MilesFox

^^^ this, and the intake boot can stay with the engine, irbox and all. OR you can remove the intake boot with all pcv lines conncted, airbox/maf. You will have to do the pcv line form the pcv valve itself AC can be swung out the way. the P/S can be swung out the way as well, easy to unbolt. Drop the exhaust and go to town. Actually, the exhaust pipe would be in the way of dropping the trans, and then you would be into rusty flanges and replacing donut gaskets. you can watch the 'art of subaru maintenance' on youtube to get an idea of what's involved, althouh the example is an ea82. The video shows removing and swapping thee trans; similar procedure. But myself, even if i was removing the trans to swap it out, i still remove the engine to make acess easier. Typically i will pull the trans from under the hood with a crane, and install it this way as well.

That car has been tossed around more than a wet towel. Tom if you get this car, it is well deserved. Keep it pretty! Things like this keep your subaru flame burning.

I wouldnt use pipe dope, but i would use ultra grey sealant. Teflon tape is non solvent.

Cheapest way is to find a whole donor, preferably for scrap price. YOu get all the harness and intake, so what if the engine is bad, since you can get more than one type of engine to use with this setup. Doing HG on the engine is no biggie for the overall cost of investment and you do the labor. Or you can source everything from a partout or for sale from already pulled parts for the purpose. Ideally you want all the parts from the same car or at the same time if you can get them all at once one way or another.

I have a set NiB of ea71 pistons with rings and pins. I have to go look for the box at the shop but i have them. they should do the same effect as spfi. I will let you know once i go retrieve them. supposedly some yamaha motorcycle pistons share ea piston dimensions.

I would vote for that, and also the idea that maybe the steering rack came from another model and the lines run differently than they originally were.

It's still a good idea to keep comprehensive insurance on an undriven vehicle in case some act of nature or the building it is in falls on it, or is vandalized/broken into. Generally comp insurance will cover items in the car as well as long as it is not part of the car, such as the audio system or other gadgets. But if there was a TV or laptop or other valuable in there that was ripped off, it may be covered.

you might find it easier to remove the engine instead. This saves you from compromising the aligment pulling axles and such, and saves you the mess of losing fluid once you pull the driveshaft. Pull the engine, remove the TC, and there you are. Plus, you will have the chance to inspect or replace the baffle plate on the back of the engine which is prone to leak, and is commonly mistaken for a rear main seal. That, and doing the valve covers and timing belts are much easier if you do all of this in the same motion. The consensus will agree that removing the trans is only necessary if you are replacing it.

I hope by checking the obvious tings, that you made sure the coolant is not low. Low coolant will not flow into the heater core. Make sure to get any air bubbles out if this is the case. Feel the heater hoses on the firewall side to see if they are warm. If they are warm, then check the flapper and the heat selector.

ford aux pump is the economical way to go.

Is it warped? they can warp if stored on a non-flat surface. I Would sand it down and use a light body filler in the cracks to fill them, do this a few times till it is smooth. Maybe not so much a body filler, by a glazing compound. That and high build primer. Is there big chunks f paint flaked off, or just stress cracks? If you go back in this thread and look at the front bumper being painted, this will give you an idea. The bumper's paint had stress cracks that i tried to hide. Some are still visible, but only because i worked too hastily to be finished with the project overall.

You will shorten the driveshaft since the legacy tans is longer. wheelbase is the same width, as far as you use the legacy axles as they are. For the front you will need to use the xt6 control arm or hog out the ball joint hole. The rear you will have to fabricate a wheel well/strut tower. Search for xt6 swaps in regards tot he front suspension. Search WRX brat for ideas on the rear suspesion, it will be a total fab, unless you just use xt6 parts to convert to 5 lug, or use the crossbred performance kit available from retroroo.com The legacy engine will fit in the engine bay. you can couple the ej motor to the ea82 trans with a bellhousing adaptter. OR shorten the driveshaft and custom mounts to use the legacy trans. Axle stubs will line up to original axles. You can use the legacy engine and trans with car's original suspenson if you use the 25 spline turbo axles I swapped my 86 3door coupe with an impreza motor and full xt6 driveline, going from 1.8 carb front wheel 4 lug to full time 5spd 4wd. Here is my build as an example. Although it uses an xt6 for suspension, i can use legacy or impreza parts to substitute the front suspension components. The rear however, is limited to what's there with no fab involved. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119353&highlight=3door

The seal that the torque converter slides through has probably failed. I have seen this failure more than once. I would suspect this first.

