YetiMan

long term update: after 10,000 miles the 2.2 swap has been great, it gets 28-30 mpg...no problems. I'm slightly amazed by this. Thanks to all who provided such helpful insight on this. -YM

rock out! I'll see if I can't find that thang tomorrow.

thanks...the bad connection part was buried in post # 4: I think I'll end up having to keep it and try to get my money's worth. It's far and away, far and away the best handling snow vehicle I've ever driven. It's made light work of some hairy driving in Big and Little Cottonwood canyon storms here. I think that starter problem has to be a voltage/battery thing because it only happens when it's very cold. I don't know....I'd be happy if I got a few years of normal driving out of it. This harsh shifting is not making me confident but ************ I'm just going to drive it and see.

well, seems like that one wire got it. not sure where/why the harsh 1st to 2nd shift is coming from. My Haynes manual has a long cautionary diatribe about how the only thing I can do with the transmission is check the fluids. heh, I'm sure that's true. So I did that and all is well. Perhaps it's just losing gear oil into the ATF. anyway, the codes seemed to have been caused by that bad connection. ADDITIONAL INFO: So, as for the bad readings on the MAP, I went and talked to a service guy who's done some work with these and apparently altitude does have an effect on the way they read, and my out-of-spec readings were consistant with other similar units at this higher elevation. Strangely nothing in my manual mentions that, and I damn near bought a $270 part that wouldn't have changed anything. so, you know, word to the wise about that there. that is all.

It's 7 pages of PDF and pictures. I can't do anything for you, perhaps someone else can. Is it just that you don't have Adobe? It's a free download here: http://www.freedownloadhq.com/Acrobat.html It's worth it, the endwrench article goes into painful detail with a lot of pictures.

I think you'll appreciate this and particularly this good luck!

yeah. I hear that.

it seems strange to me that instead of modulating your brakes and steering you took the time to shift 2 levers.

daily update: god and/or nature is now interfering with subarizing. I am sick as hell and it's dumping out. the good news: I've done nothing with the sube except reset the codes after I reconnected the bad connection and I've driven it 2 commutes, so like 60 miles, and no CEL. My scanner says all 7 cycles are complete and no codes. maybe this is whooped? too sick to do anything but ski work and sleep. thanks and goodnight

that's what I did yesterday.. ...and it was a hassle! "what are you looking for" "95-98 subarus" "what kind of part" "the manifold absolute pressure sensor and the pressure source solenoid valve for a 95-98 subaru" "what model" "any" "what model is your car" "outback" "we don't sell engine sensors, they stay with the engines" "it's not on the engine it's on the passenger inner fenderwell in front of the strut" "I see....I see a headlight switch there" "well, this is there too, can I just go find one out there" "no, you need to go out with somebody" "fine, can we do that" proceeds to tell guy that I'm looking for a headlight switch for a legacy and to "keep an eye on me" we go walking around back yard and find nothing... repeat above about 6 or 7 times anyhow, I did find one and what's weird is that they both give suspect readings, but they're the same exact suspect readings, so maybe they've failed in the same way (???). My line of thinking at this point is that since they give identical readings, there must be an underlying problem with the amount of vacuum in the manifold that's causing the reading to be wrong. pain in the rump roast... There's a vacuum chart with values in the haynes book. I'll call my bud and see if he's got a vacuum pump and see if we can find out about the MAP for sure today.

so, here's how today went.... I went and got the haynes manual, which gave testing parameters for the MAP sensor. I verified that the input voltage was good (5 volts: check) then I checked the signal voltage, which was not within specs. Specs in the book called for 3 volts at idle ranging to 2 volts at wide open throttle. I was reading 1.5 volts at idle ranging to 1 or just shy at open throttle. The PSSV's resistance was right in the middle of the specs. So, I went to find this assembly at a junkyard, which took some driving around but I did finally find one, with the whole pssv. I installed it and saw literally zero difference in readings from the MAP. So, I went home and continued to go through vacuum hoses. I would think I found one that was a little crusty and didn't quite seal all the way tight, I'd snip it off and snug it up, and no change. So I went through a lot of that without effecting anything. Then I noticed that one of the wires going into the connector to the PSSV was backed out of the plastic housing a bit. I took a closer look and it looked like it wasn't actually engaging with the other connection at all, so I pulled both wires out and snapped them on the female connector, sans male connector housing. No change in readings. I went down to the parts store to find that this MAP sensor is $270...I can't get $150 for my entire EJ25 engine, I'm sure as ************ not going to pay almost twice as much for a tiny peice of plastic. Anyway, I reached a breaking point having not resolved this....I did drive it up to work tonight and scanned the OBDII, which has completed all it's cycles and has no codes. I'm really hoping this means that one wire was the source of the problem. It makes me wonder about the MAP voltage...do any of you think it's possible that this would read differently at higher altitude and that the haynes book is giving numbers that apply to sea level? any other thoughts on this, possible ideas on vaccuum loss that isn't obvious and how this might effect the way this MAP voltage reads... I'm out of ideas other than fogging the intake and vaccuum hoses with carb cleaner and hoping to find a leak I couldn't hear, see, or feel today.

any info on replacing the backlight for the auto transmission indicators? I saw earlier in the thread that there was a link, but linky no worky... anybody got the beta on that one?

