MilesFox

Please tell us more about your 93 loyale. Welcome!

replacing the engine is cheaper than the labor for the heads as long as the engine is less cost than the labor on the heads. You would be pulling the engine anyway, unless the hg's were done in the car, which is more work than pulling the engine. 700 is not a bad price to do the work, as long as your mechanic is competent with subarus (reflected by his experience, not his price) Similar work can be twice that at shop rate

Don't forget about the fuel filter at the pump under the car just ahead of the passenger side wheel.

If you care to keep them just zip tie them if the bolts break. If you are not bothering with the front crank seal, just break out the middle one and leave the crank pulley on, as sometimes it can be a compromise if it is not tightened correctly, and it's much easier. The water pump and oil pump will thank you later when they ask to be replaced, and you don't have to remove all those covers again, which sometimes can be more work than the wp or timing belt itself.

Do all of the afore mentioned but do not bother pulling the block apart. If you are worried about the engine being too worn for the mileage, a lower mile engine is likely to turn up later for much less than rebuilding the block. You said cheaply and as soon as possible. slap it together and drive. expect 100,000 mi out of it yet if you do all that work. on the minimum, do this: cam crank and oil pump seals. Leave the rear main alone if it is not cooked and cracked. Re-do the oil separator gasket on the back. retorque and loc-tite the screws holding the back of the oil pump together. you decide if a new oil pump is desired, although it may not be necessary. do the oil pan. you can probably get away with leaving the HG be but might as well if the motor is on a bench. do the oil pan. do the water pump for sure. try to use new oem fit for the little hoses of death on the intake-to-block

This car will most likely be more reliable than a newer soob by design, as this model is not plagued by head gasket issues that the newer engines have. What you have for an engine is arguably the most reliable subaru engine to date. Don't forget about servicing the water pump. Most of the time a timing belt fails is due to the WP seizing, or bad idler pulleys(most often) when cars sit for periods of time, i.e, low miles times old age) Keep up on coolant changes as the coolant has a lifespan. It is designed to corrode the metals dissolved in the coolant as to not corrode the steel or aluminum in the engine due to electrolysis of different metals. Most importantly, the car will last as long as you can keep the rust away. Be particualar around the wheel arches. It is a good idea to once or twice a year remove the mudflaps and the rubber trims on the rear wheel arches to clean and wax this area, anywhere that dirt or salt can accumulate in the pinch welds. Same goes for the front fenders. When washing the car, open the door and spray out behind the fenders. All subarus tend to rust in the same places due to body cladding, and where the bumpers clip to the body. Also, make sure to keep the drain holes in the door seams clear so the pinch welds do not rust out. You have an ideal model because it is designed with OBDII for ease of diagnostics, but is not required to pass emissions in some jurisdictions because obdII wasnt mandated til 96 and up. As far as wanting and geeping a subaru, you got a very good example by condition, year, and design to start with.

The legacy would have been the better choice for reliability and power, but the loyale is not bad at all as a simple lightweight car. You just have to put up with it's little quirks as it is what makes a subaru a subaru to begin with. The biggest PITA with the loyale is the timing belts and cam tower leaks, lifter noise, what have you, but the car is simple to work on and any procedure involved is well documented here. forget the google search and search here as any google search will bring you here anyway. look up youtube for 'art of subaru maintenance' for the basic mechanicals and services for this car.

gat a water pump and a timing belt and be good to go. I will bet the timing belt failed from a seized idler or perhaps a failing water pump. Most likely replacing the belt will be good to go. Worst to worst, yu may need to do a head gasket, based on how it runs. But not bad for a 500 dollar car that is worth 3 times as much as a runner.

I finally cleared my PM's... hit me up:grin: otherwise email milesfox@yahoo.com or phone/txt 414-793-7728

check the stereo wiring and make sure the illumination wire is not grounded out (if you have an aftermarket installation)

85-94 fits. The GL-10's have painted bumpers. You will have to swap your marker lamps if using an 87 bumper. 85 and 86 will fit, although it has a flush marker lamp design, and is a little more sqaare, and you will have to splice the wires for the marker lamps. gl, gl-10, loyale wagon, sedan, coupe, all except for xt

the engine temp sensor is the 2 wire unit with the green plug for the ecu. the single spade sensor is for the dash gauge. The IAC is located on the throttle body and has the hose going between it and the intake boot. Soak some sea foam in that piece. There are plenyt of write ups for servicing the IAC

I would guess that either the idle air control valve is stuck closed, or the engine temp sensor has failed causing the IAC to not operate properly.

