MilesFox

swap the flywheel from the old engine and the longer bolts that go to it. there is one vacuum tee on the engine that went to the vacuum modulator on the new engine. just plug it off. it is located near the timing mark plug/pitch bar mount

Yes, you can do it this way, but the passenger side cam will be sprung under tension, and if it moves, it will flop over and be difficult to line up ny hand unless you can grab the whole pulley(coverless) or have the spanner tool.

you can ground that thermo sensor wire to the frame for fan to work

seals and belts are the same. turbos generally have the 105mm short shaft pump with studded pulley, n/a generally has 100mm long shaft pump with slotted pulley. This can be different based on what a/c system the car may have. seals and belts are all the same for all ea82 either water pump works if you have the associated pulley. you will likely go with the 110mm waterpump

you will have the wrong part. anything from 85-89 will overlap ea81 and ea82 cars in the parts listing. order the ohc, or just be safe and order for a 1990 loyale. all of the ea82 motors use the same timing belts, oil pump and front seals.

Just like the Baka light harness on Scott's car. You can essentially copy the harness. The real lays will be grounding at the headlight sockets (switch) and draw from the battery.

I might have one from an ea82 pedal set

i like it. i don't think you missed anything. you could leave the fuel line bracket on the motor side to not compromise the intake gasket, unless all of it is coming off. you can tuck the charcoal canister behind the oil fill pile along with your upper radiator hose. Your write up gets my seal of approval:clap:

if you remove the window switch, chances are the plastic bores for the screws will break off on re-assembly. guaranteed. i think the grey vanyle on the black makes it richer. reminds me of bmw or mercedes. what would really be dope is a chrome piping around the stitching in outlining the pull handle like a 1985 with black interior.

i had one of these that was a fwd 5spd. it was low mile, but rusted out. it was a junkyard resurrection that i got it running enough to drive once. you have truly a nice score. please keep it fresh and clean and treat it like a classic collector car, for how nice of an example that it is. being that clean with low miles is worth the asking price. see if you can get it for closer to 1500

i like the isea of a bad sensor. my 95 legacy is doggy and started to stall at stops. i suspect maybe the knock or temp soensor. she finally threw a check engine lite the other day, but i still have to pull a code.

i fund that depressing the clutch helps with bleeding the rear brakes, provided the hill holder is functioning.

wagons and sedans, yes, 3door, no. 3door has more rake.

Very crispy and clean. my 86 gl coupe is jealous. FWD 5spd Your cr is the same trim as mine, but mine being chestnut brown metallic #569. I have had a 1986 wagon that color, and i helped swap locks out on another example like yours in ohio. I am fond of 1986 with brown interior. I swapped partial brown into a blue 88 gl sedan for a richer faux luxury feel.

run the engine to operating temp. suck up 2/3 of the can until the engine chokes out. pur some in the idle air control valve and fill up the hose, cycle the key (run, not start) so it opens, do this several times. after sitting for at least 15 minutws, more is better, run the bejeezus out of it. dump the remaining can in either the fuel, or into the oil just before an oil change.

i vote for the valve covers and the grommets leaking, and the cam tower seam where it meets the head. puling the heads is un-neccessary if there is no HG issues. once you have the cam towers off, you can re-torque the HG. opening up the bottom end will be a waste of effort as you will see the bottom end will be in good shape. it is worth pulling the cam towers and re-sealing with permatex ultra grey or better yet, an anaerobic sealer, and replace the o-ring that is in there.

they called it a 97 loyale in #3. that is your secret 'easter egg'

my 94 legacy does this. i think it is the starter. if you tried jumpering it with a wire to the battery and it still clicks, suspect the solenoid. mine is usually worst after starting the car several ties in short driving trips, not so much the first start. avoid whacking the starter to not break the permanent magnets in the casing.

just leave in the font half of the driveshat from the output to the carrier bearing.

judging by the pictures and the location of the guge, it looks to be a fuel pressure that someone had added on. 200 euros (within 300 us dollars) is a great price for a complete car. I don't know about europe, but 2-300 us dollars equals how much the car would weigh as scrap metal if it was entirely junk. sounds like a good deal to me

Gas will burn. I started my 3door after it sat dormant over 6 months in a garage. From the fuel that is left over, the original full tank would be 1 year old. my honda rototiller fired up on last season's gas. I have seen cars run on that gas that was still in it after sitting for years

either way will work. the 86 gl10 is a 3at with part time 4wd. you can swap in a fwd 3at plug and play. you can swap the 5spd dual range ,you will have to wire in the reverse lites and or the neutral switch. you can defeat the neutral switch y jumpering the 2 fat wires in the shifter harness. all of these trans have 23 spline. all 3ats have 23 spline, and the turbo has 23 spline with the fatter cups that swap with 25 spline axles. the axles your car already has is considered an upgrade (turbo 3at) for any non turbo with 23 splines. it is as simple and actually simpler than what you are thinking.

it is easier to pull the engine. the trans can be lowered into the engine bay with a shop crane, and the front half can rest on the crossmember while a you jack/bolt in the rear half. installing the engine and trans together will be near impossible unless you insert the whole thing near vertical and don't ht the ground before you make the turn under the tunnel.

the engine management in the ea82t is too primitive to really do anything with. you wont be able to tune it unless you can reverse engineer it and retrofit from other models or outright invent things. #1 rule: don't boost it.

i always ask for a ford hose that has 2 bends. it is probably the same hose as mentioned^^^.