SUBARU3

The GF had the regular 1600 engine. The FE had the higher compression engine to assist with higher MPG. The FE was rated at 50MPG /highway. Both US and JDM engines came as a 'thincase', with external water transfer between halfs up thru 1979. The 1980 borought about the 'fatcase', with internal water transfer between case sides. The pipe for the heater core and the carb heat was a separate pipe on both engines. The water pump on the thin and fat cases were different. There is NO profound diferences between the 1600 jdm and US engines, except the manifold and carbs. Your engine looks/could be either. My guess is that it's the original engine. Todd

That's a 78. Mine is a 78 I'd be interested in the VIN # of that one in comparison to mine! Mine is the exact same car.....everything! Todd

I have that same car, same year, same color, automatic! Todd

I second the hub being stripped.

Caboo......what exactly is different? I know the 'capture nuts' are missing, but what else needs modified. Todd

I had that same car in red at age 16. Hmm....I should buy it! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=7538&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 Todd

The windshield from a Gen 1 wagon or 2/4 door sedan are the same as a Gen 1 BRAT. The GF front glass is the only different one. The front bumper on the BRAT is not shock mounted, but it is the same bumper itself. The doors from a 2 door sedan or GF will fit too. They are actually better, as the GF and sedan doors have internal side impact bracing. The BRAT does not have this. Todd

Personally, I'd stay a mile away from that 2.5! Your Honda is more reliable. Look for a later or earlier Outback or Legacy. Todd

Well, I personally don't like them. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder! They might work well for some and be better than some of the dashes I have seen.

I have never had a failure on a stored engine head gasket. I have stored many a used Subaru engine for up to years. I guess if the gaskets were bad to begin with, or going bad it could fail on reinstallation. I would not do head gaskets on a stored engine, unless there were "specific" indicators that led me to believe it's integrity was in question. Many people do replace and then they DO have head gasket issues, for failed installation methods. I feel the original head gasket installation is pretty hardy. I would replace all the easy stuff...seals ect. Oh.. replace that oil separator plate with the aluminum one!!!!!!!!! Just my 2 cents.

I might add that a BIG contributing piece to these failing, is a worn clutch cable. The more worn the cable, the more pressure it takes to depress and that force gets applied to the mount. That's how the stress fractures start that can lead to collapse. Either service/lube the clutch cable or replace at regular intervals, or when you notice increased difficulty to depress. However, often the increased pressure comes on so gradually, you don't recognize it. I would therefore recomend servicing the cable yearly.

Damn, I just sold one of these on eBay! (Well, the relisted one sold.) I had grabbed some spares for my fleet, after I found that they can suffer metal fatigue on the clutch side and eventually collapse. The 77-81 BRAT and the 75-79 cars are all the same. The automatics are similar, but lack the reinforcement for the clutch. There are quite a few being parted out now on the board, I'm sure you can find one. You can have them welded too. How many miles on your BRAT? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8022808550&sspagename=STRK%3AMEUS%3AIT Todd

You can ship the bar absent a box. you have to cardboard up the tips and tag it REALLY good! Todd

I agree about getting some interior pics. Things I look at: Steering play Pedal pads Steering wheel wear. (Texture rubbed of the 2 "knubs") (Paint rubbed of the steering pad) Does it have the original fabric covered hoses? carpet wear seat wear foam compression in the seat shifter knob wear (at 23K it should still look like new) armrests on door scale in radiator oily engine compression check turnsignal stalk play....does it cancel in both directions after you make a turn? (The canceling disk was plastic and worn, thus the signal would sometimes not cancel.) Car looks like it's more than 23K to me.....I may be wrong, but thats what it looks like to me. However, the price is still fair for 123K too. Actually, 23K should be more if the condition was better. Generally, the rust in the front fenders is directed correlated to the mileage. Since there was no inner liners, the amount of driving and repeated soakings, led to additional rust. Not driving it allowed it to dry out. I think that an actual 23k, would mean less rust in those front fenders.

Are there any pics of this car? I'm fearful of 23K.....123K is still pretty low for thesecars, but it's easy to say 23K after the speedo turns over. I've seen NUMEROUS cars with 50 K, 46K, 27K and they all turned out to be turned over. Check carefully!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 100K is alot to lie about, but people think they can get away with it on these older cars with 5 digit speedos.

I have a 78 auto in the same color. I love it! I have put about $1800 in it myself! Thats certainly a fair price. I'm glad to see these cars "FINALLY" appreciating. I've recently noticed a movement away from kid ownership to adult enthuiast ownership.

No...not much in there to get damaged...... you are fine.

The other is passenger side vent cover that covers the vent opening in the cowl, with the aftermarket AC installation. Normally, without AC, the passenger vent has a hose that connects to the cowl. With the addition of AC, they tap that vent and duct it to the evaporator. (Blocking off the cowl opening.) Paul is correct on the other 2 items. Todd

EA81 or EA71

You need to get a dealer license Jon. After you pay the sales tax, registration and transfer over and over, you could buy 1 more Subi!

If you are looking at it and it's what you need, go for it. You might ask him if he will take less. He has a very limited market to sell it to. I'm in that market too and would not be interested. They are hard to find, but remember, they are also a pain to get set up.

That recording kinda sounds like it. Her's is not quite as noticeable. She had an oil change and went to 10 w 40 from 10 w 30 and she reported it has all but stopped. Hmm....I think it's a sticky lifter now. Thanks all for your input. You are all great!!

That depends on what is is worth to your buyer. Is this an "in demand" item? It is rare, but who is your market?

Hmm....I'll look at mine again. My 78 and 79 wagons didn't have a tach either. I just looked at the diagram, found it was just one wire and that was it.....it worked for me. Your tach may bad, but I have nevr ran across one that doesn't work.

bump on the belt tension