MilesFox

do the head gaskets. I would only replace the block if it was severely heated several times by continuing to drive it ignorantly every day with no coolant until it doesn't work anymore. If it was just an acute occurrence, do the hg and be done.

whops, i forgot i already responded to this. I guess i was trolling... I had to break into my car at the impound as i left the key in the console when it got towed for parking at a construction site i was working at. I asked the lot attendant for a fattie screwdriver and wedged the window to get my arm in to unlock it.

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Run the heat while adding coolant.

do a 1-7/8" pipe before the glasspack, some after, and then you can go 2-1/4 at the tailpipe for sound

This is normal for a 3at.

try jumping a wire from the battery to the positive coil terminal. this will energize the ign circuit, and the dash comes on as if the key were in run. Do this and see if the LED on the ecu flashes, or try to start the car with the key. If it starts and runs, replace the ign switch or inspec the terminal it plugs into.

the timing belts are aligned to the 3 hash marks and not the o deg mark. once the belts are installed, and the rank has rotated 360 deg back to the starting point, continue to rotate to the o deg mark to line your disty. the am dots point at the hard edges of the valve covers whn at o deg. rotor points at the brake MC. #1 on the cap is to the right of the rear screw/clip. setting the disty gear can feel vague. you want to 'feel' for an 'in between' tooth to insert to. the test connectors remain unplugged, unless you are setting the static timing with a light, and to cycle the fuel pump circuit. there is a write up about the timing belts that has step by step pics if the video didn't explain it well enough. you may be a tooth off on the timing belt. good luck!

Maybe it is hydrolocked. pull the plugs and see if she turns. get a tool on the crank and turn it. maybe your problem is a bad intake gasket and not a HG.

I posted interest in your other thread with the 89 'loyale' FSM's I need specific ones to cover specific things as a lot of them are general between different years or models using the same paragraphs or diagrams. I am trying to compile a database web based searchable fsm. I will be looking for the following (ea82) for now 1985 or 86 gl electrical 1987 electrical the 89 electrical book you have covers the rest 85 or 86 xt electrical i already have a c0mplete 1988 xt fsm, and a 1987 xt as well. if you have more that go to these years let me know

There are a few active threads on the subject and billions more in the archives. search "art of subaru maintenance" as the videos, although explaining ea82 maintenance and what not, was taped around an actual at/mt swap being the excuse to make the videos. the best thing you an do is get a donor car for scrap price, and you have all the parts. or you can send me $300 bucks and i have a complete swap setup all the way over here in wisconsin. yes, it can be done easily with no modifications, 100% bolt-on (in an already 4wd car) or with a few mods going from 2wd to 4wd

The ecu is not getting power. the transistor amplifier is independednt of the ecu. just above the relays are the ign and fuel relays. you will hear the fuel relay click when you turn the key. the ign(green) relay should click. try puling one of the AC relays from under the hood and swap it out. otherwise, like cougar says, check for power at the fuses so you know what circuit to focus on. Do you have an aftermarket radio? it probably will be a simpe miracle fix, if you can just find the culprit! anything to do with injecotors, spark, distributyir, etc will be dependent on if the ecu itself is alive, which is dependent on if the ign circuit is alive. you can test the fuses with a simple test light. make note of which ones light up and which ones don't when the key is on. the light should light up on both sides of the fuse if it is good, and on one side if it is blown, or no side if that circuit is not on/live. you will not need to pull the fuses to test them as they have little holes on top for a test probe. once again, you should locate the ign relay clipped to the steering column above the ECU

i forgot to mention this being the swap is going from an AT. in a 4spd it wouldnt matter. here is a tip: if you have trouble getting the axles off the diff or trailing arms, you can swap the whole thing. just change over the moustache bar, and make the holes on the recipient car for the trailing arm pivot larger to use the ea82 trailing arm and bolt. you will gain larger rear brakes, and they are a direct fit with the hole enlarged. about 75% of that 85 is swappable to the 84, with the remaining 25% being mainly the body panels. the swap will be something like building lego blocks with some tyco or mega bloks mixed in, but altogether will fit

can you bake that air cleaner to harden the paint? Maybe you should take the time to do the lower half. And the valve covers.

you will need an ea81 4spd 4wd or fwd 5spd mt trans crossmember to mount on the ea82 5spd dual range. swap the trans, flywheel, and 2 piece driveshaft. you will have to invent a carrier bearing mount. you might get away with using the ea81 pedal assembly as a whole unit in the ea81. going that far, you can use the ea82 engine if you like. use the 5 spds flywheel on the ea81 with ea81 flywheel bolts. notch out the bellhousing to clear the ring teeth.

throwout bearing. i a was assuming an MT by the symptoms and then you mentioned clutch.

have the timing belts been done? how long has it bee doing this. sounds timing related. nmay be the timing belt is a tooth off.

you can do it if you find xt6 air struts. the system works the same, but you would have 5 lugs. you would only need the front strut and knuckle, and keep your rear struts as they fit the same. You should be able to fit dual pot calipers on the rotors, buy you will lose the parking brake. ..and run xt6 wheels:)

the haynes book is not horrible. It does not cover axles or transmission. search here for repairs as it will be more helpful. if you search you can find factory service manual pdf's to download.

it could be oil on the block draining o ut of the spark plug well weep hole. look for oil around the plugs.

i have put deep cycle batteries under the hood.it will fit if you crick it in at an angle. for the shifter, just swap the boot. there is a stud present on the 2wd body for the mt shifter mount. swap the whole rearend as one piece. you will need the main piece of it anyway for the diff mount, and the trailing arms for the 4wd. you will get more lift in a 2wd to 4wd swap as the 2wd struts are longer, and it will sit up more than an already 4wd car. keep this car's original rear struts, and swap in the 4wd front struts.

maybe you are thinking of the moustache bar holes on n ea81 as they are threaded on ea81's. The 87 and up fits the xt trans mount, the 86 and under is narrower. I swapped an 88 gl sedan and had to make a carrier mount. same again with an 89 gl-10 touring wagon.

both heads are the same casting. it is possible to install the head backwards and still run..i have seen it!

Very nice example! Clever trick you got there. Yay for air suspension:burnout:

it probably bolys to a bench for waist height, or can be used free standing. I had wanted one of these. It is similar to my 12 ton dhop press. if you look at HF tools like this, you can see how there are meny devices designed around the same bottle jack, pins, and angle iron. It would be easy to replicate the design of this tool. I just welded up exhast on the bardin van. If we had a pipe bender, we could have done it for less than cobbling up pre-made off the shelf pieces.