MilesFox

I was reading this post and realized this is the car that is sold already. frankenswaps are the raze these days with Shcmaus ending up with parts to build one by accident or luck.

Dont forget the clutch and flywheel and the bolts that hold it to the crank. make sure to keep the bolts with the trans crossmember as they are longer than the at. you will have to defeat the neutral safety with a pushbutton or jumper the wires in the console, and invent wiring for the reverse lites. although it is easier to swap whole driveshafts, only the front half is specific tho the trans, and the rear half is the same between mt and at, and contain the u-joints. the best axles to use are turbo axles for a 3spd auto sine they are 23 spline and will fit on the dual range non turbo. the pushbutton trans has a vacuum solenoid and you will have to hardwire it to your shift knob or a pair of ganged switches

I have done it this way. This assumes there is coolant in the block. I have started a dry block to add coolant immediately. ej's are particularly tricky with the t stat at the bottom. Sometimes it is helpful pop off a heater hose to bleed or even fill by the heater hose to get coolant on the other side of the thermostat.

Go for the estate wagon. you can swap between ea81 and ea82 generation cars fairly easily with little or no mods. What year are your cars?

There is a cir clip inside the cup if you are trying to assemble the bearing part. What are you hammering on? Did the axle pull apart?

One could suggest replacing the car, but the practical solution is to swap the 5 spd from the other car if you already have it. Then get a legacy but have both cars.

Liz expressed interest and has the $$$$ if the deal falls out. But Congratulations!. I have been eying up the landlord's impreza. Maybe in the future i could just give you the trashwagon back if i had too many cars. Good luck Matt with the ski wagon.

Would you trade back the trashwagon for it? just an idea. If i had the cash i would consider the ea81. Schmaus is looking for a car so i can point him your way.

I would recommend making holes on the flat part of the dash since there is definitely headroom for your 32 oz mac d's fountain cups. if you find some 2nd gen grand ams at the junkyard the cupholder ifts in the ashtray and is round enough to insert in the dash if you used a hole saw with a right angle drill.. If you had a loyale hi topper consoe from automatic seat belts, the fat rump roast fountain cup fits nicely inside.

I wanted to swap DL quads on my 86 gl coupe.

I like that color. It reminds me of my 85 gl 4wd sedan 'Silver Fox I' which was a more gunmetally color than the lightning likver (84 gl wagon) or the lighter champagne silver like that of an 89 gl-10 wagon. I would oppose of killing off the ski wagon original trim, but i do like the gunmetal silver color.

after 40 or so subarus, i find myself short-shifting this 89 ford strait six with the rpms under 1500. enjoy the rpm's. happy soobing.

check in the driver side footwell just behind the radio to make sure the vac lines are not loose. they are on a little rubber manifold, if you will. check the condition of the vac canister under the hood, and the nylon lines to it.

Be sure to get some silicone caliper slide grease. I use high pressure grease for the bearings and use dot 3 brake fluid. Remember to turn the pistons in when changing the pads; release the parking brake cables. It helps to depress the clutch when bleeding rear brakes if the hillholder is still connected.

You can patch the fender from behind and seal it up, and do some bodywork on the outside. The trick is removing the bolt on the bottom without breaking it, and replacing it with a 10x1.25 stainless bolt. Dirt and leaves will accumulate there holding moisture and causing it to rust. be sure to spray with the power wash wand inside the fender withthe door open or peel back the inner lineer to wash it regularly to prevent this. the rear fender rust is caused by the same debris hiding behind the mud flaps. you can remove the flaps and inner fenders once a year to blast out debris. It is not a bad idea to treat these areas with an undercoating product while you have it apart to prevent more rust.

2. do not engage or disengege the 4wd while steering. straight line only. do some backwards donuting. the only exception to use 4wd on pavement is heavy rain at highway speeds. the 4wd is designed to engage/disengage on the fly at any speed. This is a part time unit with no center diff so obey the rules and don't break your car!

I paid 80 bucks for q milwaukee orbital sander. My choices were dewalt $69, bosch $60, and black and decker $49. But i already have milwaukee cordless and hand tools, and i live there. If it's a one time use the cheapos will be most economical, but if it is enough work, i have seen them fail after just a couple hours. If it's a one time use, but you plan to keep it around the house, the black and decker will do, but dont count on it if you use it every day (at work) bosch is pretty good if the price is a few bucks cheaper. the rest in brand name really comes down to hobby vs professional for what you will want to pay.

I have a complete xt with xt6 suspension. Same on my 3door coupe. I am swapping the agx struts from the xt to my 3door, and the xt will be left with stock xt struts with turned rotors and new pads, but it needs a rear wheel bearing. I would sell the whole car for what the suspension is worth. The car itself would be a good candidate for an ej20 swap. I am in milwaukee. The car needs to be out of my garage by mid winter.

I would say break 8 out of 10 times, but i am in the rust belt! Take all the advice from the guys in the rusty states. If it worked for them, it should be easy for you. Take your time and do not turn the bolt faster than it can un-thread. the harbor freight tool will do the job. If you bust the bolt you can still get it out, but uou should remove the knuckle and do it on a bench, and you will have to use the pickle fork anyway. Do it now instead of later when it WILL be rusted stuck

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I would suggest some sort of radiant heat such as infra red heat lamps overhead. as long as the car body does not get colder than the ambient air, then you shouldn't have condensation. I learned this with video cameras in the winter. let the camer a get cold first so things don't melt to it! getting condensation on the finished paint wont hurt it, but you dont want it underneath. if you roll out rust-o over a water droplet, the paint may just go around the drop. It's not as technical as you think, but you still want to try and do a good job.

I used a 1st gen legacy alt in a 2nd gen by making jumpers with spade terminals. IT only needed 2 wires and the rest were unused. I almost blew stuff up figuring out which ones, though. Don't cook anything. Perhaps cross-reference schematics.

Tribeca = 2nd gen svx but as a minivan. no one wants it. bring it back as a sports coupe /opinion

FWD= Great fuel economy

IF you are in a moist climate try sweating any moisture from the rust by heating it with a torch around the lugs. Just be careful to not heat soak the hub and cook the bearing grease. Then spray a penetrating lube on it while it is hot to displace moisture and to soak in while everything is expanded from heat so it can work its way in.This trick will work if you know how to do it. The idea is to evaporate any moisture absorbed into the metal. Good luck.