MilesFox

This depends on if the lifters are dirty and starved for oil. Doesn't hurt to try. Use some in the intake to clear out the PCV and carbon deposits. Generally lifter tik is caused by aeration (tiny bubbles) of the oil due to a cavitated oil pump seal or lack of pressure from a leaking cam tower o-ring. sometimes the lifters are just worn out or collapsed. You can make this determination if oyu had remvoed the cam towers and tried to squeeze on them by hand. If they are easy to depress, they may be worn. It is recommended to do the oil pump seal, and i would bet a dollar one of the 'ears' on the mickey shaped o-ring is sucked in and looks like a pac-man. This is usually the case with anything i have worked on. :EDIT: Here is a picture from someone's recent post. I just found it after mentioning the pac man, and then i notice this one has it too. I win a dollar

#21 EA82 Cam Tower and O-Ring

Compared to rust belt cars that one is pretty solid. The pinch weld behind the rocker sills are where the structure is ast. Inspect the rear wheel wells where the shck tower meets the body, and where the seatbelt bolt comes through. Check the framerails just ahead of the radius rod mounts where it curves up along the firewall. Inspect for rust-through on the seams of the rear trailing arms. I would wager that any rust that may be present is tolerable and even worth repairing, as i would doubt it is as bad as the average midwestern soob in driveable condition. If there is no rust on the shock tower than go for it. Any signs of rust through give it a pass, as there will always be better examples in the northwest

"Don't be caught dead sitting on your seatbelt!" -Uhaul You could jumper the wires together where it plugs in under the driver seat.

Consider doing the oil pump and cam seals along with the front main seal. You have to get behind the timing belts to do this. LEave all the covers off for future service. If you still have laks or lifter ticks, consider rebuilding the cam towers and replacing the lifters if the oil pump seals do not cure it. The front end of the engine is relatively simple to do. The cam retainers are removable so therefore you can replace the seals on a bench. The cam towers are relatively easy to do, but more difficult to do with he engine in the car, trying to not drop all the lifters as you put it together.

I wonder if the ign switch could have bad contacts. If you can get to the plug try connecting a spare and see what happens. ea81 and ea82 ign switches plug in the same

Can you produce a picture of the module itself and where it taps into the car?

try pushing it in as you turn it. I generally use a channel plier. But sometimes it needs some pressure to 'thread onto' the mechanism that pushes it out with the parking brake. You should be able to find a generic cube tool that is universal fit that goes on a 3/8 ratchet. make sure the parking brakes are released when doing this

Here is a tip: As long as you cannot see the trailer in the side mirrors, you can know that the trailer is straight behind the car.

After being used to driving box trucks for a while, i found that mirrors in cars were too little! Never-the-less, it is always good to glance over your shoulder to the blind spot when merging or changing lanes.

There is enough length in the bolts to stack a few washers between the body

Assuming the car is an automatic, the trans takes ATF dextron II/III, BUT, there is a front differential tat takes regular gear oil. A lot of AT failures can be blamed on the wrong or no fluid in the front diff. Be aware that there are 2 dipsticks and 2 drainplugs on all subaru auto trans. manual trans just takes straight up gear oil as the rear diff would. Manual trans has one drain plug and dip stick.

Get in the habit of using your mirrors as much as you can. hanging out the door or looking over your shoulder will be backwards seeming in orientation if you are used to the mirror. Also, if you were driving some van or box truck, you only have mirrors to go by. Typically a trailer is covered by the liability of the auto itself, as it is one with the auto whilst in tow, or is covered as part of the load in the car. The marker lights not working may mean you dont have a proper ground thru the ball and hitch.

You will get a lot more out of this car by putting in the work than you would with some generic pontiac sunfire or chrysler k-car, buick cantury wagon, etc. Have your mechanic visit this message board!

A shorter trailer moves quickly. A shorter trailer is easiest maneuvered with a longer vehicle, such as a box truck where the hitch is way past the rear axle. If you could extend the tongue, the trailer will not move as quickly. You may want to get a straight receiver so the trailer sits more level. Although it will not matter with such a small trailer, a larger trailer that rides like that is more prone to sway. Try opening the hatch when backing the trailer so you can look at it, watch its movements, and learn better how to anticipate which way it will go. You will have to be all over the place with steering input to back the trailer in one maneuver. reading you electrical problems, it sounds like the lighting module wasn't grounded to the frame. The pigtail has a ground with the white wire. You can spice a wire to the frame on the car end. Have fun with your trailer! I had one like that. It dod come with a certficate that was good to apply for title.

I drove an 83 gl from indiana to seattle. It was a rather ill-fated trip. The car came back under its own power a year later. Let's just say the car wasn't put together enough to begin with. The completion of the build required the trip itself to accumulate the parts to finish it along the way and when it returned. Tis could be the worst example to think of going out with welded tie rods, a ruptured gas tank, and bad tires.. I don't blame any mishaps on the car itself, but instead poor judgement on my part. If i were to do it again, i would only do so with my perfectly built 3door. outside of this, i have put 20,000 miles on a bad axle with no boot through mud, sand pits and daily driving and state-to-state travel If you make sure to not rn out of oil or coolant, the car can go anywhere

The car is worth fixing, as long as the mechanic knows what to fix. The valve covers may indeed be leaking, but not to be confused with cam seals that may get over looked, as that is more likely the case. It is more efficient to pull the whole engine to fix all the seals. The engine is easy to remove, and is the preferred method for a lot of repairs. The subaru is much different than the average FWD car as far as a mechanic's experience may be concerned, but is actually much easier to work on than any transverse FWD engine.

This should be true for all states as a tow dolly at u-haul does not have license plates, although any of the other trailers have apportioned licenses. However, here in wisconsin, trailer plates are not requiered for anything under 10,000 lb capacity.

Hight mileage is conducive to regular maintenance. It is the low mile old cars you have to worry about, either never been serviced, grandma'd, or just sat for long periods of time. Some of my better and best cars were 250,000 + miles.

#19 EA82 Knuckle remove and install #20 EA82 axle remove and install

I have pictures of that same ski wagon.

re-adjust the tension after putting some miles on them once they stretch and break in.

There will be some new additions coming soon which i will post on this thread. Next up will be ea82 knuckles, strut, axles, and wheel bearing. Then there will be ea82 cam towers mixed in with clutch, engine removal and install for xt turbo. Then the granddaddy of all will be the ej22 head gaskets/timing belts/seals/frankenmotor build At least 10 more episodes if not towards 15 or more once i edit down the tapes. A little bit of fun and crazy antics mixed in as well. In the mean time, check out my newest vids on my channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/MilesFox?feature=mhee

yes, whack the knuckle with a hammer. heavier hammer works best. This will be demonstrated in my upcoming continuation of the 'art of subaru maintenance' videos within the next few days.

The Art of Subaru Maintenance #18 EA82 Intake Gaskets Hitachi