1996 OBW. all signs point to the little bastard on the right strut tower so that's going to be my target today. I'll get the book, try to figure out if I can test it, if not then I'll go to pick and pull and see if I can find one.

I'm going to be working on this P0106 tomorrow, will triple/quadruple check the vacuum hoses (I'm just not finding anything out of place so far ) and possibly test/replace the MAP sensor... any wisdom here on the P1102 (Pressure Sources Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction)? This is terminology I don't really grasp. I don't know a Pressure Source Solenoid Valve Circuit from my own rump roast crack. Perhaps that's where it is: my rump roast crack. That would explain why I can't find anything with a big Pressure Source Solenoid Valve Circuit label on it anywhere on the car. Anywho... if you guys know anything about it rest assured it's more than I do and I'll post some sort of delightful emoticon if you help me make it go away before I go looking for it where the sun don't shine. for what it's worth, and in keeping with what seems typical for the P0106, the 4eat is shifting a bit funky...kind of a hard shift 1st to 2nd. I'm kind of hoping these two relate and that I can run the MAP one down tomorrow and that'll get 'em both. thanks again, you guys rock

yes, the craigslist 2.5 is in my garage now and it would be nice to sell it. and I guess I'll just try to drive it and see what happens and really hope that something rendering it unsellable without thousands of dollars doesn't come up, like a transmission.

If I'm looking at pulling the engine to do a flywheel I'm going to set it on fire. what would be better is if somebody bought it.

yes OK front. apparently a bunch of ************ up in there is all rusted together also. I don't know, I could do work on my F250, this car is way above me so I have to trust my friend, who says the front end is severely rusted to the point that it was close to impossible to work on it. I don't know off hand, I have them all stored in my scanner. Sorry, I'll write them down and post later. What I remember is some MAP sensor intake pressure, and some barometric code. I'm going to take a good look at all the vacuum hoses and hope I get lucky this afternoon. actually yesterday morning it initially spun free as if the flywheel was stripped. Then it caught on the second try. I imagine I won't get that one to duplicate until I'm at least 500 miles from home and low on money.

Maybe you're all right. I don't know, engine, CV joints, wheel bearings, a bunch of CEL's, and a starter issue all within a few weeks and like 150 miles? I wish this car wasn't a peice of ************, I like the way it runs and drives.

Since getting the 2.2 into the 96 outback I've driven it some, and it's probably the nicest handling snow car I've ever driven. That said, I don't trust it at all now, having looked around this board and now talked with other later model subaru owners who have all struggled with terrible reliability and really expensive repairs. Since this car is way more complicated than anything I've ever worked on I'm in over my head. All I wanted was a reliable car that worked well in the snow. If anybody wants to buy this car it has a 1995 EJ22, automatic, new front CV's. It's in Salt Lake and I'd be curious if anyone would make an offer. I hate to say it but I don't think I want to hassle with all these problems that everyone has with these cars. Before the 96 I had: two 88's one 86 two 85's one 83 one 82 and they were all unstoppable. I guess things change. If I can somehow get out of this thing before something else goes I'll be happy to find another old subaru or a toyota truck but once this is gone I don't think I'd ever consider another newer subaru.

don't do it!!! I made this exact mistake a few weeks ago. don't do it!!!

update: the engine dropped in and ran with no hassles. need exhaust gaskets to finish up on monday. It was a pleasant surprise to find out the CV boots are torn on both sides. all the info on this board was correct and really, really helped get this done. :clap: :clap: :clap:

I just did this... check out this thread here and this one here me...I won't know if it paid off for a while. but the swap itself was straightforward... make sure 1995 donor engine has EGR...I can confirm 1995 Impreza automatic does. Change flywheel. Everything else is a direct bolt-in/plug-in swap.

well...bought the 1995 EJ22 (impreza automatic w/EGR) dropped it and the OBW off at shop. I'd really hoped to get some photos and write this up and maybe learn something myself but my friend was uncomfortable with that, so I'm just crossing my fingers at this stage and hoping it all goes well.

OK, so I got my fat can off the computer and went to have a talk with the tester who's done my truck for the last 2 years. He confirms that if all the emissions gear is in place and the OBD2 is not showing codes that it is passing. I am going to think about this overnight and see if any more good advice bubbles up here (and muchas gracias for all of it thusfar), but at this time I'm thinking that Operation Lemonade will be a go tomorrow. I will then commence referring to myself (repeatedly and enthusiasticly around women...) as an Outlaw. Possibly as an Outlaw: Half Cherokee and Chocktaw. seriously though, I'll check back tonight to see if y'all have any other goods for me. You people rule all.

well I googled and found this: 10.3.3 After July 1, 1991 no new verifications of engine changes in accordance with Sections 10.3.4 and 10.3.5 of these Regulations shall be accepted unless it is demonstrated to the satisfaction of the Director that the changed system is equally or more effective in controlling emissions than those systems originally manufactured on the vehicle. Installing an older engine or installing an engine with an engine displacement that is other than that originally available for the vehicle, will result in the vehicle being classified as “tampered”. The rules relating to tampering will then apply to such vehicle.