MilesFox

Someone would beg to differ. mechanically, these trans swap internals to some degree. someone may chime in. Altogether it is not a bad idea. Just don't drive the car like you are trying to break it.

there is a secret bolt. there is one 12mm bolt under the alternator. there is a 14mm bolt on the front of the block, and another 14mm hexagonal 'nugget' that you just loosen asn it acts as a rest pin. please watch this video for the easy way to remove this as a whole assembly. @5:45 here is the same procedure but going back together, showing better detail of the mounting points. @1:25

check that the spark plug wires are not reversed between 2 and 4 or 1 and 2.

I have an ej222 in front of an xt6 trans in my 86 3door swap. If you research, claims have been made that the xt6 trans is very stout if not more than the wrx trans. the xt6 trans has taller gearsets and 3.9 gear. think of the gearing as road course instead of autocross. the xt6 tans fits the same as any ea82 trans, using the same ej swap methods. you will have to modify the engine crossmember to clear the turbo up pipe

it is a direct bolt on, and the diff lock switch will be the 4wd. the vacuum diaphragm between both trans is the same. it all fits the same except there is no d/r lever on the donor.

I have a free van from a retired painter. This van is a 1989 gmc/chevy '20' panel van 305 v8 automatic TBI. this thing has only 88,000 mi, but has sat for the better part of 10 years. Since we had it, the crack heads chopped out the cats, and now it has a cherry bomb and side pipe. She runs great on the highway, but at part throttle acceleration, especially on hills, she stumbles and backfires thru the TBI. I have to feather the pedal, or completely bury it to get her to move. There is a lot of vacuum sucking noise, but i cannot find a leak or loose fitting. There is a broken nipple on what appears to be an EGR control solenoiid. This van has electronic ignition and coil packs. She has some original looking delco or autolite spark plugs. I am wondering if the timing is off? it drives as if the vacuum advance isn't working, but it is load sensitive, and an electronic disty. I am not familiar with these archaic american v8's as they are as foreign to me as a subaru engine is to any old-timer. the van seems to run right until it is warmed up, although it idles a bit higher than it should. IT drives like it has a vacuum leak. So, what is the GM TBI system sensitive to? is there some kind of thermo vacuum switch that fails? can an engine temp sensor throw it off, and where is it located. there is an oxygen sensor present, as i have located it on the driver side manifold. what are common problems and common fixes for this type of generic engine? there is an oil leak on the back of the intake. that will be fun to fix. I want to smack the general for using a 30 year old engine in 1989. Wouldn't you smack FUJI if they were still slangin' ea82's in the '12 wrx?

exhaust header leak for sure. you could recognize an ea82 miles away by how it sounds. be sure to install new studs with new gaskets. the metal backed graphite faced gaskets are the ones to have. Have your parts store counter person look in the BOSAL catalog for your part. also check the fittings for the egr pipe on the passenger side head as well, and on the intake end of the egr pipe.

how much do you want to blow up your engine? Don't do it unless your engine is built. You can probably get away with a little, but dong go doing it unless you have made improvements such as injecotrs, temp sensors, maf, etc, etc, etc. sell and get wrx

you can just swap the font axles and be done. installing the engine and trans together will be impossible. you will hae to get a 12 ft tall engine crane and drop the whole rig in near vertical, and hit the ground before you can turn it into the trans tunnel. I have tried it, not fun, never again. the thing to do is build the entire subframe, suspension, engine and trans together, and then jack it up into the car, or lower the car body onto it.

there is a rubber plug that has vacuum fittings in the driverside foot well somewhere behind the center console. check there. also, make sure all the skinny lines from the vacuum canister are connected, and the one from the canister to the intake manifold.

no one should EVER call this rusty. those who do get smacked by a fox

replace the o-ring in the cam tower, as that causes lifter tick if it fails and sucks in to a pac-man shape. you should be able to wiggle and pull the hla free. It is probably stuck from suction with the oil behind it. There are smal holes near by you can shoot some compressed air to pop them out. Be ready to catch them!

I place the jacks on the pivot for the cntrol arm and trailing arm if lifting the side of the car. do not stand the car on the end of a control arm so that the suspension is unsprung instead of loaded on the jack stand.

check fuse #5

it goes to the elbow hose on the top of the water pump

don't do this if the car is rusty. place it under suspension components.

I would make it end at the edge of the seam weld and rivet in. maybe make it a little longer to serve as a drip edge. Wrapping it around may trap moisture. you could maybe use some sort of epoxy or butyl sealer between the metals to prevent water behind the layers.

the 95 outback legacy is desirable as it has obd2 but being a 95 is not subject to emissions in some states. This year has regular suspension, though, and the "outback" is the trim level with projector fog lamps and 15" slotted wheels. stick to 90-94 or 95-96 legacy, and just swap in the outback struts for lift, but not have to worry about head gasket failures if you stick to thee years. Don't be afraid of higher mileage cars as higher miles reflect being driven regularly, and some sort of maintenance has been done to have that kind of miles. Instead of miles, go for the least rusty example with the cleanest body/interior. I have a 95 legacy outback that was had for 500 bucks with a bad water pump, and now it is worth book value with new outback struts, brakes, and tires and some bells and whistles. It has 225,000 miles.

remember that i took all the suspension and you kept the motor if this was from the same xt6. It could be one that came from my stash years ago.

I saw your other post. this wheel you want to hook on the top, pull it downward, and push it on. you will feel the top snap in if you do it right.

Aluminum is very forgiving and can be hammered down to meet contours. you will want to install rivets in the middle and work towards the end. getting wet inside is no big deal as long as it can drain out. what you don't want is dirt, crud, and leaves hanging out anywhere as this is what keeps it moist and causes rust.

Please explain the year of your car s there are several styles of steering wheel. Please state DL or GL, or legacy, impreza, etc.

Transmission failure on that vehicle is common. Please walk away! We had an 01 town and country with 110,000 mi. I was expecting it to drop the trans in thenext few miles. We sold it for book value and it is still going. It did have a weird gyration when under load such as accelerating with a vehicle in tow. I convinced the old man to sell it before it had problems, and now he rolls in a 97 forester!

good idea with the rivets, bad idea with the expanding foam as it will harbor a rusty environment. find some sheet aluminum such as box truck or trailer skins. the less bondo it takes to cover up the repair, the better.

Could you go in and add dates to that history? I think i joined in august of 2000 on the old ez board. Some of the old ez board archives still exist on the internet if you look for them hard enough, but outside of control of the usmb itself. I was shocked and amazed when i found other subaru people on the internat as i was the only one i ever knew until then. I do remember billy c's sites about 2 or 3 years before i found the forum. This forum is unrivaled by any other than NASIOC, but is more genuine than the 'sock and quite fankly, more useful. And this forum is very well behaved compared to any other forums in general, even more so than some of the better forums. I believe it is the best behaved forum that i have ever read or joined. props to the staff.