MilesFox

The ATF in the diff will not hurt it as it will act as a detergent to help clen it up if you are changing it again. I believe the front diff holds just over a quart.

This happened to me once, after i walked 2 miles home and waited 2 months to tear out the timing belts to find it was just the loose screw. Here is a hint: The turbo e82 distributor fits and works the same, but the rotor fits on a d shaped shaft, also with a screw. You can consider tht if this one ultimately fails. Not to say that it will, though

If you drain any fluids, be sure to replace the copper washer on the drain plug or it may drip. You do not wnt to overtighten the drain plug trying to stop the drip.

The trouble is more to do with getting all the associated parts at once than the actual work. Youwillwant to veryify the rear diff ratio as a 5spd is going tobe a 3.9. You will need a 3.9 rear diff, the driveshaft, trans mount, and pedal/clutch assembly. It has been done lots of times and and the search function should find you some answers.

Generally the felpro hg kit is sold with an oem gasket.

I second this

The pol separator is part of the PCV and crank case vent. It is the trapezoidal shaped piece on the back of the case to the right of the rear main. If you get the fel=pro bottom end conversion set, this gasket will be included. It originally is a cork gasket. mid 90's engines have a plastoc cover. The older ej22's have a cast piece. IF you go to the dealer for this gasket, it is superseded with a steel stamped piece that uses ultra grey instead of a gasket, and requires new screws, which one of the screws is specific than the rest. Do replace the clogged pcv/hose. You can get these parts from the dealer which is recommended to fit properly. If not clogged, a lot of times these hoses are brittle and crack. They are made of vinyl. This will help with oil consumption and the oil itself's longevity. If you are replacing the hose and changing the oil, i would not worry about any detriment it may have caused. You should replace the cam and crank seals anyway.

You may have to add more fluid. My car got so bad that it would hang in first all day, hunt gears at slow speed, and then start to slip. It has always had a slight leak in the pan. But by the time i serviced it, it literally took a whole gallon of fluids. The torque converter itself holds several quarts. Although it may appear there is a proper level in the pan by the dipstick, the TC can be partially dry. Make sure the car is running when adding and checking fluid. Give the dipstick some time between readings to allow the fluid to wash down the walls of the tube so it is not a false reading.

The proper one for the ecu is the brown clip. The single terminal unit is for the gauge cluster

I'm not sure if ea82 seats fit, but the 3door coupe has the flip-forward feature. XT seats have the feature as well, but you will have to modify or swap the tracks to work

Here are some possibilities: Vacuum leak, perhaps a loose hose to the idle air control valve Idle air control valve itself may be stuck open. The engine temp sensor could have failed and the ecu thinks the car is cold therefore holding the IAC open. The IAC is the grey module near the side of the throttle body that has the 1" hose going under the intake tube just behind the airbox.

Welcome! Rustproofing, keep the rust off, rust proofing. Make sure the timing belt was done. Otherwise easy to do once you remove the covers; does not wreck the engine if it breaks. Consider the advice here about lifting suspensions and axle angles. There are plenty of examples! Don't freak out about lifter tick but do take the time to do the cam seals and oil pump seals as routine maintenance. Grease the caliper slides as often as you would inspect the brakes, seasonally before and after winter.

For the explorer there is a kit that plugs into the car's original harnesses. The weight on the axles is ideal as far as all the lad capacity goes, but keep 60% of the weight over the front. Consider the load in the car. If you are packing along luggage and supplies in the back, and don't have passengers, put the seats down and move it forward of the rear axle to center the weight more over the front wheels, as this is all of your steering and braking.

Being that the car is already turbo gives you that option as a n/a car would require a subframe swap or chop. maybe you should consider wrx ej20g as it is probably the most practical to come by. you should make it work first with a stock platform, then prove the car, then go to custom blocks and hybriding of parts from there. even a n/a ej22 is going from 90 hp to 135. That is better than 25% increase out of the box.

yes, it will all bolt up the same. either manifold will fit the same, but it is recommended you use the one original to the recipient car. If you are good, you can unbolt the ac and alt as a single unit and flip it to the side without disconnecting the hoses. There are stealthy bolts there so i recommend watching "the art of subaru maintenance" videos to see how it is done.

What kind of pigtail harness does this trailer have? I would recommend going with the modern 7-way connector that has provisions for the trailer brake, 12v, and reverse lights(if you desire them) The one at u-haul has a 7 way with a 4 way built in.(u-haul #20137) You will want to wire that in with a 3 way module that splits the turn and brake into one wire (part # 13486) The trailer i would imagine has an old school metal pigtail. It is a good idea to replace that with a modern 7 way that will plug right into modern vehicles that have a 7-way from the factory (ford, GMC) Going with a receiver style hitch on the car gives you the option to accessorize such as cargo platform, bike racks, even a bbq grill oh, here is an idea: On one of my cars i have modified a ford f-250 hitch with 2" receiver to mount to my 88 dl wagon which goes between the frame and the bumper itself. You will have to remove the bumper and drill holes in the frame rail to drop in the carriage bolts, and also slot out the holes on a hitch. Drop 2 carriage bolts thru the bumper as well. this will be stronger than the part you listed that just bolts up in place of the tow loops. Plus a 2" receiver is more versatile with accessories. I used a ford hitch as it was the one that fit most closely when i had a whole inventory of hitches to size up. Good luck!

