MilesFox

Resistor coils for the fan speeds. They usually break and fail, leaving only #4 high, with no reduction, or missing speeds. This one looks like a legacy or impreza, newer than ea82. I will take my 100 points in silver coins. So let's guess what year and model it's form!

plugging the green connectors holds the timing static to adjust the initial timing. It works the same as plugging the vac line on a mechanical disty. Check into testing or replacing the engine temp sensor, the 2-wire unit with the green plug on the thermostat housing. Also, be sure to clean the MAF with an approved product. Avoid using brake cleaner. Use CRC MAF cleaner if you can find it. Do your vents work? If they only blow out the dash, there is a loose vac line that is easy to miss coming from the passenger strut to the intake. It is easy enough to knock loose just poking around.

I have a crossmember with control arms and radius rods. The steering rack was already taken. I just removed the struts and knuckles ot let go with my GL. But, if there is a convenient way to ship it, feel free to make an offer. this is from an 86 gl coupe

the ea82 crossmember can be modded to fit. IT is about 2 inches wider overall. What you do is moun the ea82 control arms, use your original radius rods, but the trick is to cut off the mounting ear from the ea82 crossmember and weld it to the ea81. This spacess the control arm back, since the ea82 curves forward and the ea81 is straight. You can just bolt it on, but that will throw off the geometry, and you will have to lengthen the radius rod. So imagine the mounting ears to the control arms The ea82 is welded behind the rear ear, where the rear ear is the fornt, and the new one is the rear. If you look at the ea82, it is spit welded on with a bead somewhere in the middle. The contour of the stamping matches the contours of the ea81 crossmember. By doing this, you can ultimately convert to xt6 or impreza front suspension. I made a build like this, and modified the ea81 tophats to fit the ea82 struts. You can also swap out ea82 rear trailing arms to fit the ea81 by enlarging the hole for the larger pivot bolt. this is less work than trying to swap brakes around (around rusty hardware), and the ea82 drum brake is larger.

If one could defeat the steering lock, the car can be started and ran with 2 wires under the hood. There is no shifter lock out. You can start the car if you can get the hood open. You can steal it without having to break into it. Look for a hole under the steering colimn. One could easily poke a drill bit in the right spot to defeat the lock pin.

1. make sure the disty is not 180 off on the exhaust stroke. verify this when the passenger side cam dot is pointing at the top hard edge of the valve cover. The driver side will be pointing at the bottom hard edge. Supposedly there is a dot on the disty gear to align with the cam gear. 2. make sure the fuel lines are not reversed. Tge side from the pressure reg. is the return side. The top line on the intake is the supply line. I like to use a spare spark plug to test spark with. Check fuse #5 check the wires on the coil, the black ones are positive, the yellow ones are negative. the blue wire from the transistor goes to positive. Make sure the transistor is plugged in to its own harness on the body. make sure the ground wire is connected on the water pipe. One to the battery, the other one to the coil.

I had a 92 legacy FWD i got for 160 bucks with half a motor and swapped a good motor and new clutch in. I sold this car. It would have been trashwagon11. My current 94 legacy is unofficially trashwagon 12. It is blue. Trashwagon 6 was blue with all others the black scheme. I already painted the bottom of the car white. It is in all stock condition, but i did swap to dual piston calipers, so it counts. Scott's car is officially trashwagon13. I call it complete. The scheme works on the original paint. Although traditionally, the stripe is orange:brow:. But the original scheme is designed to fit over any body color. there is a white scheme as seen on the toyota camper and the u-haul toyota. I have yet to do one on an orange body. Trashwagon10 95 legacy outback was originally supposed to be TrashWagon8MkII as it could have been a replica of the original being the exact make, year, model, and trim as trashwagon8, but this was AT where the first one was MT. The original was gunmetal grey with aluminum sheet skins for the lower portion, and aluminum taped-out rear tail panel and marker lites, and eyelids up front, chrome grille. In nomenclature, TrashWagon10 was reserved for a specific build to be labeled TrashWagonX, with X being roman numeral. This would have been an ea81t wagon with rx ea82 and trans swap, ea82 suspension swap with xt6 5 lug. Paint jobs scheme work well with others.

I run coverless. The rag under the hood was me!

You can set the seal where it is just past the groove. Try not to bottom it out all the way, though.

Cam retainer. They are round o-rings. the 'v' shape is just from age and being squished. The felpro cam seal set comes with both seals and the o-rings.

87 is my favorite year. I have had an 87 gl fwd, 87 gl 4wd, and 87 gl-10 wagon. I had an 88 sedan with 86 parts, other parts, averaging out to be an 87 for that car. The 87 has a 1 year specific steering wheel.

Yes. You can also ground to the body to get a reading. You can hardwire the ground from the pump to the body if necessary.

Route them along the front of the intake.

Ditch them and fold over the steel line. You can remove the iron ports form the heads, but you will need an ea82 y-pipe to clear the framerail. You can leave them there if they are working. If it is popping or backfiring you can "tape a quarter" to it, search that term.

My 86 3door was like this. First i had to replace the intake gaskets for it to run for more than a block. It drove good, and choke worked, but it would stall in traffic at stops, and either idled high or not at all, depending on how i feathered the pedal. Check that the egr valve is working right, as it should be closed at idle. It could be clogged with carbon which pretty much deletes its function. check the vac line that goes to it. I never did test the egr on mine as a ej22 swap happened before i could do that.

If the realy was bad, the pump wuld not operate or operate intermittently. I would vote for the pump itself failing. You can replace it with a generic inline rated for the 7-8 psi or so.

The shape of the bull nose. The AT is round shaped, the MT is more notch shaped. the starter motor itself is the same and will swap back and forth from the bendix housing.

All the felpro kits i have seen source oem grommets from fuji. good luck:)

Might i suggest a vacuum leak. Might i suggest the leak is due to a bad intake gasket. It is worth changing them anyway, the operation is relatively easy. The intake comes off as one piece; carb, airbox, rats' nest and all.

Fwd<4wd ftw!

This is probably why i had starter fitment issues using an xt6 trans for my swap. My swap used a regular ea82 flywheel. I had to place a washer between the starter and bellhousing so the teeth did not drag the bendix. I test fitted bot the xt6 starter, and the starter that came with my ej motor from the brat connected to a 4spd.

later models will work. the differences between them is manual trans or auto trans.

MAybe you can blow them out with compressed air. Doing this, you will want open ends on the lines. You will probably want to undo the fittings at teh proportioning valve on the rear of the vehicle. Although, i think that just pumping new fluid through by bleeding will do the job. the important part is removing any moisture from the system. Your idea is viable being that things are apart already. I suppose others will chime in with their recommendations.

Notice they forgot to restore the tow hooks on Raegan's brat.

You just pump pump hold like you are bleeding the brake after replacing a caliper or what not. Have a buddy help you, pump until clear folowing the bleed procedure. You can pump out most of the MC (not all of it, do not suck up air), and wie out the insides with a paper towel, and then add more fluid to continue flushing. If you were really particular, you can take it out and get a more thorough cleaning. But this would requre bleeding the MC, (same with replacing it) which can be tricky, and you have to do it with your finger since there is no bleeder valve. This is unnecessary labor for an already functioning brake system.