MilesFox

you could go around a 4th time towards 50 lb ft, but i would not go so far as to stretch the threads in the block. the idea of oil on the thread is that the bolt goes in smoothly, and the bolt gets more CLAMPING FORCE per the amount of torque it takes to turn the bolt. IF t he threads were tight, the torque it takes to turn the bolt relults in less clamping force. If you have a wire wheel, brush off the shank and thhe threads of the bolts and clean them up well.

Yeah, i got a good look at it. interesting what the carfax shows, in regards to the tsb's about the tow hooks removed.

Have you checked the knock sensor? when it goes bad, it retards the timing under load and causes a power drop, which in turn causes the transmission to hunt around for gear.

Your lift looks great. You got some good ride height. You have pulled it off better than most of the dirty impreza crowd with what they put together. (i.e. "the lift that wasn't" thread and similar)

How about that. That car could sell for 2500 with all fresh parts. I bet you can sell it off to Subaru City as they want to get an inventory of used soobs. They would offer 1500 on average. Clean car = book value!

I like to mount the chain to the pitch stopper mount using the bolt through a link, and the other end to the p/s pump. I f you remove the p/s pup, you can thread a bolt thru the chain to one of its holes on the block.

yes, i had this idea to use roller rockers from 97 single port heads on dual port 1st gen heads, which allows for a delta 1000 cam

BOUGHT!!!...... *i still have all my coin*

Yes, that is my intention. I would be asking if you could change the title to Trashwagon10 or something similar. I will keep the car i its current glory as it is a finished product and doesn't need to be messed around with. It is already how i would do it up anyway!

The fuel pump wires come into the car from under the seat, and run along the trans tunnel, across the foolr in front of the seat, and join the harness at the passenger door sill up towards the dash.

sale pending with money down:Flame:

I have done this in my 96 gl, but along with xt6 swap. The xt6 crossmember had the second hole. the xt rack used ea82 lines. the ej rack has the lines that go directly to the rack itself. The xt/ea uses hard lies along the crossmember to meet the hoses from the pump

I can't think of any brands, but for a price, you can get one for about the 100 dollar mark form an online vendor.

The bulk pennies are face value. their intrinsic value would be x3 in their metal content for melt value. As i have been accumulating pennies, I am keeping the wheats and the canadians. I have 3 whitman's collector folders from 1909-current. I have the last 2 almost full with the exception of a few years and mint marks. I have one full dime folder. I have about half of the 1909-1959 wheat pennies. My earliest is 1916. These are all coins form circulation by bank roll searching. So with the hoarding of coins, the collectible ones go in the folders, and the rest get hoarded for metal, or go back to the bank. I have 250 in dimes to return to the bank as i only found one silver coin in a whole box. With the overall effort, i am keeping pre-82 pennies, all nickels from pocket change, 2009 dimes, and state quarters, and any silver coin that turns up in bank rolls or as pocket change. If i could sell any of the coins for over face, i would buy silver coins with it. Same with any junk metal to the scrapper, use the money to get coin. It's cash laying around that i forget i have. So i could liquidate about $350 in coins without cashing in the collected ones.

It shouldhave had a dual row to begin with. A GL radiator will fit, but you may have to swap the top and bottom rails to fit the XT core support

Aside from trying to come up with another car, i got my budget pretty much in order. Only the last 25% of my goals are based o the bet that my other things will sell. This is only compounded by not having a job to stack money faster. If i gave up the coin hobby, i will have $130 in pennies to cash in, $32 in nickels, and at least 50 bucks in state quarters, if i fell short somewhere and needed the money. I do not want to sell my silver, as this defeats the purpose of having it to begin with; it is now a permanent investment. The immediate goal is to throw down the security deposit as that is priority 1, and then what i have left plus selling my brown wagon would mostly put me in a trashwagon.

plenty of PB blaster and a LLOOONNNGGG pipe. The stake wont matter, since if the nut would unscrew, it would unscrew past the stake. This worked for me: (language warning, loose swear words)

The uneven tire wear can be indicative of a failing wheel bearing.

YOu got me thinkin' really hard on this. I have 3 people interested in my brown wagon for a few hundo, and have sold most of my minibike and scooter stuff already. I did get you pm and am weighing the option considerably So what to do with my money? 1. Security deposit to secure a lease and move in june $700 2. conceal carry weapon $4-600 3. another car $9-1100 4. 10 oz. silver $350 before it becomes too expensive (1) i still have 3 months, and a few $$$ worth of things to sell yet (2) don't need now if i stay out of situations that would compromise my safety (3) I have half of this already, and the other half if i sold the GL (4) already have 9 oz

I would suggest rebuilding the am towers. This gives you access to the lifters, and a chance to replace an o-ring that usually will suck into a pacman shape and lose pressure to the lifters, causing the tick.

I vote for GL, as they are lighter, smaller, and naturally more suited, and less to cry about over dents and scratches. To even the argument, a Legacy with a dual range, or a GL with an ej22.

only clean oil. if the threads looked like they leaked something, this is normal. oil moves up threads. using oil on the threads promotes proper, even torque values when tightening.

go by maintenance history versus miles. High mile cars with extensive service will be more relaiable than a lo mile car with no service history. Consider the year of a car. If it has lo miles, that doesnt matter as much if the car is old. $5000 would be a better price to open offers with. Hopeful sellers generally put a price of 25-50% more than what they would actually take for it. That is just part of the game. take a quote from me: "When someone is looking for something specific, they know what it's worth. But at the same time, they know what they would want to pay for it."

THe MT crossmember has longer bolts then the AT crossmember. This is probably what he means. The at crossmember bolts in with the radius rod plates, but the at mounts to the tunnel further back. So to use the MT crossmember, you need the longer bolts and the rubber washers to replace the shorter bolts as the mt crossmember bolts where the radius rod mounts bolt to.

I would suggest wheel bearing by how it sounds. My father in law's forester had a whining sound. We took it in to replace the wheel bearing. After the work, there was still a bit of noise form the other side, although the bearing checked out. The forester has drum brakes. Is there a difference in steering response from one way or the other. Does the noise come or go while making maneuvers such as lane changes?