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SUBARU3

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Everything posted by SUBARU3

  1. It would appear that I have a small leak in my Mom's 99 Forester's radiator. Seems to leak at the top corner of the tank when hot and pressurized. I have a new Impreza radiator. (97) It apprears to be the same thing except that the top tank seems to be a bit smaller. Can I still use this? Is it just a smaller volume radiator? Thanks for your time. Todd
  2. Just a few observations: That is not the original engine. It is a later EA71/fatcase version with the flywheel cover from the original engine. Also the oil fill is an indicator of that. No big deal though. Still great engine! The rust at the hood cable is a problem, caused by the rubber seal not being seated correctly. Water get and soaks the insulation on the underside and the next thing is that. Very common. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10028&highlight=hood+cable+rubber Todd
  3. Look inside at the VERY top of the inner wheel wells. Inside the car..... Where the cowl, firewall and the inner wheel well come together. Both sides. Pull back the insulations and the wheel well vinyl trim. Todd
  4. I have a set of sliders from an early 90s Legacy if you are interested. They are just sitting around.
  5. I'm assuming that the EJ series from say 1990 to 1996, (prior to interference design) is not a flat tappet design? (Like the EA series)?
  6. Has anyone here discovered the importance of adding ZDDP (Zinc to our precious EA71 and 81s)? What about the early EJ22s and EJ18s? I believe they have roller tappets, but I'm confused about this. Do they? Are the early 90s EJ22s the same as the mid to late 90s EJs? What a science! Most oils now days do not have enough to prevent premature wear on our flat tappet engines. I know the mobil 1 15w50 has about the right amount at 1200 ppm, but most oil is severely lacking. I just added additional to all my EA engines tonight. Good reading: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ (search ZDDP) http://www.zddp.net/ http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=82&catid=9&loc=show
  7. Has anyone here discovered the importance of adding ZDDP (Zinc to our precious EA71 and 81s)? What a science! Most oils now days do not have enough to prevent premature wear on our flat tappet engines. I know the mobil 1 15w50 has about the right amount at 1200 ppm, but most oil is severely lacking. I just added additional to all my engine tonights. Good reading: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/ (search ZDDP) http://www.zddp.net/ http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=82&catid=9&loc=show
  8. Thats the problem. The belt driven fan is not of much use at idle. All Subarus have the electric fan. I think I have the stock fan, the shroud and the brackets if you need them. There...thats fixed!!!
  9. Very Nice! I have the same car and color in a 1978 (automatic) I LOVE the automatic!!!! Not many around. Todd
  10. It's within the normal range. The fan usually does not come on until it's halfway up through normal. With that said, the temp will rise until the fan turns on and lowers it. Your temp gauge may be slightly off. Additionally, if you have the original radiator, it may not be working up to par. They lose alot of their flow as they age. (sediment). 1. Make sure the fan is cycling on and off. 2. Check radiator at radiator shop and or replace. (cheap) 3. Try synthetic oil 4. Lower the temp outdoors! 5. Gauge inaccuracy 6. Water pump full of sediment. Todd
  11. I have a large pile of various AC components for your BRAT. It's a good start on getting the original system up and going. You will need to fab hoses and get the evaporator and condensor, but there is a brand new wiring harness, compressor, new clutch, belt, switches, relays, vents, etc. It includes the engine mount. I also have the large fold out of the original installation instructions with GREAT graphics and the parts inventory Currently biffanyus has 1st dibs, but if he changes his mind, all of it will be available.
  12. Love those Corollas! Do you have any pics of that white one? What year is that?
  13. I believe there is a horn relay under the driver side of the dash above the fuse panel. Mine was bad and same problem. Replaced it and presto.......horn! Todd
  14. Those Subarus are quite close to me.... like 10 miles. I chatted with the owner. Did anyone decide to buy? Todd
  15. I have replaced under warranty 2 1995 Imprezas and a 1995 Legacy. ( In Texas) It was not an issue. Makes the cars seem like new inside!! Todd
  16. I think I will do the wet compression check and see. I know it's a pretty strong runner, so we shall see. It's certainly not a Subaru, but it has my curiousiy and I'm really liking the smallness of it. It's pretty simple too....much like my favorite Subys. Todd
  17. Well here one for sale in TX!! http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/1687939903.html
  18. Hey Guys, my other project, (Dodge Colt) is getting some new parts. Does this flywheel look like it needs turning? It's very smooth, no ridges. Those lines are not grooves. 56 K on it. Some rust only from sitting. Your thoughts? Thanks! Todd
  19. Could be the stalk on the steering wheel. The contacts are in that assembly. Somtimes they need cleaned, sanded and repositioned.
  20. They are the same as far back as 76....maybe even earlier.
  21. I have a question to pose to all the great Subaru mechanics! This Colt/Mitsubishi has about 110K on it. It's a 1.6 inline engine. These things has issues with oil burn from the MCA jet valves. (Stem seals) If the rings look good after a compression test, would it be a terrible thing to place a rebuilt cylinder head on an engine with 110K? Too much for the bearings? Rings? Anyone with any Mitsu experience? This is a 4G32/G32B engine. I have a nice used engine that was stored well and only has 10K on it, but I'd rather save that engine for later. Cylinder heads are pretty easy on this car compared to a Subi and I have a rebuild head just ready to install. Thanks in advance.... Todd .
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