MilesFox

No, what i meant is he addressed ME as donald. his name is gary d. I dont have to mention it because you can find it if you search the USMB hard enough.

Hit me up for the southern wisconsin stretch between chigago and green bay. I am in milwaukee. I have a tow bar that would fit on the front, but i don't have a vehicle with a hitch! If you need an emergency spare part i may have it. IF you have questions along the way as you drive, you can call me and i will coach you if you have a problem with the car. 414-793-7728

1. trade it in for an already turbo car. People will tel you the ea82 t is garbage. 2. swap in a turbo engine from a later model, but first, trade it in for an already turbo model so it has the right crossmember to clear the turbo iup-pipe 3. start with an already trubo car 4. there is more productive and easier ways than hyping a turbo. Bulds a frankemotor with 200 h and save all that hassle

Nice. I really like your project and would like to see you complete it. If you sell off those front marker lenses, i would be interested for my GL coupe. That wagon, even with the little rust, is in great shape for my standards. Too bad there was n way for me to come get the scraps for body parts.

Did your mechanic remove or replace the fuel filter? It is right there necxt to the brake fluid level. PErhaps there was residual ruel on the mechanic himself or in the shop where the car absorbed some vapors, but nono of it originated from the car. Perhaps the mechanic had gasoline on his shirt when he got in your car to move it.

The old lady has figured it out for the automatic in snow driving as a delivery driver. The other drivers are surprised to lern you can shift an AT manually. Take off in 2, leave it in 3(out of D) so that the torque converter remains locked, and the engine compression can help slow you down, and match the engine speed to the wheels' speed. The best thing you can do to be safe while witer driving is NEVER BRAKE WHILE TURNiNG!!! and.. IF YOU CANNOT STOP, STEER AROUND (this is the difference between rearending another car or bumping up onto the curb. If you are sliding into a curb, try to run over it head on, instead of sliding sideways into it and bending trailing arms. Car isnt going where you want it to? GET OFF THE BRAKE

I had the chance to see his personal haynes book as it was being borrowed by another member. It had a lot of notes scribblled in it, as well as his real name on the cover. In response to skip replying to me as Donald, he didn't like it too much when i addressed him by his real name. I have seen him logged in over the years. By now i am sure he has retired into his hobbies and interests, ans anyone who works all their life deserves to do.

wire it into the + ignition coil terminal, so that is comes on with the key. ire tie it into the fuse panel with the radio fuse or other that comes on acc

the labor to do this will be more than just swapping the starter, since you have to remove it anyway, and then rebuild it. Weigh your shop rate to rebuild versus the price of new parts. have you kept any spare starters from these project cars you've had ? the autozone, etc. starters come with a year warranty for a reason-high failure. My 94 legacy does this. if i rattle the key enough, it will go. I make a conscious effort to turn off the lights and the fan when i park the car, for this reason (this would be the difference if your battery will hold out for a start in sub zero weather if the battery is older). yes, you can test the starter by jumping a piece of wire from the small tab on the starter to the battery. do this with the key on so it runs. Try that the next time it leaves you with a no-start, and if it works, perhaps the problem could be in the ign switch or its terminals as this is common with older subarus. The starters on these are fairly universal, with one version for AT and another for MT. Perhaps you could get a junkyard unit and it will be good. OR that, if for cheap, and purchase new contacts for the solenoid and have your mchanic install them to that tstarter and swap it out. Keep your old one for a rebuildable for the next subaru that comes our way. I may have a spare starter, but i would have to look at it to see what it's from.

If i had a fence at the front of the yard, i would have a big rump roast German Shepard in my yard. Mest (people) are afraid of dogs naturally. Especially anything resembing a police dog. If i had my way, there would be a gated run on the side of the yard to keep the dog in to keep him contained, that i can let him out of while i am gone or at night. A dog like this would be too big to keep in my house with a child and 3 cats.

i need real bullets first. I have the pellet gun to scare them off, but with that, i best be ready to play with fire. I fanally got the car put in my garage last night. The function ing doors are locked down at the moment, diseg=ngaged from the automatic door opener, and the side latches re-installed. As long as no one enters the garage from the yard side!

felpro kit is not bad. if you get the bottom end conversion set, that will include the front crank, oil pump, and oil pan, rear seal. Susally the seals are supplied by national (canada, usa, mexico) but sometimes you will get NOK seals (japan) unless you need head gaskets, you can buy the top end seals as separated. Felpro supplies oem valve covers and grommets uder their 'perma-dry' brand, but intake and exhausts are cardboard stamped in-house. Bosal id good to go for metal exhaust gaskets. I am not sure if bosal supplies intaked. Ideally, the best quality intake and exhaust gaskets will be metal with graphite facing (oem, victor reinz)

if you can get the key out, the dealer should be able to cut you a new one with a VIN and registration, from 96 and later subaru.