I would imagine the rag was stuffed in the pcv breather port on the top of the block, moved its wat to thepan, and disintegrated from laying in the sludge. If any had moved through the oil galleries it would probably have remnants behind the valve cover where it drains back to the pan. I would think you got lucky and any that made it up the pickup tube didn't get beyond the filter.

Thy are different although the bolt pattern is the same. for 85-89 you will get ea81 and ea82 cross referencing since both bodystyles overlapped those years. when in doubt, ask for one for a 94 loyale to weed out ea81 cross references. Depending on if you have mpfi or not you will want the 110mm or 105mm water pump. 105 for mpfi and 110 spfi, carb You can tell by looking at the pulley. IF the pulley fits over studs, it is the long water pump. If the studs are on the pulley and the pulley bolts to the water pump, then you have the short one.

I have a bag similar to that but it is the zip up version. I kept everything in it except what was in my tool belt. I was taking the drill in its case, but i used the bag to keep all the bit sets and tools that i would need on the job but not using them every day. I managed to carry all of this on a scooter to do a construction job. Depot has the square carry bags on sale for 10 bucks.

ben picked it up from the shop. there is a 5spd single range trans there. Less the dual range, all of the other parts are still there such as the flywheel, driveshaft, rear diff.

You already spoiled the surprise on dirty impreza:clap:

If you have doubt in the tool, shop labor is still cheaper if you pull the knuckle for them. This applies to the front. for the rear you will want to do it with the hub tamer tool because the knuckle would be the last part to remove after the suspension links, axle, then brake backing plate just to get it apart that far. I have no experience with a hub tamer tool but it looks to be the way to DIY if you are good at using tools.

It's a shouldered bolt so it will only allow so much squish on the gasket anyway. hand tight and snug is all it needs to be. Overtightening can cause the bolt to break, but does not afford more clamping force on the gasket.

I try to keep my tools grouped in different boxes based on the task. My example is construction tools. I have a husky carry bag that i keep my everyday hand tools in (hammer, prybar,tape, square, pencil, screwdriver) if i need one other random tool i will toss it in the bag to take with me. My milwaukee cordless drill set has a hard case for 2 drills and the charger, but often i just throw the one drill in the bag and take it solo since the battery is big enough to get me through any small job and i dont need the whole kit all the time.Otherwise i have a hard plastic box for my plumbing tools, and another one for drywall tools. for auto tools i like the little canvas bags for wrenches and sockets, on each for 3/8, 1/4, etc. This is easy for junkyarding. I like the smaller metal tool box for the angle grinder. I have one of the crappier canvas bags for my sawzall, and the blades are in a little case inside the bag. Think about modilarity. I have a menards shopping basket i use for caulk guns, or any other odd tools i am using outside of their set or bag so i am not bringing my whole fleet of tools to use only one from each set. You are not going to want to bring ALL of your tools all of the time isf tgere is any risk of theft or compromise. I never leave tools in my truck overnite. I live in the ghetto anyway, so i had to learn these habits where i normally would have trusted the environment i am at anywhere.

It could just be the vapor recovery nozzle on the gas pump. Make sure it seals completely. Sometimes you will have to hover the nozzle or hold it sideways or at weird angles to work. I encounter this now and again at other places that have them more and i am always driving old cars.

10mm is right. take out the pitch bar and loosen a motor mount and you can jack up the motor for more clearance if need be.

Here are some clues: when the engine is at the center of its bore, the keyway on the crankshaft pulley faces down. when the #1 cyl is at TDC, the timing belt marks on the cam pulleys will be facing the hard edges of the valve cover. The rotor on the disty should be facing the brake master cylinder, and the #1 position on the cap is just to the right of the clip/screw that holds on the cap an ea81 flywheel would only fit if the holes have been enlarged for the ea82's larger bolt, although ththe orientation of the blts is the same. the o deg mark os some 30 deg after the III mark

i would re-use them. they can go bad from age, hardened and cracked, but it's not like they get crushed where they wont work again once installed. If thay are still flexible, they are still usable. If in doubt, put a little ultra grey on them.