MilesFox

Pull the solenoid wire from the back of the starter. Maybe pull the #5 fuse, or go underneath and unplug the fuel pump(or the relay under the dash) Maybe go as far as pulling the battery. Here in milwaukee, i have had the battery stolen out of my car 3 times. I make a habit of removing the battery if the car is parked in the alley for a week. But then someone comes and steals the wheel. May as well take the wheels off overnite...

If you do remove the intake, a deep wall 12mm socket works good as you cn brace it against the timing window for some leverage. The trick is to not round off the bolts. If you booger them up too bad, it might be a good idea to replace them. These bolts have a shallower head, and a different thread pitch than other bolts around the car. It is good practice to leave the TC with the trans, but if it comes out, make sure to read up on proper installation so you don't ruin the pump. good luck!

Good to hear! I had a ford van stolen from me months ago. The cops finally called to follow up, although they did not find it. I came upon it in traffic once, so i know someone is actively using it as their own vehicle. I'm sure the cops won't find it until after it turns up at the impound if it was used in some crime or crashed into something. You have better luck than me!

Being that the brat is rare in wisconsin, you may be better off selling the whole car complete as it is for a slight profit to anyone whoul would undertake the body work. this is just an opinion. Being that if i had room for a project, i would consider the vehicle for more than 50 bucks. It is still worth 200 bucks as scrap, in which case, save all the best parts before junking it.

I would go for burning oil smell. Mark that one for your vocabulary of smells as knowing different smells comes in handy for troubleshooting cars.

The black wire goes to the positive terminal. This includes the black wire from the distributor. The yellow wires from the car and disty go to the neg. terminal. The capacitor thingee on the strut tower connects with the black wires. The other pigtail from the distributor goes to the knock control inside the fender. (1985 and 86 models) The blue and yellow wires come from the transistor on the coil bracket and connect to the coil. I believe the blue wires connect with the black wires on the pos. terminal, and all the yellow wires go together. hope this helps. try "MPFI" with your search que

88 and up spfi engines will be the same. 87 and 86 years have a different plug.

any chance the timingbelt let go?

It is easier to slide the engine forward. this can be done with 2 men and no crane. But if you went that far, you can just lift the motor out. If you are trying to work from underneath, you have to separate the trans from the engine some 3 inches to clear the studs just to get in there, and by then you may have well removed it. You would have wanted to remove the axles from the trnas stub, which you would have had to undo the ball joints to allow the room. The axles are pressed into the bearing, so by removing the nuts, all you can take off is the hub and rotor but the axles are still in the hub. search the 'tube for 'art of subaru maintenance' to see some clever engine/trans wrangling

you could fit 2 of them and a motor. It is rather heavy and even heavier than some v8 rwd trans

In regards to frankenmotors, i just put one together. IF you can find a 2.5 as easily as a 2.2 to use the bottom end on, consider it an option. The one i put together with dude had sat in the back of a car and had rust on the cylinders Shall i say that it runs reliably and does not smoke! this was in a 95 using the stock intake and heads and ecu. witht this engien, there is the option for delta cams and headers as it already has dual ports and rocker valvetrain. So what i am saying is that a frankenmotor si seasy to do, and don't worry about cylinders or the bottom end. Do be certain if any donor ej25 had been overheated or not.

use the torque specs for the heads that you are using, regardless of the gasket. typically you will find suggestions to use the sti gasket in phase 2 2.2's and 2.5's that came original with the multi-layer gaskets. the older ej22 in 90's models used the composite gasket, which was never prone to failures the same way the newer engines are. Even when ordering a gasket for your specified model, any new one is superseded by an improved design. You should cross reference parts numbers between turbo gasket and whatever may pull up for your car and compare them with other models/years

everything will be bolt-on. You will need the driveshaft along with the 5spd. all have a 3.9 diff except for turbos with 3.7, and all have 23 spline axle except for turbo 5mt and turbo 4eat automatic. The trick with the pedals is to remove the steering column. plug off the vacuum prt that leads to the vacuum modilator on the AT. after removing the AT shifter, jumper the 2 fattest wires in the middle of the connecotor to defeat the neutral safety.

i just need one, but if there were 5 than i would have a whole set for spares. I should probably do one for now as that it is immediately useful.

I would suspect a intake gasket leak first. the #4 cyl may be lean. Intakes do fail and simulate HG problems, but without the compression loss. The valve stem seals may be the source of your oil burning. Try replacing the PCV valve.

any new hg for that model supercedes the original one and therefore should be a permanent fix.

yeah let me know. I will try to get with desmond about getting to the shop and rescue a flywheel and driveshaft for you if you are going to need it. i may or may not have a wheel there, but if you can get me a whole set, that would be ideal.

If you do need to come my way for a driveshaft or a flywheel, i'll take a 14" rim with 185/70 tire for it.

If you are going to use a block sealer, use the 'liquid glass' sodium silicate formulas. If it works and how long it lasts is largely determined by how well you follow the directions, using pure clean water, etc. I have used it with success. I would only recommend it as a temporary solution to buy you time to source another motor, save up some money, or accumulate tools and gumption to attempt the work yourself. It is a good idea to bypass the heater core when applying this stuff so you don't clog it up!

the xt6 and ea82 5spd are the same, the 7" is eaither a FWD or an ea81 if you get some weird cross references. Go for the xt6 as the pp is a little stronger. the er27 and ej22 are very similar in tq and hp

you are best to use the ea82 flywheel. You will have to transfer the 0 deg mark. You will want parts to match the trans. The clutch disc for the ea82 is larger. you will need this for using the ea81 motor with an ea82 trans. If it were the other way around, you can use a 4spd clutch disc with an ea82 flywheel, but not with a 5spd. You are also going to need the ea82 driveshaft, or have the original modified and balanced. making a carrier bearing mount is not difficult with flat stock and bolts. use the 4spds trans mount with the 5spd. the rubber parts will match the crossmeber holes. you may have to beat out the trans tunnel or cut some clearance for the rear part of the 5 spd trans. 3.9 gear will work

Maybe the mechanic left the towel in the block cavity between the cylinders and the water jacket, and missed it when installing the gasket. This would explain how it got there, and it probably would have stayed in one place and slowly dissolved, and washed out wit the returning oil stream.

The oil light could simply be a loose wire to the oil pump sender. check that first. IF the car ultimately fails or folds in half, it is still worth salvaging some parts are worth it if you intend on finding another one of these cars, or to put up for sale locally as subarus are rarer on the east side of the continent. I could imagine you are concerned the trailing arms will fold up with the rust as you describe. Too bad as far as the car could last as long as it hasnt't rusted out. At least you got to enjoy it and that matters most.

You are very welcome. I made the videos so something would be there when people are 'looking it up' I advocate that subarus are a good example to learn how to work on cars with.