MilesFox

If your MAF is whack, i have a spare that came with my car. If you think you might need it, make me an offer. If you are looking on the http://www.subaruxt.com forums, look up 'monsterwedge' to see my car as it was posted by the previous owners.

I would only use the HG-in-a-can if the symptoms were just bubbles in the radiator, but sice you have coolant in the oil, replace the HG. How hot did she get? i am iffy about resurfacing heads. I have never resurfaced them. The only engine that i touched that failed after a hg repair was one with resurfaced heads (but this motor was F*'d by the previous mechanic with missing parts inthe oil pump and the heads on backwards) There will be a slight concavity to the entire surface of the head, which gets squeezed out when torqued down. If you are resurfacing, the heads should be torqued to a torque plate to preserve this. Otherwise, you resurface them , you lose the concavity, and when torqued, the edges of the head could be less in contact than the center of the head. The surface should be smooth since the HG has a graphite facing to allow for expansion. This is my opinion, although i know it is ontrary to the status quo. But i have done many a subaru head gasket this way without failure, so i dont find it necessary to pay a machinist for work if it is not necessary. i cant remember the numbers, but a *slight" concavity is within specifications for the design of the head (i.e by factory standard it is not %100 perfectly flat)

the TPS becomes finicky withthese. There is an idle circuit, a WOT circuit, and a variable in the middle. The TPS is adjustable if you have a meter and the procedure specs (factory manual) You can remove the TPS and manage to pop the cover off and clean the contacts inside. Sometimes they get a green corrosion on the contacts, and this changes the values the ecu is seeng. Hesitation part-throtte and under toad is TYPICAL of the ea82t. i recommend you try to rebuild,clean and dielectric grease the TPS and see if that improves. The sad thing is, if you try to find new replacement parts like a tps or similar, they end up being hundereds of dollars as they would be the handful of remaining new-old-stock that would have to pass through several vendors to get to you. I recommend the junkyard for replacement parts, and just have a few on hand.

Yes, blown HG for sure. Change the oil and run it through immediately before going in for the repair. You will save much frstration with the valvetrain assembly if you pull the engine first, and yes, do both HGs. it would be silly to only do one when you are looking at it. Figure out why it got hot if you can. once you get an air pocket it can be tricky to burp. more than one overheat will kill the HG. I recommend to replace the water pump as it can become inefficient, ise noew coolant, and make sure the radiator is not corroded. and make sure the thermostat is the correct one. you can reseal the whole engine and do the water pump for less then 300 bucks. Leave the rear main seal alone unless it has been cooked. It is particular to install at the proper depth, and evenly, being it is 4 inches wide.

The one i have is oldschool: Ford thunderbird intercooler and volvo recirc valve. I would like to ditch this stuff and go with oem WRX but that will physically fit more properly. Depending on the overall volume of air and fuel, i would thinnk the maps on the ecu would maintain duty cycles and dwell time with larger MAF and injectors producing a larger proportion of fuel and reading a larger proportion of air. My one buddy in georgia is setting up his svx with nissan 300z MAF and injectors. The xt i am working with has a set of nissan 240 injecotrs that came with it to be installed. I would like to retrofit to hotwaire maf myself. I know that a nissan 240 coolant temp sensor is compatible (green top vs subaru brown top) as i found this out trying to get one for my 87 rx where it was not in stock, but the same part number came up for the nissan , which was in stock. Perhaps the nissan would have a different temperature rance that can manipulate the ecu for a different stoichiometric ratio. I h ave been working on translating my 88 xt fsm manuals to html so people can browse and search it. I would need to compare the 87 and 86 fsms to see what parts of it are redudatn and what parts are specific, as the schematics should be grouped by 85-86, 87 (think of an 88 with 86 shaped plug-ins, and 88 up. Based on comparing the schematics to eachother, i would know what i am up against. Keep the boost withing 7 psi as that is the one thing that will kill your engine is overboosting. You probably know this. The xt i have has 8:5 compression using a block from an 87 carb gl. the disty is not correct as it should have a connector for the external knock control unit. the 1987 and up did away with the EKU and integrated it with the ecu using an optical dist instead of a mechanical.

Look into the coolant temp sensor on the back of the intake near the turbo. Check for corrosion on the terminals.