I find it odd that someone would pay insurance on a car they are not driving. But i am doing the same thing, i insured the xt to drive it home, and left it on because the multi-car discount makes the policy cheaper than one car. I need to roll it over to the car that i am actually driving. State law in wisconsin permits you to quit your insurance withouth being obligated to terms, you only pay for the the you are active on it. (so i was told against my assumptions)

Timing belts are easier than you think. You can remove the outer cover to inspect the alignment. go on the youtube and watch "art of subaru maintenance" series which covers timing belt and distributor alignment.

I will see your $120 for the struts when they are ready. I presume they are complete with spring and tophats, is that correct? I can give you a little more if you can include some of the LED lighting, floor mats, and seat covers, based on what you want for those items, if available.

the lower rear seat *should* fit from a sedan, and the upper rear seat should swap from a wagon. The front seats will swap with any, but the 3door has a flip forward feature for the front seats. Same for the xt, but you will have to modify the seat tracks to fit. the dashboard will be the same as any othe rGL. try to find one from a matching year, or at leas have a matching harness to swap into another dash. I do have a dash and harness from an 87 gl turbo wagon if you need a part once you start going together. good luck!

I have done this swap. The strut actually has more travel then the original spring itself. You will want to get the proper outback spring to go with the strut, or put some sort of spacer between the spring and the perch. I was able to put mine together without compressing the spring. hopefully you can find some pull-off forester or outback springs, or complete struts with spring and tophat. as far as the stiff strut, maybe the rod is slightly bent?

Swap in xt6 suspensions, and retrofit impreza knuckles and struts in the front(xt6 control arms required), and from there larger brakes and rotors. nissan injectors will upgrade from the ea82's shorten the driveshaft and use a wrx trans with engine since the croossmember allows room for the turbo up-pipe From the fenders forward, the body panels fit the same as wagon/sedan rear of the car is ore like a sedan drivetrain is same design as any other ea82 subaru wagon/coupe/sedan/xt and 100% swappable I am jealous! if you paint the car or ditch the badges, i am desperate for gold badges! Nice ride.

The harcoal can does drop down. there are 2 or 3 10mm bolts, and the thing will just drp down and hang by its hoses. The hitch should bolt up to the tow loop in some fashion. I had to do these working at u-haul. I can't recall a difference between the 97 and earlier. I mainly installed them on later models, so no oldies to compare to.

I meant peening the crack itself. just get a small pointed punch and sort of tap down the edges of the crack to smoosh it together. The only potential for compromise with the crack is the valve seats. I have seen valve seats pop out. you can stake the side of the valve seat near the crack to prevent this. This is what peening the crack would be. You made that crack sound a lot worse than the picture. I have seen wider cracks on running cars. If you want my advice, (or my opinion on your specific operation) don't bother resurfacing the head. I never do. If the head is just a pull off on a non-cooked engine, it will be good to go. YOu can if you want to yourself, but otherwise, save yourself the expense. ($) There is a slight concavity across the head naturally that gets squeezed down by torque. The heads slide on their gaskets by design with different expansion rates to the block and intake.(graphite faced gaskets). some .002 difference in flatness is within spec

the cracks can go as deep as the valve guides and still be ok. I have ported heads for an ea82 turbo motor that had these cracks, hence my example. This is a currently running engine since 7 years ago.

This is normal. Ea82's don't fail headgaskets the same as newer engine. You could have probably left them be and been fine. Tell your mechanic to peen them down. If he doesn't trust his own work and liability for the work, find someone else that will. You will find these cracks on 90% of pull-off heads from running engines. However, cracks in the exhaust ports are bad. These don't occur naturally, but rather from excessive overheats and abuses. There are TSB's about the heads. perhaps your machinist can look them up.

Most likey quit running with a broken timing belt. No damage at all. New belts will have it running the same. If you want to verify that the fuel pump is working, plug in the green test connectors under the hood, and turn on the key. This will cycle the fuel pump off and on. You can take off the steering column covers to remove the ignition switch to start the car with a screwdriver. This will allow you to run the car, but the steering will still be locked. As stated above, verify that the rotor is turning when craning. If not, check the set screw for the rotor if it has fallen out. It could be just that simple. Otherwise, if the screw is there, the timing belt had fails. which is most likely.

You would have to be doing donuts behind a truck stop to kick up enough snow/high rpm. This actually happened to me twice doing the same thing in the same place almost a year to the day later. I was able to fix it no problem each time. The only thing that prevents this from being a side-of-the-road repair is that you need a vise clamp to reset the tensioner.