MilesFox

Take the whole diff out so you can get a better whack at it

Wire wheel does the trick. What you will find at the hardware store or anywhere else is that 1.25 thread bolts are hard to come by and impossible in any appreciable length. These bolts are rusty because they thread into the water passage on the heads. Coat them liberally with anti-seize compound

If i remember right, this car is FWD. If so, maybe it has 4wd struts in rear. The 2wd rear struts are longer because the erch on the trailing arm is lower. Try raising the rear with 2wd struts.

87 RX, 87 GL-10 turbo wagon rx swapped 5 lugged, 88 GL sedan FWD AT<4WD 5spd D/R swapped, 88 DL wagon fwd 5spd<4wd 5spd d/r swapped, GL-10 turbo wagon d/r swapped. Zanesville, OH private land 2005 Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6 Part 7 Part 8 Part 9 Part 10 Part 11/12 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdDZjffN0DA Part 13 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbi5jgGgJpk

#01 EA82 Engine Removal: Disconnecting from the Body (Subaru GL DL GL-10 Loyale XT RX) L-Series The Art of Subaru Maintenance #02 EA82 Engine Removal: Mounts and Exhaust (Subaru GL DL GL-10 Loyale XT RX) L-Series The Art of Subaru Maintenance EA82 Engine Removal: Separating the Bellhousing, Engine Crane The Art of Subaru Maintenance #04 EA82 Flywheel and Clutch installation The Art of Subaru Maintenance #05 EA82 Engine front teardown The Art of Subaru Maintenance #06 EA82 Engine Front Seals (Subaru GL DL GL-10 Loyale XT RX) L-Series The Art of Subaru Maintenance #07 EA82 Engine Front Assembly (Subaru GL DL GL-10 Loyale XT RX) L-Series The Art of Subaru Maintenance #08 EA82 Timing Belt Procedure (Subaru GL DL GL-10 Loyale XT RX) L-Series The Art of Subaru Maintenance #09 EA82 Distributor and Ignition Timing The Art of Subaru Maintenance #10 EA82 Oil Pan Service The Art of Subaru Maintenance #11 EA82 Engine install part one: Engine Mounts and Bellhousing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NNuiEM-jOk The Art of Subaru Maintenance #12 EA82 Engine Install part two: Engine Mounts and AC assembly http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3wS6S_ndF0 The Art of Subaru Maintenance #13 EA82 Engine Install part three: Hoses and Harnesses http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SG4U6C53MrQ The Art of Subaru Maintenance #14 EA82 Engine Install part Four: Radiator, Fan, Belts http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5q0wruWzrA The Art of Subaru Maintenance #15 EA82 Engine Install part Five: Exhaust Gaskets and Proper Coolant Fill Procedure http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVgwmjpFGzU The Art of Subaru Maintenance #16 EA82 Automatic Transmission Removal http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxgTs0u5EB0 The Art of Subaru Maintenance #17 EA82 Manual Transmission Install http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_JUIH9axWk #19 EA82 Knuckle remove and install http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0UGaUEiWec #20 EA82 axle remove and install http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RrKLEa6wZn8 #21 EA82 Cam Tower and O-Ring http://youtu.be/3VuwB7TXNBU

So far i have the trans out of the 3door, both driveshaft/diff/exhausts off ov both cars, and the tt is ready to drop the trans. I will probably combine parts between the front struts.

Try an spfi block for more compression. I like the 85-86 models particularly.

MY buddy's frankenmotor soob was acting like this with #2 misfires. We did try and swap a known good MAF from the trashwagon and it seemed to cure it for about 10 minutes until you could feel the misfire off idle while accelerating. He is suspecting the injector is faulty. But also he swears that it goes away when running chevron techron in the fuel.

Sounds like there is an air pocket in the engine. Try filling the block thru the thermostat housing. inspect the o-ring whrer the upper hose pipe meet the water pump. perhaps give it a wiggle to seat it better. Perhaps replace the o- ring or put a little RTV on the o-ring.

Put a film pf oil on the rotating parts. start all your bolts first, and snug them down in a radial pattern. make sure the pulley will rotate as you go. turn the pylley several times to make sure it turns smoothly before torquing down all the bolts, once they are all threaded in.

ea81 is the pushrod engine, ea82 is the timing belt engine.

I would go for doing the HG"s only. Then if the motor holds up, go in and do everything else. The chances are the engien is 80% good based on my experiences, ias i have done HG's on soobs with milkshakey enginese, a lot of ea82t's. If you thought you had to split the case and do bearings, you would be better off finding a good lump to use instead of doing all that work, as a non-compromised block will see over 300,000 miles by itself.