The silver car pictured is an 86 gl turbo. it could be a gl-10 considering the wheels. FWD, perhaps, and 86 offered the mpfi as a fwd gl-10. If you bring this car to wisconsn, at least you have a clean body. Mechanically, i have enough spare parts to donate to this project if you can use them. good luck.

Keep running it if it is not consuming oil. once it starts consuming too much oil, consider replacing it. But it might be a while before it uses up oil if it has been maintained well.

I have already had stolen out of the alley by scrap theives: 2 motorcycles in one occasion an entire 5 lug suspension, turbo crossmember, and coupe tailgate(from the yard behind the gate. 92 legacy trans mound in between replacing it. random bicycles from the yard, one of which was my neighbor's motorized project. over the years: an xt6 trans 2 sets of xt6 wheels a 92 legacy that the guy showed up for when i was not there and took it, and left me with no money(craigslist) with personal items i had left in the car From the shop: things i have unloaded from a trailer to sell the trailer, before i could have brought them in a whole bmw (desmond's) jackstands and a whole car with the trailer after the trailer was paid for(car was still on the trailer) from my car: moped license plate laptop computer computer bag with a scientific calculator rolling tobacco and a container of quarters other times or instances: paint sprayer, generator, and floor scrubber, new truck battery out of another garage.

crc electrical contact cleaner.... coca cola does pretty good, then rinse with water. try replacing the terminal on the harness end.

you either have a hatchback EA81, or an 1800 OHC EA82 (this is very imprtant at the parts counter for 85-89 subarus. how does it run when running? we should determne if this is ignition pick-up related, or carburetor solenoid/valve related. someone will tell you to install a weber and be done with it. I your car is a wagon(4door) it has an ea82 1800 ohc engine.

plug in the green test connectors and turn the key to the on position The LED on the ecu will start flashing, and this will cycle the fuel pump circuit. you should hear the fuel pump turn off and on for 2 seconds. You should also hear the relay flashing. Make sure the relay is clicking, and then go look at the fuel pump. if you disconnected a fuel hose, you would get bursts of fuel. if you get the relay clicking, but no fuel pump, check the ground. jump a ground to the body. if that does not work, check for voltage with a meter or light. If still nothing, check the fuel pump related fuse. IF the ecu does nothing and no relay clicks, check the ecm, meter, and clock/hazard/horn fuses. If you have no voltage there, check the fuse links once more, the wiring between it and the battery, and the wiring between the alternator and the battery. the ecu will not come on if fuse 5 is blown. If the hazard does not work this fuse or 12v constant is faulty.

maybe there is debris blocking the passages? there is a flapper assembly to isolate hot or cold air.

The brakes require turning the pistons to set them. The slide pins cna be lubed. pads are cheap and rotors can be turned (if not out of limit) the average backyard mechanic isn't going to know about turning the pistons if they havn't moved beyond drum brakes and spindle hubs. there is a tool required but a pair of pliers will do. I do this work for 120 bucks when parts are supplied. 300 bucks should git'r done by an independent mechanic that will let you supply the parts. for 1987 make sure you know what model you have listed to not get the wrong part at the counter.

If you can find the specific tool or modify a socket, you can perform the head re-torque procedure described in the FSM. as long as the cooling system is kept up with water pump, frequent coolant change, and non-corroded radiator, and fresh hoses, it will see 300,000 miles easy. I would only pre-emptively do a head gasket if the engine has known overheats, or frequent overheats.

swap the 4spd for a 5spd.

repair the exhaust pipe or the gasket. that is what gives tyou that 1 cyl lawnmower sound. If you put an equal lenght header on and blew a gasket, it would sound the same. make sure to use new exhaust studs!

they dont die. they go to jail with bullet holes and have to bond out.