Get plenty of practice. The scariest situation is when the trailer tarts to sway, and builds momentum exponentially. To recover from this is a delicate balance of accelerating to straighten out, and braking to bring the speed down, and some deft steering. Sway can be avoided if the load is balanced correctly, knowing the handling of such a load, and feeling it come on before it gets out of control. As brave as i am with towing, i'm not gonna lie and tell you that i wrapped a 2x12 around a lincoln town car at 45 mph at the on-ramp. The trailer was rear heavy. I have had 5x8 and 4x8 come un-coupled on be on city streets. I was lucky each time, and i chalk it all up as experience to know what NOT to do in the future. I have done donuts with trailers and drifted auto transports thru roundabouts. Accidents happen when you are not trying to be brave.

sounds like the clutch is not disengaging. Possibly the cable has stretched, or perhaps the fork is stretched. Try adjusting the cable first, or replacing the cable. Then go form there. I doubt the clutch is done if the car moves. You can always ************ the car off to get it into gear, and then drive normally. When the car is moving, it is possible to upshift and downshift without using the clutch if your timing and rpm's are right.

Well now that you are a member of this forum, you should be alright from here! Good luck and we'll see you again

People would generally object. Towing with a subaru gl/loyale is not recommended. But yet i have towed whole subarus with subarus (88 gl towing loaded down 87 rx with towbar 300 miles thru chicago rush hour). To each his own. The one thing i will say is doing so or not is based on the competency and experience of the driver. Having trailer brakes is a plus. I would not be afraid to to tow this rig with a loyale. The gearing is just right. If the loyale was heavier with heavier hubs and bearings, it would do just good. I have yet to hear of anyone wiping out while towing with an old subaru. Your biggest trouble may be finding a hitch rated for more than 15oo lbs. You will want a class 2 receiver hitch for 2500 lbs for this trailer. You may find yourself doing a lot of 4th gear at 55-65 mph in and out of 5th. Keep the rpms in the 3500 range Towing with a ford explorer is no better according to u-haul(i worked there for 2 years) For example, along with the rx on a towbar, i towed an 88 dl wagon behind an 86 brat for 85 miles on interstate highways. I have towed a monte carlo and a ford ranger in-town with a tow dolly behind the 88 gl sedan(fwd at to 4wd 5spd swapped). I have towed an empty auto transport trailer (200 lb) with the same GL. I once had the same gl on a dolly behind a u-haul, with a 4x8 trailer hitched to the gl thru roadblocks in a snow storm. If you search towig with a subaru on this forum you will see enough posts from me. Once again, i stress doing so or not based on the experience of the driver more so than the heft of the machinery. U-haul custom hitches are not custom made, but rather they are the worl'ds retailer outlet for top brands such as curt, valley, and cequent. avoid resse. There may no longer be a hitch available in the nationwide inventory. If you get a part number, it directly cross-references with the manufacturer's part number. Should you have a proper hitch on your car in a rental trailer situation, u-haul would limit you to a 4x8 or 5x8 trailer. not to exceed 2500 lbs including empty weight plus load.

To remove the ign cyl part, you will have to slot the heads from the creaws and turn them out with a flat screwdriver. The easiest way to fix this is just swap the whole steering column if need be. It is literally 2 bolts and a handful of harness connectors, and the pinch bolt under the hood.

How much can you sell it for? foresters tend to keep their book values well, not only for it being a subaru, but for others in the compact SUV market, although we all know that it is a tall impreza wagon! My folks have a 98 forester with about 180 on the odo, timing belts and HG's were done at 120, and we got it for 1750 when we could have easily turned around and sold it for $3000. If you can sell for 3 or better, take the money and run. Be aware, that if you put the cost into fixing it up, you may as well keep it, as any cost to fix it will not be seen back in book value; I.E., a $1,000 car with $1,000 worth of work into it is still a $1,000 car

I am going to guess and say that the front diff failed from lack of or improper maintenance, such as some grease monkey draining both the trans and front diff but only adding fluid to the trans, missing the diff, or adding the wrong fluids to the diff. The fact that they were referring to a 'transfer case' shows that they don't understand this transmission, as there is no transfer case, but rather a center differential (or clutch drum in automatics) built into the transmission housing that is driven from the front differential. A transfer case is something added onto the rear of a RWD trans to give output to the front axle. The subaru trans has front axles that go into the front diff housing, whilst having a tailshaft to the rear diff. The diff fails. They either replaced the whole trans, or replaced a used diff from another model, possibly being the wrong gear ration, causing more troubles and the trans fails again if the diff is a different ratio than the rear. By this time they notice the axles need replaced, which they should have been serviced much sooner. It is possible the axle failed many miles ago, but transmissions were replaced instead, and therefore burned themselves out. The moral of the story is a perfectly good car was ruined several times by improper or wrong service. Old-timer ford and chevy knowledge does not apply to a subaru. Your technicians were doing it wrong. typically with any subaru transmission failure is due to lack of or improper maintenance. Most general mechanics don't know the subaru trans has 2 dipsticks!

youtube "lost key 88 gl" it will take 3 minutes with a drill until you get replacement parts

Take a look at the fusible links on the strut tower in the little black box. the black one is the main. There should be a red and a green one, also. The headlights ground thru the switch.