SUBARU3

Bump..... Thanks

Mary...did you add a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft? The automatic cars did not have that , but you need to press one in, (and a seal), for the manuals. They are easy to put in. Todd

Pardon my dumbness on the EJ's....(I'm a gen1 guy) What is the difficulty between the interchange of a "manual trans" engine and an "automatic trans" engine? (2.2) Are the blocks/flywheel cover different? If you match up exhausts the same, exchange everything down to the longblock, what else poses a problem? Thanks! Todd

Replace the idle screw. They get worn an then are not effective in doing their job! I was amazed at the difference with a new screw. Todd

I don't think any Gen 1 or 2 came with "factory " AC. The systems were all added state-side. I have lone stars in all 4 of my gen 1s. They had 2 compressor options....the Mini York and the Sanden 507. I have both. Did you need pics of anything in particular? Todd

Here's some cheap rotors. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7995742564&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT All the other brake parts are pretty inexpensive too. As for the carb, you are running rich. The adjustment screw should be no further out than 2 or 2.5 turns from full in tight. Check float level. Tighten all screws on top of carb. The float does not need replaced. I've never had one that got heavy. If it did, you can adjust it up. IMHO, I'd simple get a replacement carb and then later rebuild yours. The rebuild kit is: CARB REBUILD KIT (BORG WARNER) 10434B These carbs are really easy to rebuild in an afternoon. Todd

I'm helping a friend with this issue. What 2.2 SOHC engines are the best and most simple to transplant into a 95 Impreza automatic? Do the automatic and manuals have a different bellhousing? Can one just take all the external stuff off any 2.2 and replace it with yours and it will work? What years 2.2 will "easily" work in a 95 Impreza? Thanks again guys! Todd

Well, back in my folks dealership, the term "thincase and fatcase" was used to describe the early and later version of the EA 71s (Thin referring to the external water jacket and a "thinner block") Now Paul.......go to your room!

The engine currently in your car is referred to as a thin case. It has a external water transfer and the old style water pump. The newer 1600s are called fatcases. The water trasfer between sides of the case, is internal and they use the later water pumps. ANY 1600/EA71 engine will work. The bell housing changeout is VERY easy. It's just 10 or so bolts ...period! It's not a modification. You need to do this to mount it properly in your car. Additionally, low mileage thin case motors are getting very rare. Feel free to PM me and we can exchange #s. I'd be glad to help you out. Todd

Thanks emily! I think the bolt actually is OK, even without the topping of JB. It torqued OK too. Time will tell!!! Todd

Actually, the bolt seemed secure even without the topping of JB weld. I will monitor VERY closely. The pulley that bolts into the water pump has only about a 1/2" of thread too. And no, I'm not a welder! I'll pay for a good job with that!!! Thanks all! Todd

Thanks for the feedback grossgary. I feel pretty comfortable with the depth of the the threads. IF HOWEVER, it fails, welding will be my 1st move. Thats what I was going to do, before I tapped it further down. Quick question.....could something like this be welded with the engine IN the car?? There is plenty of room, but what about fire/explosion hazard?? Todd

Well, the car is up and running again!! I was able to tap about 1/8 " more into the hole. That means that the stud I used is holding with much better that 1/2" of thread. (not quite 3/4" though) Since the bolt has no "pulling" tension. It feel pretty confident with it. I topped that broken area with JB weld, for some additional support. It's in pretty darn good! I LUCKED out this time!!!! I'm leaving the passenger side timing cover off for a while to monitor the situation. Thanks to all that helped me feel better about this and offered suggestions. You are all my Subaru family!! Todd

It's on the top of the engine flywheel cover/bellhouse. At the top rear, passenger side of the car. Todd

I have used a big screwdriver in a EA71 and EJ22 without any difficulty. Todd

Pics would help. Thanks, Todd

I have a 95 Impreza AWD with 80K and all is fine. Also a 78 wagon with a 3AT that is perfect! I think the key is a trans cooler. Cheap insurance, as heat kills trannies. Todd

Thanks scott......I will use that advise too in the plan!! I'm just worried about welding and the gasoline in the car! Todd

Yea, I kinda don't want to do any deeper drilling either. Too risky. As for getting a new pulley, because it would be permanent, I decoide to use a threaded rod. (see in my pic). That way I can place a nut on the end to take the pulley on /off. Strong locktite to be used too. Scottbaru, not sure what you mean by a plate?? Sounds like an interesting idea. The boss does not go into the pulley. It just sits against the boss. There is only one bolt for the pulley too. Yes, it could sit out a bit. It also appeared that the original timing belt was shredded on the side from the pulley being loose/misaligned. (I'm not opposed to more frequent timing belt changes.Just the belt is fairly easy!) I'm going to order that aluminum repair stuff and call some welders too. Do you all think it can be welded in the car? What about fuel in the engine? (That would be bad to blow it up!) Thanks Much !! Todd

Now Shawn.....go to your room!

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/index.htm What's everyone's opinion of this stuff? Matt suggested this. I watched the video and was impressed. Todd

No, the h2o pump is on the other side. I wish that was the case! Darn

I really thank everybody for the valuable input! Keep it coming!!!!!!!! It appears that welding in might be the best option. Where should I beging for this type of work? If I have to pull the engine......I'll just replace it then. I believe it can be welded in place. I have the radiator out and there is lot's of room. I had thought that I could tightly wrap wire around the threads and the remainder of the boss, then top of with JB weld. Like I said the threads are tight in the last 1/4 or so of the hole. Can I drill it deeper and thread more?? Man....I'm so depressed about this. Todd

No .... not all of it at least. It must have broke into 2 or 3 pieces when it broke. Strange!

There is no other damage to the engine. The car was running perfectly before pulled into the garage to do the belt. I would have never noticed this unless I decided to check all the pulleys. Thank heavens I did! The piece found in the timing belt cover was just a small piece. It looks like a piece from the damaged area, but not all of it. It's amazing it didn't get bounced around under the cover!! I can go and cut a piece from a salvage engine too. I just don't know anything about my welding options. Remember, the bolt is threading tight in the last 1/8-1/4" of the hole. Can the stud just be welded to the block?? And used in place of the bolt? Todd