place of the drums from a turbo model as all the backing plates and axle splines match up the same.

You can loosen the bolts before removing the belts. Teh cam pulleys just have a peg that lines up to the snout of the camshaft, whereas the crank shaft has a woodruff key. If you decide to do the front main seal, it is contained in the oil pump which can be removed and built on a bench. The cam sensor side of the cam seal will have a retainer that comes off, and an o-ring behind it. The opposide head has a round plate on the back that contains an o-ring ans well. Either side are the same part number.