MilesFox

slide under the dash and choke on the belt.

my 90 loyale also had manual belts along with no clutch safety.

wheelbase is the same. driveshafts are different because the transmisssions are differnet lengths from at to mt, ea to ej, etc.

Shoulder beltts passes as SRS for vehicles that have not engineered an airbag yet, mandated by 1993. I hd a plymouth duster with n airbag for the driver, and an automatic belt for the passenger. What a pile of mitsubishi/k-car garbage. IT was novel, though

bent rear trailing arm

I would like to see a picture of theis rust. Compared to some rusty cars i my area driving around, it is like freaking out about a common cold while everyone else is just fine with full blown aids.

just the front axles. all ea82 and xt rear axles are 32 spline regardless of the configuration. If you want fatter axles up front, you cn use turbo axles from a 3at, which has the same diameter as the existing axles, but are 23 splines as well for the new dual range trans.

IF you will be keepng the ea82 rocker panels for a while, i may want them for my 3door. I just have to get my budget in line, make my move 2 houses down, and bank my money a little.

yes, it is. You have to swap over the axles for this one, but you use the same clutch, driveshaft, and trans mounts. You will have to sewap the rear diff to match the d/r gear.

any 89-81 engine is a direct fit. the 92-94 is mechanically the same, but the pligs on the engine harness are shaped differently. You can swap the engine harness, or use your original intake. 1995-96 legacy and some 97 (brighton) have the smae engine with obdII intake, sou you will have to use your original intake. Same to say 89-96 ej22e will work. You will have to know what you are looking at with egr vs non-egr when sourcing an engine.

Yeah. I like the cherry bomb right after the y pipe flange in the midpipe, and replatcing the muffler with straight pipe(the leftover section from the middle! IT will have a stronger midrange Stay with a 1 7/8 (closest to stock) so you don't lose torque. You can go larger at the tailpipe for sound.

YOu are going to be looking for listings based on the manufacture of part. You had nippon-denso and hitachi distributors. There are probably 3 variants for ea81. Weird nissan stanza caps work on some old subarus, firing order numbered wrong, but physically the same and works. Cross-referencing is key. You will probably find these as NOS parts that have to jump throug several vendoors to show up at the auto store as "listed, but not available". But you could get a part number that way for searching.

you will have to delete the ASV valves on the back of the heads since the ports for them are not present on the spfi heads. OR, use the carb heads on the spfi block. set the timing about 10 deg higher and open up the exhaust.

The only difference between doing it yourself and a professional is a professional gets paid to do the same thing you can do yourself

I have done this. Then sold the car, then it was sold again, and was given back to me, where i junked it. It wore a vin to a car that i junked where i did not have to relinquish the title. Trashwagon9 was assuming trashwagon6's vin. You can do that in wisconsin and get away with it. Yes, i am announcing this on the internet.

It is going to have a reluctor style pickup and is going to be a super xpensive part for some 30 yr old nos part through a chain of vendors. It won't make any improvement unless there is something wrong with it already. You can go for a hotter coil, 8mm wire, and gap the plugs to .045, alng with an advanced timing cuve, open exhaust, larger jets, and perhaps a cam.

There is a dogbone mount at the front of the underside of the ngine. remove that, the upper pitch bar, drop the header, undo the motor mount nuts, and place a jack under the diff of the trans to raise it up. this makes getting to the lower bellhousing nuts easier. I have a whole xt6 motor with new head gaskets and seals 135,000 mi. If you want to make a trip to milwaukee, you can have it for almost free. The intake is a little weird to take off, as it comes off in 2 pieces. Beware of rusty intake bots that will snap if you torque them too quickly.

This one you have pictured is close to what my 'restored' 3door had to start with. You will be removing the pedal box to get it out, which is easiest if you pull the steerign column. I say paint and let it be. If you are really that particular about the aesthetics, it would pe practical to replace and paint he firewall, after the engine was out, if you were doing a resto to begin with. It's like plumbing, you fix one leak, then there is another, and from trying to replace one elbow bend, you are ripping out whole walls. Sometimes things re better left alone, but once you mess with it, you open a larger can of worms that you can't ignore.

unplug the brake booster vacum line and drive around. That is waht a bad booster will belike. just clean up the crud on the brake booster. If you replace that, then you will want to be replacing the firewall, brake pedal, steering column, dashboard, floorboards, etc.

