MilesFox

Harbor freight had a similar system listed. the same 400 bucks would be either a camera, or a pistol. I would go for the camera first. I fi could watch from my computer i can heads someone off in the act. It's a tough game: Deal with it, or do something about it. The challenge is a compromise in between that. Only so much to do about it. Only so much to deal with.

I have a gate with a broken lock, and other people on the property that wont put the board back in the. crackhed comes into the yard, enters the garage man door, and exits with the goods from the ally at the overhead door. I found the overhead door latch released. I have a board to put in the gate, but the next guy who leaves has no way to out it back from the outside, unless he walks halfway around the block and thru a yard either one door or 3 doors down to come back in from the street. I need to get the landlords to fix the gate. I was new when we moved in, but it has settled, and the deadbolt is bent. the deadbolt needs to be replaced, and the striker hole needs to be relocated down half an inch. When it did work, you had to lift, push in to turn the key, if you didnt break the key in such an attempt. The moral of the story is dont have anything that can be turned in for scrap metal, as that is what is target of theft. Who is going to steel 2 sets of wheels with 140x4 bolt if they dont have a car to put them on? crackheads looking to score 15 bucks to buy steel reserve, that is who. at the same time i park my car in the alley with the doors unlocked and the windows down sometimes, and that is ok, since i have a factory radio. If i left the car parked there too long, i take off the license plate so my reg. sticker doesn't get snipped. It doesn't help that i have a crack house across the alley (lic. plate stickers) and it is under construction (attracts scrap collectors) I can see all down the alley and across 3 yards from my kitchen window when i am shooting at squirrels with a pellet gun. My best defense is to be ever present in the garage/alley, but i have not been outside much in the last few months. I hope to catch someone in the act and hold them till the pigz come and take them away. But all i got is a 22 cal handgun i found in a garage and the wrong bullets (rim fire) for it, so i don't think i could shoot at someone legally, even if justified. I'll have to set up a security camera, as i would recognize any trucks in the alley from the scrapyards and around town. scrap theft is a big problem in milwaukee.

I f you like 3-doors, check out my 86 3door build thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119353 This xt will get the same treatment, except for the retrofit, as this car is already assembled. The project cut out for me is the ea82 wiring, and bodywork I will be taking my time with this one. First priority is to organize all the goodies that came with it, and them make room in the garage. I have bums and crackheads ripping me off inside my garage, so my stuff is most secure if organized in a way that i can keep track of it, and then start on the work when i can complete a task in one shot, then put everything away until the next session.

if i didn't care about this car, i would swap all that moist yummy suspension int my 3-door. but then i would have to put this one back together with spare parts. I like the idea that it is an already built car; a project car that i did not have to put together(but, really, got paid to put it together before hand.) Not to mention Tom (theloyale) did most of the heavy work with the suspension swap (tom, as much as you hated it you deserve the credit) The problem with the TPS is it is a 4 pin unit on the spider intake, but the 87 has 3 pins on the harness. The current tps is somehow mounted backwards with a hole on the top side against the throttle body. It is literally mounted backwards. My intent of this car as a project is to get the ea82t going right and proper, as this particular car is about the pinnacle of what an ea82 car can be built up to while staying in the ea82 generation of engineering. I have another ea82 block that would be cool to build with forged pistons, as this car's engien has ported heads and delta cams. but the bottom end is out of an 87 carby wagon that was flooded in a river. The engine that came out of it(receitps from the dealer) has some serious crank walk play. So this is one more excuse to beat an ea82t into the ground, futile or not, but this car would be an EXCELLENT candidate foran ej20g swap. If i had my way, i would use an ej22t closed-deck block with a 2.o wrx top end. IT came with a shortened driveshaft and modified trans mount to use an ej trans. so now that i know my welder was not stolen out of my garage, i plan to tackle the framerail rust like i did on the 3door and go form there to restore the body and mount the kaminari kits nice and proper. This car came with things that are literally one of a kind or no longer available. My biggest thrill about this car was that it was first registered to Subaru Of America as a promo vehicle.

Valve covers ar most likely leaking. There is also a o-ring in the oil passage between the head and the cam tower, which it can leak (under pressure) The cam seals are probably definitely leaking, which the oil runs down the front, the bottom, and drips off near the exhaust. There may be axle grease on the exhaust cats, look for a ripped inner boot. If you have the capacity to remove the engine, go ahead. Otherwise, he cam seals can be changed by removing the cam retainer wheich contains the seals, and do them on a bench. You can remove the radiator to get at the front seal and oil pump. The quality of work will be best if you pull the engien, and this allows you to rebuild the cam towers and replace the o-ring, as this is the only way to cure lifter tick if it persists after fresh oil and oil pump seals. Pull the motor and clean it up, install new cam, front and oil pump seals. rarely does the oil pump itself need to be replaced. Replace the water pump and the timing belt components. If you remove all the belts and pulleys, ditch the covers as this will make future routine service infinitely easier (a timing belt job becomes 20 min instead of 2 hours). Leave the rear main seal alone if it is not leaking. Only replace if brittle and cracked. In improperly installed new one will more likely fail thean the original one left alone. YOu may just have to live with egr or purghe control codes. you can relace the component with a resistor to fool the ecu. The purge control you can bypass. The egr you can disconnect. But yes, there are write ups that explain changing these parts with toyota or nissan, once you adapt their connections. original pieces cost too much, but are pocket items at junkyards. Usually the plastic nipples break off before anything else. you can put this motor half together with missing parts and it will still run. This engine is fairly simple without too many little things to lose track of. Keep the old subarus alive. I was the only one in indaiana with old subarus 10 years ago. Welcome from a former hoosier.