You could possibly go to a MAF hotwire setup and then upgrade to some sort of nissan part along with injectors if you are attempting to tune an xt. The simplist way would be to do a complete harness swap from an 87 or later, but this would be the most work. I just got into an xt with a flapper maf, and this one is totally frankenbuilt with spider intake, intercooler, header, cams, xt6 interior, and with that it has incompatibility issues with the pinouts on the TPS (4 pins vs. 3, spider intake instead of original regular intake) and the one on there is installed backwards with a hole through the cover and long screws. Overall, under the hood is mixed up between 86, 87, and 88, which are all schematically different from their original applications. This car does not run right and i'm afraid it would blow up if it's driven wrong. I got it this way, and it will be my spring project when i am ready to dive into it, ant try to use more modern oem subaru parts that didnt exist in the USA when this car was built Nissan and Subaru are cousins in common manufacture, so look into that as an option from cars from the same era if you are making a serious attempt with tuning an ea82. Some folks here will hate on the ea82T, but this is coming from the folks who have taken the ea82T to its utmost potential, and blew them up. But only if you are going for max tune. If you tune it properly it will be reliable. In fact the system can run on 8.0 compression all day by design, but it was designed with 7.7:1 compression to ensure reliability for the consumer car buyer. It is a finicky engine, but it will be good if you know it well. I do like your idea, and if you are proficient with schamatics and autos, all you need is the specifications to figure it out. good luck

Fixing it yourself is a viable option. all you need is a drift punch, a 36mm socket, and the USMB. Labor is free if you are doing it yourself. I always stand by and advocate that a subaru is a good car to learn about auto repair, since it is pretty straight forward with these compared to other makes. You should go deebo back your car if you can do it in a manner that you are not 'trespassing'. Dude should have to release your car if he knows you are there to retrieve it. He shouldn't be allowed to hold it for payment if the repairs were not made and there was no contract for the work. It is for this reason that i am hesitant to take down payments if someone brings me their car, and i will be straight forward if it is work that i do not have the time or tools for. This is why i work on cars as a hobby, not a profession. Most of the time i take on this kind of work is because i am the only one who knows how to do it, but there have been times i have been compounded by sitting on a car that i cannot get to. But now i own that car. I can see both sides of the fence. This jeff guy should have known better about taking on your car if he was not confident in doing so.

on the gl-10 you can change from mph to kph. The electrical schematics for the interior circuitry are different between the 6 and the turbo.

the best way to check a broken(or stripped) timing belt is to watch for the rotor to turn while cranking. sometimes teeth can sheer off the belt, although it is not broken, and can be out of time while still turning. refer to the 'art of subaru maintenance' sereis on the youtube to check the timing rotation

I thinkyou could sell it for 1500 to someone that would swap the trans. Just imagine if you were the buyer looking at this car with known problems, and what you would do to fix it. It is a complete car, so it has value to someone.

Yeah, but the only thing that sux is the franchisor caught a DUI, and then they had to get striter with the insurance, and i no longer can drive havng tickets on my record. I managed to get my woman hired in 2 weeks prior, so she is driving my car and took over my schedule, and makes 20 bucks more a day in tips than i did. But i work one day a week in-shop, and the other day i was working was taken by another driver who lost driving. So now i am looking for jobs so i can fund my car, save some money, and of course sort hundreds f dollars of coins and stacking silver ounces. I have apps in at Harbor Freight and Office Depot. I stand a good chance at being among the ranks of spring hires at the local 12v auto installation shop, since the owner was impressed with my knowledge of a common ground stereo (ea81 and ea82 clarion factory radios!) when i walked in to ask if they were hiring