You could remove the intake as well and clean all of it out. Might as well go with new intake gaskets anyway. Go for the graphite faced ones if you can find them.

Since when did you learn stick shift? I learned buying a $300 84 gl wagon, myself. I had 4 driver ea81's out of all my subarus; the 84 gl wagon, 83 turbo wagon, 83 gl FWD 5spd, 86 brat. I had a handful of ea81 parts cars in the mix. I once put an ea81 in the 'silver fox' 86 gl sedan 3at<5spd d/r. I went to jail and it got junked. I also put an ea81 in an 88 dl fwd 3at spfi. My statement on the 1st gear thing was driving in desmont's ej brat. First gear just regved so quickly with ej power, and sencond the same, and third gear was way low of an rpm from 2nd. It just didn't work with the ej being that the power curve was past the gearing on the 4spd. It had a 3.999 final ratio. The gearing for the 1,2,3,4 spd's vary between models and years. There was a chart posted recently. You might find it in the archives, as it has been posted millions of years ago. You would want to tune the ea81 for a higher powerband with the ea82 5spd dual range. Go with a 2wd disty as it has a higher advance curve. You can mod the secondary to deliver the 2nd barrel sooner. Look up subarujunkie's (brian) article. chop the muffler with a cherry bomb and bump the timing up a few degrees. I still have all that 87 spfi stuff laying around if you wan't to attempt that on the ea81. That would be ultimate! I still have yet to see one in person. But that is a prohect of itself, and you could easily use an ea82 spfi with the same effort. Really, if this car runs well like it is, focus on all the body/rust to start with. Upgrade anything you would have to service as regular maintenance.

I'll express my opinion and say that the ea81 is ill paired to a 5spd dual range. I suggest the ea82 paired with a 5spd, because of the torque and power curve. This impression was made driving a brat with an ea82, as a replacement for the ea81 that chucked a rod out the block. EA81 is pretty solid, though. I drove my 83 FwD 45 miles with no water pump, after the pulley broke off and pissed out all the coolant. It overheated so bad it cooked the oil, several times, sit for 15 minutes and keep going, cook the oil again. I replaced the head gaskets and water pump without resurfacing the heads and the engine was still good. That is tough. I would agree an ea82 may not have liked such a circumstance as much (the aluminum would have granulated and the head bolt threads would have ripped out). Hooray for head studs on the ea81!

the brat was made thru 94 overseas. The ea81 was in production along with the ea82 at the same factory for the same amount of time. There is a chance you may luck out. Wait till you get the part before you chop anything. if you got a 2bbl carb, it will be a hitachi. a 1bbl carb would be a carter-weber(different intake) an ea82 hitachi is slightly larger. It should fit the manifold, but dont quote me on that. there is a pull-off ea82 hitachi carb at the shop from ben's car. It has been suggested to upjet the carb to compensate for ethanol blend fuel You could drop an ea82 in theis car using its original manifold, coupled with a 5spd, if you so desired. The ea81 is less maintenance intensive, whereas the ea82 has a little more performance, and more compression if you use an spfi block. ea82 trailing arms will swap, and have larger drum brake. Disc brakes will be appreciated if you have to pull all of that apart.

I chopped the side of a hatch to build a 2-door wagon. You should have me come over and show you where to work it. You got your work cut out for you. AT least the rust is not in structural areas. I encourage you to give it the same level of treatment as my 3-door with the rust treatment.

jerry's kit is an adapter to use the 4spd's original dual range shifter with a 5spd. the 4spd has a really short first gear, and a large gap between 2md and 3rd. If you ej's this, it would annoy you greatly with that gearing. If you were ever on the highway, you would have yo tke 2nd gear to 50 mph, and ride 3rd gear to the cruise speed you want, then 4th to maintain. You will be shifting out of first before the car is moving, it is so short.