MilesFox

Dont use gear oil in the engine. IF you think it may be lifter tick by particles or aeration, onsider a 0-wt oil such as 0w40. Knocking sounds cabn be from the torque converter to flex plate bolts being loose, if another motor was installed. Also, a flappy timing belt tensinioner can cause knocking sounds with backlash of the belt. A qt of ATF before an oil change is fgood to clean up sludge. So is using quality synthetic oil such as 0w-40. Often times if a motor is consuming oil, it is from sludge in the oil control rings and crankcase ventilation system, more so than being worn out. The heavy additives such as oil stabilizer are really meant for already burned out and knocking engines (overheated, run out of oil)

I had similar conditions (1995) to find the abs module itself was leaking out of one of the plugs on the bottom of the unit. Statistically, i have had 3 MC failures with EJ soobs.

Tow in fwd and in neutral. Do not operate in the 'false' neutral on the dual range lever as that can be detrimental if you hit a bump. This is all open diffs and FWD mode is FWD, and manual trans. You can tow 4 down or 2 up, or 4 up. either way with a part time manual trans.

Yes an ea82 fits. It can be easier to remove the distributor to clear the master cylinder upon installation, but this is relative to MT with hill holder, but a good tip to remember. otherwise it fits well. Use an ea82 radiator

I would guess that any buzzing or banging soounds is the ezhaust pipe. Mine does this. I would also guess any wobble in the wheel may be unevenly torqued or loosening lug nuts. If you had a wheel off recently this is likely. Inspect the rubber mounts for the exhaust pipe. 2 on the muffler itself, and one near the diff brackets. wiggle the pipe and see if it makes contact anywhere

You are correct. IT is really as simple as you interperet it. I would say the only trouble with taking the 6 inch bolt out is it will interfere with the battery lead to take it out entirely, but it comes out with enough wiggle room to remove the starter. It is not necessary to remove the battery lead to remove the starter, but may as well since you are replacing it. Otherwise, it is a pretty straightforward job; 2 tools, 2 bolts, 2 wires

MY 98 FORESTER HAS CLOTH HEATED SEATS

in my experience i would drive ea82's in 4wd on wet pavement at highway speeds on the interstate. I would give you a pass and say that you can drive a 4wd permanent car in winter given a. snow, ice, or wet roads b. Squishy winter tires c. breaking traction releases bind I would say you would have the worst time with parking lot maneuvers. suppose make wide radius turns to not cram up the 4wd

the 1985 and 1986 ea82t is schematically similar to 83-84 ea81t electrical schematics. This is assuming intake manifold and sensors and with any ea82t or mpfi long block. Possible to make a non turbo with XT motor. My personal opinion is, if you are adamant about making the retrofit, I would like to see if it works. Thanks.

I had used a 87 gl manual tans starter in a 96 impreza automatic. If anything, the terminal for the cable is clocked differently where your cable may be just a bit long or short, but works anyway. There is a stud below the starter with a nut. Remove the upper bellhousing bolt. The ground cable will remaon on the bracket, and the bracket comes off with the bellhousing bolt. Slide the starter off the bottom stud. let the back of the starter pitch down for clearance. Don't forget the small waire on the back of the starter terminal. And don't forget to reconnect it upon installation you will need 14mm and 12mm tools. The nut below the starter may be 14 or 17mm. For safety, remove the negative battery terminal from the battery before performing this work.

I have had to deal with failed master cylinders in 90's subarus seems like in a row with 2 of them and a spare installed as a replacement being failed as well. Practice dual diagonal brake bleed. Good luck

Did you do the timing belt marks correctly? REmember, thjat there is a 360 degree crank rotation between installing belts. Perhaps you are off a tooth. Ign timing should be 20 deg BTDC. Did you remove the distributor at all? The timing belt video is easy to find

There may be 23 splines on the impreza axle and 25 on the legacy. You would have to swap axles if so. Otherwise it should be a direct bolt in. FWDFTMPG

aIR POCKET IN COOLING SYSTEM. maY BE A HEAD GASKET ISSUE. bURP AND REFILL, AND do this often. Best use OWM thermos as it is twice as large as an aftermarket unit. Especially due to the location at the bottom of the radiator o the water pump. Not sure of all the air out of the system? Fill via the upper hose. Cool heat is an indication of an air pocket, low coolant, burp and add as neccessary. Avoid overheating the block. The 2.5 does have its inherent problem with HG failing between the fire ring and the water jacket. A new gasket superseded the old one and is a permanent fix. All of that old timer wisdome does not apply with subarus, So any of grandpa's tricks won't work or are not recommended.

I have had to replace seat belt reels. The ones in the console are a pair of reels tued together, and swaps as a unit. Just remove the center console to get to it. I had to replace mine because the ratchet inside failed. Also, subaru offers a lifetime guarantee on seatbelts. I am not sure of the terms to claim it, but it is stated in the owners manual.

the old man's 98 forester is doing this now, 205,000 mi. i had removed the outer covers and this rubber seal. I am anticitpating the front crank shaft seal, which part of the oip pump assembly. It's pretty easy once you get the belts off. As stated, replace thebelt and all the tensioners if due, or at least the belt if it has oil contamination.. pull out theat rubber seal in the mantime so the oil can drip out instead of contaminating the belt. That swollen seal wont go back together anyway unless you trim some out of the middle.

forester wheels FTW

Very nice. I am partial to 1995 2ng gen legacy as you have all the 0bd2 but no emission requirement (in wisconsin. ) 5spd FTW. Your car makes me moist (and jealous )

What ol do you use. Consider a 0w40 over 10w40 to free up some rolling resistance in the engine. Use 75w90 synthetic or semi syn in the front and rear diffs. IF manual trans the fluid MUST be 'synchromesh' or 'extra-s' that has a gl-5 rating

I have contemplated using late model rear struts in place of ea82's. I have a 5 lug setup on my 86 3door, with eibach ground control and KYB agx2 struts in front, gr2 in rear. I would think it is possible. Not sure if it involves unicorn parts. I believe it has been done beore fro the rear. ypi might be able to flop the ea82 moint one way or the other for fitment. But as you are searching here for an answer, the answer relies on someone having done this the first time to post it. That might be you! Good luck

^^ this. It may be some unicorn combunation of parts. What you need is the measurements for like 5 different axles and size them up. It will iklely take pieces form 2 types of ea81 axles combined with ea82 axles. I myself have never accopmplished this for lack of parts to try out. typically 2wd axles are larger diameter than 4wd for ea81. Otherwise have a machinist shorten up an ea82 25 spline axle at the spline end, or chop and welded together with a sleeve. Perhaps you should search on the australian subaru forums.

for the turbo engine its best to use a 40 wt oil. Pref. 5w40 or 0w40 syn. Do your research as you will find that "5w30 is not recommended for sustained high speed operation"

What you want is turbo axles for an 83 or 84 turbo wagon or brat, and wap your 25 spline doj cups to that.

In regard to napa brand, altrom is your oem supply, echlin is your median price, and the mile master is more your generic part. Altrom FTW for seals and gaskets. Bosal for exhaust gaskets For example, in regard to brake pads, the middle price brand is the same quality as the premium brand at the chain store, for less cost. And the napa premium part is not available at the chain store.