I would like to keep with OEM stuff wherever I can. This car is put together in a way that you could have built it with off-the-shelf parts for 1989, excluding the ej222 engine, but it would be true with an ej22e.

pulling the engine only takes an hour, and you will be removing everything anyway. The only thing extra to have to take off to remove the engine vs just doing theheads is 4 bellhousing bolts and 2 motor mount nuts. Once you get to assembling the cam towers, you are going to wish you had the engine out. 2 men can lift the engine out if you don't have a crane. I have used a comealong on a roof rafter to pull engines.

I am mistaken. What i should have posted is that ej25 and 22 harnesses plug in the same. my baad:Flame:

the ej25d manifiold fits with ej22e. this would be the DOHC 2.5's and ej22's with dual ports

Give it a go. You could possibly have lower end failure since coolant is corrosive to the bearings. I have done HG's on ea82's with milkshake and they were ok.

you will be using the ej22 timing belt

Put in an ej, and try to build it with as much off the shelf stock parts as possible as you can combine years and models to get the recipe right. Then restore the original engine and put it on a stand to bring with at shows! In my opinion, if oyu bother to go with an ej engine, please bother to upgrade the transmission and the driveline/suspension to retrofit modern parts, or it will be absurd to drive with the stock 4spd and suspension. maybe you are better off keeping this one cherry, and chosing another brat to build a project out of. a 100% original car is something to be appreciated, and could possibly hold its value as a vintage car vs something swapped.

I am continuing to swap my 3door. I have decided to get the best value out of this monsterwedge xt and swap between the 2 cars, leaving the XT with stock xt6 components, while the 3door is receiving the following: KYB GR2 rear struts with eibach ground gontrol springs. I had to rebuild the struts and insert a bushing in the top spring perch as it was hogging out due to being larger than the strut shaft. These parts are swapped in already. Rear trailing arm, as the one on the 3door has a bad bearing. XT6 rear swaybar, as the 3door did not have the bushings or the mounting tabs present. KYB AGXII daping adjustable struts with eibach ground control springs. I may swap out the calipers if the rubber is in better shape. Front and rear braided steel brake lines Dual range transmission 3.700 with LSD rear. I will e using a regualr ea82 trans crossmember to clear the exhaust pipe, as i cannot use the hybrid xt6 member due to the '86 trans tunnel being too narrow. The driveshaft is being swapped as well, as the existing one is rusty, and the donor has new bu-joints with grease zerks. Maybe the front ales. Both are in equal condition, but the existing axles have scaly rust on the shafts. This all depends on how much labor i want to make of it. I the 3door already has an xt6 front swaybar, but the donor car has urethane bushings. So far i have the xt ready to drop the trans, and i have yet to unbolt the trans in the 3door. I am doing the trans while leaving the motor in the car because i don't want to be swimming in fluids. The xt will likely be for sale soon as a complete running car. My motivation to do the swap now is to get out of the garage and not have to pay for it, ans i may be forced out of it anyway in the near future(i moved out of the house, but negotiated 6 months to remain in the garage) I am trying to decide if i want to keep the 15" turbo legacy wheels and get new rubber, or use the 14" 94 legacy gt snowflakes which need new rubber, or 14" steels twith new rubber already on the xt. Or go balls out and get oem wrx or rs or gt gold rims 16" or 17" once i can pay for them.

use the dual port heads, and keep your original intake. The only issue will be if your car has an egr or not, and if the heads have the egr or not. There will be no mechanical issue other than a CEL, and it would only matter if your location requires emission testing. the egr is typically on ej25d with automatic trans, and the 2.2 heads from a 95 automatic will have the egr.

you can buy pre loaded struts for regular non-outback legacy. Be usre to save the original parts as people are always looking for outback springs.

I feel you on the rust. But if the bolt turns and i can get it apart, i will re-use it. Otherwise it is a pier of pliers to twist them off. I have salvaged oem clamps to re-use, but have them rusted out the next time i service the same part. I made sure to keep the oem clamps when restoring my 3-door

I always try to re-use the oem clamps if they are not rusty and come off in one piece. Otherwise for work clamps, i try to find the made-in-usa stainless steel ones as they wont blow out as you try to get that last bit of tightness. I am also a fan of CTB (constant tension band) clamps and try to salvage those as well. If i could find them for radiator hoses, i would use them.