MilesFox

You should put that oem bicycle rack on it. It takes up space in my basement. put in a 5spd dual range with the jerry's kit shifter

You can get it to work if you rough up the surface, or treat it with some sort of prep 'marine clean' or similar to etch the surface. Otherwise, use it locally to rusty spots where needed, before any undercoat is applied.

The idea would be to let it go to someone like you, someone whou would appreciate the blood, sweat, and tears put into it. Not that i don't want it, but if i could use the proceeds as an investment, it would be worth it (as money to save for a house, or stuff in the bank) Perhaps i could swap the struts from the xt into my 3door, and let the xt go for cheap enough that one could invest in a lift for it. I lie the idea of a lifted XT.

I approve of your cherry bomb and where you located it in the exhaust. Awesome! I just did this to mine, less the snorkel in the fender.

Any interest in the monster wedge? Perhaps my 3-door? maybe, maybe not. I am still in limbo with what to do with the xt. Maybe i would sell my 3door if the price was right. but maybe not. It still needs another rear wheel bearing, and the impreza trans mount to clear the exhaust pipe.

I would vote for going underneath and treating with POR-15. You can get a pint or a quart. A quart is $50. You would probably not use a whole quart, but a pint would be close. Only open what you can use up. this stff stretches a long way. i would treat the rrust, howeer slight, with a wire wheel or sand paper. I would use the naval jelly on crustier, flakier areas. chip off any rust flakes, and rinse off the naval jelly residue with water, blot dry. Then apply por 15. this product cures with moisture and humidity. Any moisture absorbes into the rust would cure into the paint. It is designed to paint over rust, but knocking off the surface of the rust will minimize the amount of rust you have to treat. This stuff is great to paint onto the trailing arms and the top of the gas tank if you want to remove it, and the underside a=of the bed above the gas tank. From here, you can apply an undercoat. Apply something like stone-guard product on areas that would be abraded by gravel, sand, and salt. The tar stuff is messy and the rubberized stuff is only effective as sound dampening. If you know where to look for rusy, you will probably find it. these cars tend to rust in patterns, in specific areas, and known trouble areas can be treated pre-emptively if you would inevitability expect rust in these areas.

How is the exhaust? It may look intact, and sound extra subaruey, but look for a split in the muffler seam, especially the other side you have to crawl under the car to look at. My 95 legacy is getting under 18mpg, blasting through 1/4 tanks per day doing local errand urban daily driving. It has an open exuahst with no muffler. I chopped in a cherry bomb at the center section and straight piped the rear out past the bumper. The car moves better and isn't choking me on exhaust fumes. Hopefully the mileage improves. The 94 legacy blew its muffler out and dropped in fuel economy. On 300 mile highway driving, she averaged 24 mpg this way. I chopped off the muffler and installed a cherry bommb, and he does about 26 mpg on the same trip. But now the heat sheilds fell off, and the post-cat header pipe rusted through at the pipe hanger. She is averaging 16 mpg in-town urban delivery driving. We have 10% ethanol blend fuel.

MAybe you can't blame the reliability on the car itself for being what it is, but rather maybe picking a bad example, one that has let to rust with no maintenance and bad stereo installs, etc. Dont give up thus far unless you want your 2 stax to be in vain. if you fix everything, what is left to break? one should be frugal with these cars

the alternator looks like an internally regulated 1983 and up. I would have to see the back of it to be sure. The first compressor looks like the dealer add-on unit. Second compressor is ea82 turbo xt. the grooved belt means xt, otherwise it would be ea82t the center console looks like an ea81. the knockut in the mddle is for the power windows.

Imagine a trashwagon paint job with the body being flat black, the stripe being semi gloss, and the bottom being glossy. Or some mix of this. Basically, a 3-tone, but all black

EA82's are good enough for airplanes. Hopefully it is an aircraft that can glide properly when not powered. How do you measure 60,000 miles on the timing belt in the air?

Just don't make any abrupt maneuvers, brake before turning, make gradual transitions into brakings and lane changes. If you are familiar with towing, you will know this. So thie leaves you to know the specifics of a subaru in tow. If the tail wags the dog, or the car in tow wants to pusht he car towing, accelerate until you are in control and gradually brake. Going down long hills, it is best to keep a little tug on the hitch, so if yu do not want to overrun with speed, slow down a bit before descending, and coast with a slight gas pedal to keep the load tight, and do it at a pace where you will reach top speed at the bottom of the hill form the speed you started from, so you can give a little pull with out exceeding a desired speed. If the subaru had larger hubs and brakes, it would be more ideal for heavier towing since the gearing and the power curve are appropriate to pull a load.