I have seen an engine with backwards heads, and a copper tube run across for the egr. it will work. the heads are cast the same with the exception of the egr port being tapped on the one. You can tap an egr port on the other head if you have the machining tools.

If you bring that car back, i know someone who wil buy it. I have a complete motor and wiring harness for this car, as well as some other rare bits. If the car runs and drives, you will make it back. As long as you have enough sense to check the fluids and watch the temp gauge. I am in milwaukee, so if you get this car, i hope to see you turn up at local subaru functions.

it has $3000 worth of ground control springs and agx-2 struts all around. But an lifted xt woyd be something to have...

check the intake gaskets as there is a coolant passage there that can fail and use coolant in the cylinders.

pull the plug boots and spray them out with wd 40. i had to deal with this onec on a 98 legacy sedan. I endd up replacing both cam and crank sensors, but for some reason, spraying the wire boots with wd40 did the trick. althoug i know of an ea82 that would do this when the temp was below 20 deg F do check for spark and start from there. maybe give the cam and crank sensors a wiggle. This advice almost makes no sense, but you never know...

good news if you do find a dual range 5sod, it is a direct bolt in using your existing axle,driveshaft/clutch and mounting.

Maybe you should switch to 10w 30. Although 5w30 is a recommended oil (for coldest climates), but at the same time, the FSM states that 5w30 is inappropriate for sustained high speed driving. the hart in the fsm describes use of 5w30 for climate at 0 deg F or colder. 10w30 and 1w40 are charted for -10 deg to 100 def F EA82 turbo according to 1988 xt fsm

is the vss connected?

you can replace the fuse links with j-type fuses found in a legacy or ford. with battery terminals, you can replace them with brass marine types, since the cables unbolt from the terminals. This way you can disconnect the battery with a wing nut, instead of distorting the terminals.

they would probably stay unless you wiggled one too much. generally they stay on from hydraulic suction until you pull them off. They only seem to fall of when you are trying to install them.

you might be able to slide the cam out to install the rocker.

as long as the cables are not backwards. The FSM states that you would fry the ECu if the battery were connected backwards.

the idea of going in thru the brake booster line is to eveny distribute the product. this is doen because the car will not run if you try to dump it in the throttle with intake boots/ MAF disconnected.

you can connect a moder n deck using the common ground schematic. tou connect all your positove leads to each speaker, but just use one negative lead fro the left channel, and one for the right. you will hafe one each front and rear ground unused, just let them hang or tape them off. The headunit itself grounds through the antenna lead.

I like to go by a 10% rule. For example, i the tire is rated ad 35psi max, then 10% is 3.5. now subtract that from 35 and you get 31.5 essentially 32 psi. A tire rated at 44 psi take 4.4 away and you get 39.6 essentially 40 lbs. I like to run 40 psi in my legacy wagon with 44 max. tires on it. You can also determine the right inflation for the tire with a good eye, if you can look along the contact patch from the front or rear of the tire and see how flat the tread lays. If it us under, the middle tread will be cupped inward, and if over inflated, the sides of the tire will come off the ground. If you are recording your tire pressures, and varying them for trial purposes, you can observe the wear patterns on the tires between logs to determine if over or under is the way to go. If thetire is wearing in the middle, it is over inflated, if on the outer edges, under inflated.

If i were a secret agent cartoon, i would be "Jim Bond0.7" and have moves like Michael Jackson's Moonwalker and Saturday Night Fever. Think of Inspector Gadget's car as a 3-door coupe with a trashwagon paint job. You are correct, this is the fabled 'monsterwedge' The car was offered to me as it was the best resort to keep it alive, versus sell it to some riccer kid who would blow it up in a week. It does have its issues. Although mechanically complete and intact, it needs work figureds out between the TPS sensor, missing knock sensor, and the combination of a manual boost control, shortened wastegate arm, and volvo recirc valve combo's with a ford intercooler. My plan is to go over the FSM and try to find a correct TPS, or possibly retrofit an XT^ throttle body, and replace the intercooler with one from a WRX that would be a more direct fit(which wasnt abvailable in the USA at the time this car was built. IT supposedly has a dual range RX trans, but no selector lever. It does have the diff lock, but it wil blow fuses when the button is pressed. This car has had some elecrical gremlins with the alternator not charging, and the dgi-dash going blank. The rest of this car as a project is the test of my electrical skills and abilities to make it run and function correctly. I was told it used to run 14's on the quarter mile with its current setup. It's nice to have a project car that i didn't have to build, but could have. It would have taken all my 12+ years and 40+ subarus to accumulate the parts to build such an example. Although i had a hand in installing the suspension, and i had the motor out twice, swap the first time, clutch the 2nd time. If any of you oldschool members have some history on this car, i would like to know about its past history.

you will want to look in australia where carb models were available for the intake and carb. some sort of ford escort disty will work. was this originally a turbo(wrx) and are you using a turbo? for the time and effort of sourcing a factory carb from overseas, someone might just have a cut down harness to use for your engine. I understand the preference for a carb in a motorcycle for simplicity all around. if you are dealing with an engine importer, see what they may get from australia. Othyerwise check the aussie based subaru forums

Delta cams, ea82t, ford intercooler, spider intake, twe header, vf11 turbo, 5 lugs, xt6 interior. It was first registered to subaru of america as a promotional vehicle in 1987 there is more history to this car than i know of, so there are things i need to find out about it as well. It was offered to me for 500 bucks so all the anmswers are there to guess what it is....

it's blue, but really slow for a ea82t