i am not the best to get advice from as i am new to the game. do some google or youtube for the subject. 'silver stacking' 'silver spot price' and see what the experts have to say, and make your own judgement. just make sure you stay out of the new world order , 9/11 inside job and illuminati conspiracy propaganda in the mix and you will find some helpful info. the idea is to buy it now before it becomes too expensive to acquire, and hold it. The whole 'stacking' idea is somewhat of a movement whre if the common everyday man can hold his wealth in physical metal, it would crash the fractional reserve bankers and fiat currencies (whom have been bailed out by the fed) that will move the wealth form the 1% to the 99%. Commodities prices drop when there are huge sell offs at the peaks, price goes down, and then some other entity buys it up (consolidation, transfer of wealth, price correction). The market is manipulated and the current prices are artificially low. A few years ago silver was less than 20 bucks per ounce. then there was a huge buying mode (bull run) whre it peaked at $50 between 2010 and 2011. Then Warren Buffet bought a 3rd of the reserves and then it dropped to around 30 per ounce. My silver that i bought last week is now worth $2.00 more today. The market is very volatile. You should understand the buying trends if you want to short sale some of it to make a profit. Just don't dump all of it. and buy on the dips. With the economy worldwide, the dollar is being inflated by printing more trillions, and the aisian countries are buying up preious metals to back their currencies, and it is suggested that they will no longer accept the us dollar as trade, and then everyone will be dumping their holdings in us dollars, and then the dollar crashes and becomes worth less, then worthless. You could read into it as hype or propaganda, but the math leads to this as an inevitability, it's just a matter of how long or soon it can happen. It is suggested that 500 oz could buy a house outright in the somewhat or even fairly near future if the dollar and world economies do not improve. I am not an analyst. I am just paraphrasing the content that i have been reading/watching. another good place to look on the tubes is the alternative/foreign news sources about the subject of gold and silver and the dollar and world economy, and commodities. Silver is a commodity (as an industrial metal) that currently is being used up faster than it can be produced, and more silver is being traded than actually exists (mining futures). With the growing demand for electronics, and the modernization of the third world it is being used up. cell phones and computers have about 5 cents to 50 cents of silver in the circuitry. It is uneconomical to salvage as it involves dissolving circuit boards and chips in acid and doing some chemical processes. get financially educated, as i am doing(well, researching the internet anyway), being aware and paying more attention to something i was complacent to beforehand. My motivation is being 32 yrs old without a pot to piss in, and this year i am taking myself more seriously to get my finances in order and save some money so i can get into a clash flow (rental) property, as my neighborhood is mostly all rental duplexes lived in by college students, with the average rent rate being 750 or so for a 2-3 bedroom, and foreclosed houses on every block for $50,000 or less. There are properties for $6,000 and $10,000. It would be easy to get into if i made a serious effort. Mr. Timothy W. Hansen (the film guy that is supposedly making this film about me) bought a house for 36,000 cash with tenants. I am scheduled to move into it. The city assesses that house for about $130,000 for taxes I don't want to clutter your thread with this, unless you want to keep discussing it, that is fine. I just wanted to give you the idea that i have. However crazy it sounds.

That is the car, minus the wheels, and with a momo steering wheel. It is a little rougher now bodywise. I am asuming the cardomain profile is the guy florida the previous owner had bought it from. (judging by the plants and the tile roof on the buldings) Currently it has hood vents, and 14" steelies with all seasons. The engine is exactly the same but swapped out for the bottom end. I still ahve the original longblock with ported heads and dealer rebuild receipts.. The bottom end was swapped out for a carb 8.5:1 compression.

Ha, i missed that. The coin is worth 2.15 in melt, but how else will i acquire it? The dealer has to make his money too. Although i hope to find them in coin rolls from the bank before buying them.

I agree with general disorder agreeing with my point. He is definitely entitled to his opinion. I have a soft spot for an ea82t myself. I just got into a franken-built xt turbo, and i am going to give the old ea82 one last run for it's money getting it tuned right, for the sake of challenge. As i am already sitting on parts and it wont cost me anything to do this. This car came to me as an incomplete project with many new parts and the rest of the parts it will need as one package. If it goes bust, i would look to swap out with ej22t or ej20g. But my preference is to get the ea82t to run properly and drive it as it would be, since the cost of a swap would be beyond my budget, and i don't want to keep a car around with no engine/on jackstands.

You will get the crank sensor code if you pull codes when the car is not running.

I am not a finace expert by any means. I am new to the game. I am looking to roll my 401k from uhaul into something i can pay into and invest a portion of. my advice to you is try to get onto some us silver coins. Dimes and quarters are easiest to pay for. I am paying 2.50 per dime from my coin shop. That is easiest to do if you dont have enough for an ounce. silver went up 1.50 since i bought mine. Do smaller amounts. If the economy hits the fan, you dont have to give up whole ounces for something that is worth less than an ounce. if you do get on some silver, and then the price goes up. DO NOT SELL IT

