Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

SUBARU3

Moderator
  • Posts

    1797
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by SUBARU3

  1. I'm beginning to think Datsun!! I have a Z catalog restoration parts. Anybody have access to Z cars to check the measurements of their back glass?? Todd
  2. Get it! I'm sure it's got to be better than what's on the car. Negoiate a lower price for the age of it. Partsvoice is showing no inventory from any of those #s. Additionally, I bet the difference in the coupe and GF is slight and the difference between gen 1 and gen 1 is also slight.
  3. Get it! I'm sure it's got to be better than what's on the car. Negoiate a lower price for the age of it. Todd
  4. I have an NOS one, but it's breaking apart.(That's the problem with 25 years old rubber). It's on an extra piece of glass (GF) I can get measurements, or could send it to a company. Paul, or somebody....we need part #s for the gen 1 stage 1/stage2 back glass rubber on coupes and sedans. I'm sure gen 1 and gen 2 have different #s, but I bet the rubber is nearly the same. I think all gen 2s are the same part #. 665002700 is the part # for the 77-79 GF hardtop Todd
  5. Ok, this ties into the rust issue on these gen1 cars. They rust from the inside out from leaky seals! We can get the front weatherstrip, but the rear is elusive. It is just as critical at the front. Alternative seals can be used on the gen 1 station wagon hatch by using the super beetle rear glass rubber. It's a good fit. I was thinking that the Datsun/Nissan Z cars, 240Z, 280Z have about the same shape and size rear glass. I wonder if that might be an option! I know their rubber is still manufactured aftermarket. So....this post is a brainstorm for ideas. Please post your thoughts!! Todd
  6. This may be stupid, but in both my 95 Imprezas I have to push the steering wheel switch "DOWN" for a few seconds before pushing it "UP" to set speed. If I just push up , it doesn't engage. Both my cars are like that. Otherwise they work fine. I think it's just the way they are designed. Todd
  7. Yes, Leave the headliner alone!! The rust you have started from the inside out. Again I stress the importance of good rubber!! (That's why the exhaust is still good!) Todd
  8. I thought you were going with just the electric fan. The BRAT came with a belt driven fan, with or without AC. The AC bracket for the compressor was added on importation to the states. It reconfigured the belt/fan set up. So, if you want NO belt driven fan and just a stock configuration, you can use my bracket and my stock one groove pulley. Otherwise, just work it however you want. Hope this helps. Todd
  9. If you remove the AC, you don't need the outer pulley anymore.
  10. When AC is added and additional pulley/groove is added to the stock one, or a new pulley with 2 grooves is added. I have the stock pulley if you need it. (1 groove)
  11. Try again...the site is messing up. The pics should be there. Todd
  12. It's a stock Subaru alternator holder. Nothing complicated. It was used on all NO AC EA71s and EA81s. Here's a graphic to help you. Todd [/url]
  13. I know this makes you sick! At this point I would strip the cars interior, gas tank ect, sandblast and then weld/repair. ALOT of work!! You might look at the VW floorpan sections as a starting point. http://westcoastmetric.com/ Todd
  14. What window are we speaking of? The front and rear door glass will work from a 4 door sedan only. The front glass will work from a BRAT, 2 or 4 door car, wagon. The GF 2 door will not fit. No glass will fit from 80 or later cars or 82 or later BRATs Todd
  15. Here's a pic of the bracket. Todd http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/medium/SANY0687.JPG
  16. Rainy and miserable 30s-40s Had ice last week. I'll get a pic. Todd
  17. Paul, I think we are headed in that direction! What better that a new wethershrip and a new windshield!! Todd
  18. I have an original, "no ac" bracket for your alternator. It's comprises 2 pieces, the mount and the tensioner bar. From an EA71. Take the heavy compressor mount completely off the car! $10 Todd
  19. Basically a coupe with a higher compression EA71, a higher geared 5 speed, (2300rpm at 55mph vs 2500rpm @ 55mph) The GF was the "luxury" car, the FE still has the basic interior. But still a cool car. FE was for Fuel Economy, or was it Fuel Efficiency This car looks to be in good shape....someone save it! Todd
  20. Yes, but he was referring to having all the fluid run out by just removing the axle. If the seals were leaking, they would leak with or without the CV/axle. I 2nd that it is the rear seal. Todd
  21. and neither of those are related to the CV axles. Todd
  22. Yes, you can remove the axles. The transmission stubs have seals independent of the CV axle, it's not like the rear center drive shaft. You don't need to remove fluid. Todd
  23. Looking for the part number for the clips that attach the bottom of the front grill, to the radiator support. Thanks much! 1995 Legacy LS AWD sedan Todd
  24. Stop the talk and go get it!!!!!....somebody please!! (I'm getting teary eyed). If you can't pick it up, just take boxes an part it there. Todd
×
×
  • Create New...