95 legacy 2.2, 225,000 miles, borla replica header+no muffler+ethanol blend fuel = 16-18 mpg

The safety switch is on the clutch pedal. It was present on 91 loyale and up. No GL has it, and 90 loyale does not have it.

a 5mt can be flat towed all 4 down. An AT should be towed on a trailer, all 4 up, as to nit burn out the trans. You can dolly an AT if you remove the rear part of the driveshaft. The car not moving until warm is probably a bad inner pressure seal, as this is a common failure or symptom. Some trans tune or trans-x additive may help it.

Do a trashwagon Vista Cruiser. Or an AMC Eagle trashwagon

Take out the rotor or coil wire if it will be unattended for a while. Pull the #5 fuse. unplug the fuel pump. Steering lock 'the club' is easily defeated by hacksawing the steering wheel.

re-seal the oil piump and loc-tite the screws on the back side. replace the water pump. Put the heads back on, and you got a 200,000 more mile engine. Don'y bother with taking the bottom end apart unless you want to waste time and energy/$$$. Not that it wont do any good, but it is not necessary for the cost and time involved. Only do so if you have a rod knock or whatever.

The only disadvantage an ea82 has over an ea81 is more places to leak oil (cam seals, tower o-rings) and the fact that timing belts will need service(or at least the tensioners) The ea82 is a little better in performance. An ea81 you can leave more of it alone. An ea82 water pump fits on an ea81, but the pulley alignment is off half a belts witdh. You can make ea82 anciliaries fot on an ea81, and all of those pulleys match up with an ea82 water pump, but the ea82 crank is still off half a belt width. But this will work and run, but belt will be due for replacement more often. If you are using an ea82 water pump and intake, the ea82 radiator matches the same. The ea82 intake will match the upper hse of an ea82 rad, but the ea81 water pump will need some sort of hybrid hose to match the ea82 rad.

Use the ea81 long block with the ea82 spfi intake. You will have to make some clearance mods for the intake. Use the spfi disty, flip the gear upside down to use in the ea81 block. You will have to make some clearance mods the the disty mounting tabs, and probably clock it 180 to fit, route wires accordingly. auto or manual trans? use the ea82 exhaust header swap tghe ea82 pitch stopper mount to the ea81 belhousing. you wil lhave to transfer the timing marks from the ea81 flywheel to the ea82 flywheel to set the timing with a light.

You can shiftt from lo to hi. %th gear lo is just shorter than 3rd gear hi. I like doing a '3rd gear split' for a 'simulated 6 spd' Now answer me this: If plural of mouse is mice, and if goose is geese, could'nt moose be meece?

Legacy

Consider it normal as long as there are no shavings in the oil, the other gears shift smothly, and 1st engages smoothly from a stop. None of the subarus i ever had liked going into 1st while moving. I make my shift at the moment the car comes to a stop.

Whoever can guess the model and generation it came from can take my 100 points as gold coins.

This allows you to use the ea82 axle. The control arms are longer. You will have a wider track in the front, with ea82 dimensions. This will help to make the camber less positive as well, with the ea81 body's strut towers in relation to the track. If you went with xt6 suspension, you use the 23 spline cup from a turbo ea82 3at, since it is the same diameter as the 25 spline cups in turbo mt. the other workaround is using FWD impreza axles, but you have to change the inner seal to match that axle. Using an xt6 setup will retain the same parking brake mechanism. The suspension mod overall prevents you from having to chop together a custom length axles. The nice thing about subarus is you can retrofit entirely with stock parts, just the right combinations, and only little mods, which allows you to 100% oem replacement parts for your retrofits. If you want to be simpler with a retrofit, you can use the ea82 knuckle and strut with the ea81 spring and tophat, and use an ea81 inner seal on the knuckle to use the ea81 axle in the ea82 knuckle. The ea81 has both inner and outer seals the same size. The ea82 uses the same size on the outer seal, but the inner seal is larger for the ea82 axles.