I should have started another thread about the coins, but here is an update. I bought another silver dime for 2.50 when i was at the con shop. I got some coin folders to assemble my collection. I completed the pennies from 1941-1974, all but a few, i have a 1909-1940 folder with 3 pennies in it. I have completed a dime folder starting 1965-current. And i have most of the state quarters fro 2009 through the territories. I went and bought these for 4 bucks each and started filling them up. I had been indexing my coun in baggies with labels in them, which was hard to look through. I picked all thebest ones for my coin folder. I ended up with $105 in dimes and pennies to take back to the bank. Come monday i am getting a $500 dollar box of half dollars to go through. My girl has most of the rent money in her bank, so doing this box of coins is a clever way to move 500 bucks from her bank to mine so that i can write a check. I have $100 in pennies on order from my bank. I am sitting on about $100 in nickels that i am trying to make complete rolls of each date and mint. I did find one silver war nickel. If i get a nickels coin folder i could dump them back in the bank, but i think i might sit on the nickels and accumulate 1 a box of $100 per month as hard cash savings at home, since a us nickel is worth about 6 cents in metal. theroretically i can accumulate the nickels as savings, and in a year or 2, start selling them to canada for more than their face value (in $5.00 increments to adhere to export laws) People are doing it, go look on ebay and see how much pennies are going for. People are getting into hording copper the same as silver or gold. But copper is not worth buying bullion online, since it is readily salvageable everywhere in all sorts of scrap. Pennies is the way to go for this. Some folks are buying scrap eletric motors from ebay, busting them down, and ending up negative by the time they get to the scrap yard. The way to do it is curb pick tv's, fans, and other electrical household items. People are selling 10 lb bags of pennies for 30 bucks, when it contains 15 bucks. Copper is just above 4 bucks per pound at the salvage yard. There are FOOLS who are buying copper ingots on ebay for 4 bucks per OUNCE. it is not being falsely advertized, but there are fools that dont know the difference of the spot price between pounds or ounces for copper. They are fooled becuse the copper comes in nice little stamped bars to look something like a precious metal. A junk alternator would have more copper than that for free.

It's between the steering column and the stereo. If you notice a little 1 inch square 'vent' to the left of the radio, it is immediately behind there. Little box with a pink plug.

1. if not belt related, the set screw on the rotor may have fallen out. 2. make sure the crank cogs for the belts are installed in the right order, so the belt is not offset being eaten on the edge or running off the pulleys. They do go on a certain way, although they will fit either way. One of the cogs has a lip behind it, and this one goes on the front.

I have done this once, went 45 iles to get my car to realize i forgot the key. A wooden doorstopper wedge works great. I find it easiest to do the back door window. The trick is to get your elbow through the door, and then you can reach the handle on the inside. My buddy locked himself out of of his SVX, and i had some junkyard subaru keys, tht one of them actually worked to unlock the door. I have had to help jimmy john's drivers unlock the car after lbeing locked out wit the car running. I was successful on a toyota rav 4 using a wooden dowel and a wedge. another driver locked herself out of a grand prix. She left the window down about a half inch, and i picked a stiff weed from the side of the road and unlocked the button through the window. one time i eas successful in fishing the keys out of the driver seat with a coat hanger in another instance long ago.

buy your silver at a local coin dealer. i get mine for $2 dollars over spot. The dealer makes his money on the transaction, not the price of the metal itself. IF you want to get silver for basically free, go to the bank and order a case of half dollar coins for 500 bucks, and hunt the rolls for silver. Just hold the stack of cins and look at the sides for the ones without a copper band. if you find any, you have a 24 dollar silver coin for 50 cents cost. Return the leftover coins back to thebank. it only costs you the face value of coins yu keep for yourself.

People need to quit hating on the ea82 (although it can be troublesome, due to neglect more than design) And people need to quit telling new folks on this forum that they are wasting their resources. It is backwards that the people telling you to stay out of a subaru are the die hard enthusiasts themselves. People didnt come here to be told to go home. this is my 2 cents (which is really worth 6 cents in copper). You got the one and only source on the internet for these cars being the one that tells the needy folks to go f* themselves, essentially. This especially goes for the semi-new folk (compared t the 10 yr+ members) jumping on the GD (who really hates the ea82t, his opinion) bandwagon, especially those who never had an ea82t. Banter is one thing but post hijacking is another. It's annoying to read and could leave a bad impression of this forum (because it is NOT nasioc)

Yes, replace all the hoses. for the skinny hoses, make sure you get coolng hoses and not fuel hoses. The suggestion of going with OEM subaru hoses is that they will be molded to fit correctly. First thing i would do is change the coolant. Make sure the radiator is not corrodes. And since the car has sat, take a look at the timing belts. Replace them as a safeguard, and replace the water pump while you are at it. If you want to guarantee reliability, cooling system is #1 priority. Next is timing belt, but if it breaks, there is no damage other than being stranded(keep a spare in the trunk) Next, as far as sitting goes, get under the car and check the fuel and brake lines for rust. The lines are most likely to be rusty/fail where they clip into the body fasteners, and where they come through the grommets under the back seat, and through the passenger side cargo hold. Lastly, go around and inspect the brakes. If they look like they got some life in the pads and rotor, go ahead and dismount the calipers and use a silicone lube to grease the slide pins. Replace the rubber if you like, but i like to apply the silicone grease around the rubber and around the piston boot if i am using it as it is. This is a preventive measure. You should pop the pads out and apply grease where they slide. (silicone grease!!! wheel grease will cause braking problems)