MilesFox

i vote for the studs being overtorqued and thus ripped out. fine threads+aluminum=Clamping force without too much torque vs coarse threads in iron block. Or--there were bolts used instead of studs that bottomed out and ripped the thread. Studs should be replaced with new. The idea is the stud is installed first. It more or less sits in the bore, and then the nut takes up all the torque for clamping force. A bolt just pulls on the threads before it can bottom out. usually the nut brings the stud out, and when reinstalled, it is essentially a bolt. you tighten up and it feels like you should go one more turn, and whoops, there goes the thread. this is why new studs should be used anytime they are available to prevent this. I helicoil can repair this if installed properly. i have been there and done this with many a soob with floppy exhausts. I once swapped heads because of stripped exhaust holes. I used a helicoil for the first time and now swear by not pissing with cheap redneck methods.

High mileage is not a bad thing, as these cars are known for going 300 and 400,000 mi on the original engines. If you look at it this way, you bought another 100,000 miles with the timing belt having already been replaced. Look in the service papers to see when the water pump was done. Usually the original unit will last about 225,000 miles before it fails, so if it was done within 100,000 miles ago, then it should last the next 100,000 miles or more. congratulations!

Not one of my creations. But it does have the engine from my former 87 rx/87gl-10, which the bottom end was originally a 87 carb motor from this photo. I was hired to work on it, which the first time was over the sale of my engine to him for me to install. It was a promotional vehicle, as i was told.

if there is no rust on it, there is no reason to get rid of it.

SHHH... don't tell anyone. I guess now you should figure out what i got it for. It was offered to me 2 weeks after i was hired to work on it. But no one here knows what it is yet, so let them guess!

Neither of those, but i have seen all those cars in person. It's not a hatch. There is a clue in those pictures posted to what kind of car it is.

I just got into a new to me subaru. It was offered to me for a great price by a guy who had hired me several times to work on it. Someone on this message board may be familiar with (or may have owned) this particular car. Can you guess? I will drop a hint for every correct guess. First clue is the fact i am posting in the older gen subaru forum. Second clue is that this car has been registered in several states. .

the ea81 disty will work with the ea82 coil if you lengthen the wire and connect it. Otherwise, you will have to swap or flip the gear on the ea82 disty to work in the ea81 engine

your mechanic should know what a helicoil and exhaust stud is to repair it properly. I'm sure he is uded to iron blocks in old pickup trucks, but not subarus with aluminum engines. flipping cars is only profitable if you get the cars for about scrap price, already have a fleet of spare parts, and do all the work yourself. like i stated before, never expect to recover repair costs by selling a vehicke. If you put 500 bucks into a car that is valued at 1000 bucks, it is still only worth 1000 bucks. Sell it as is and break as even as possilbe, or enjoy the car for yourself after all that effort. also, find a different mechanic, or stick to some old GM car.

Do post here, as a lot of the members on the xt forums reside or originaqte from here as well. Nice Goldwing, always wanted one. I always wanted to know if the timing belt/chain alignment on the goldwing was the same as an ea82/er27. welcome aboard. if you are looking for more er27 engines, i have a complete one with new gaskets, but no one to give it to. have you ever put a soob engine in a trike?

i am currently undertaking scanning a complete volume of 1988 st FSM sections 1 thru 6 with a handheld scanner. I have scanned about 1500 npages page by page tyhis way. I am taking it a ste[p fuirter and using a text capture program to translate the volume to an actual web page html format that is searchable by web crawlers and displayed as a dynamic website. It is alot of work, since the text editor is not as precise, and i would have to capture each of the individual images top make them display properly as a on-line web page. I will try to figure out a way to make the torubleshooting flow charts navigable by clicking yes or no as links to go to the next step in the procedure. It ios enough work not only to scan each page, but also to re-name each file to keep them organized. I am alnmost done with the capture process so that i can start making them into html pages.

Mine is an 86 GL with full RX body kit and turbo legacy wheels. There were 90 loyale RS. Some of them turbo

make sure the idle air control valve is working. It is the cylindrical piece on the front of the throttle body. There is a hose that leads from it to the intake boot. try pulling off the hose after starting and see if the idle goes up. This valve is supposed to open to introuce a false vacuum leak to make the idle go up, then close when warm. Think of it as an electronic choke for the fuel injetion. chances are it is gummed up and the plunger inside is sticky. Try soaking it in sea fom. It is easy enough to remove and bench build/clean. Remove the alternator to get at the 4 screws.

check for coolant on top of the block. There is a crossover pipe under the intake that has o-rings. maybe they could be leaking. just an idea of somewhere to look. I have only worked on a DOHC one time.

Sweet! glad to see a write up. With your permission, i would like to post your article with pictures on my subaru resource website that i am developing. You should also submit your article to the USRM as well.

the pulley probably broke when the valves collided. probably designed to do that to minimise damage. REPLACE THE WATER PUMP, as it was likely the cause of the belt failure. Especially at 220,000 mi. Water pump seizes, engine overheats, and the drag on the pulley snaps the belt.

Try filling the block via the upper radiator hose, re-connect it, and then the radiator. Perhaps drive the car and let it warm up first, then remove the cap and add coolant. Sounds like there is an air pocket in the block, and filling the radiator alone wont fill the block unless the thermostat is open, which it will have a hard time doing i there is air in the block. as stated, run the heat full hot. If the heat remains cool, there is not enough coolant. Once the radiator is full, check for a steady stream of bubbles as this would indicate a head gasket failure. how many times has the engine been overheated, or how hot did it get? What are you burping for? did you just servcie the engine, or was the coolant already low?

you will want to use a silicone grease for the brake hardware such as sil-glyde from napa.

maybe you have piston slap. sounds more likely than valve rattle. This is considered mostly normal on these engines, and it goes away once the piston skirts heat up and expand to tolerance.

the hardest part would be swapping the engine cradle to allow room for the up-pipe. you should consider an already turbo engine to swap in. do a barrel roll:grin:

maybe it has stuck caliper slides. the pedal may be going to the floor if the brake is heating up and boiling the fluid.

*b*i*t*c*h*e*s internet spew. I know this, because i got filtered myself

find a gl-10 with a 4eat, and swap an ej4eat with ej motor.

depends on the year and obd1 or obd2. dimentionally and physically either engine bolts up the same. i forgot to mention you need to mod or swap the front engine crossmember to allow room for the turbo up-pipe. see if you can pourchase the whole car from the salvage yard, as all the suspension will swap over with the crossmember. int he end you may find it more economical to come up with an already turbo legacy. just dont find yourself sinking $$$$ into a rusty car when you can buy a whole car as you want it for less $$$, or worse, dumping $$$$ into a rusty car that you ultimately wont be able to drive(abandoned project)

I would assume to use the ej22t block, and your current intake with its sensors and existing wire harness and ecu. You may want to go ask about this on legacycentral.org in regards to ej22t