rusty1

Off to Advance Auto to pick up a filler neck and stethescope in hopes I can get a better idea where engine rapping (loud when cold, eases up once warm) I have seen other threads suggesting HLA problems, and I'm thinking maybe have a look at the timing idler. Will the $10 stethescope help? Any advice how/where to look will be appreciated. Are after market valve cover gaskets ok, or should one stick with oem? Is removal of rocker arm assembly required to diagnose HLA problems. Vehicle was purchased 3 years ago at 94,000 miles from a shop that *thinks* they replaced the timing belt. Now at 150,000 miles I have my doubts. Thanks.

So I hooked up the manifold gauges to it and tried to introduce some dyed 134a into it. Nothing happened. Toko the gauges over to the Safari van, fired it up , and it took the better part of the can, its compressor started and I shut down the valves and went back to the Legacy. This time the Legacy took the rest of the can, its compressor started and cool air was blowing out the vents. Had 100 psi high, 40 low. Started looking for leaks in the usual pleaces - nothing showed up right away. Figure I would run it for a day or two and watch for leaks. Shut down the engine, closed the manifold gauge valves and the can tap valve, disconnected the high side, disconnected the low side and WOOOSH - a fine yellow mist started spewing out of the shrader valve as I frantically tried to cap it. Valve core kit and removal tool have been ordered. Lesson learned.

My intent was that if I found 0 psi high and low I would look at the o-rings and replace them as necessary (brittle, deformed etc). The vac down the sysytem and see if it held. With 5 psi on the low side, some refrigerant remains in the system, and I should have it properly recovered at a shop. So adding enough refrigerant to engage the compressor and show where the leaks are seems to me to be a good procedure , although I will lose the added 134a to the recovery process. I should add that I am also working on a 2003 GMC Safari with 0 psi high/low so I plan on using some of the dyed 134a on that.

AC compressor is not starting, so taking adnantage of Advance Auto's 20% off special, bought a manifold gauge set, o-ring set, can of 134a with dye, and can tap. Hooking up the gauges, engine off , 5 psi. low side, 0 high. Same with engine running. I'm considering just adding enough of the 134a to start the compressor, and looking for leaks. The question is: should the compressor be on with 5 psi? And if not , at what pressure will it start? Once the leak is found . I will have the system puged, then vac it and recharge. I had it serviced two summers ago, and last summer it didnt run - so I figure the leak should be fixed rather just recharging.

Hi all, At 150,000 miles time for another set. First replaced at 43k, and got Subaru to foot part of the $700 bill at dealer. This time considering a couple of options: Salvage yard has complete assy with 8k miles, but original type bearings. DIY with reference to earlier threads, remove the assembly and take to machine shop. Have local mechanic remove assembly, send to machine shop or do it himself. Dealer. Question is there a "better" bearing out there, in terms of manufacturer? I am aware of the type difference. TIA

Could someone recommend a good manual for (or link to) engine removal procedure on this car. I don't know that I couldn't do it myself . TIA

Thanks for the replies! I did browse to car-part.com and found a shop(Cahills) nearby (zip 12180) with an engine, with new head gaskets, timing gear etc. for $1,600. I called and they offered to install it as well for $2,100 total. In my price range. I haven't priced a reman from ccrengines, but between the freight and the installation, I think it might be prohibitive. The only other issues the car has are the need for rear bearings(replaced once at 70k), here we are at 140k and a torn up CV boot - thinking a new axle here. Otherwise the car has very little body rust, new brakes and tires. And flushing/replacing the radiator has been recommended by any of the people I've talked to. Decisions, decisions - thanks guys!

Engine on my '00 Forester is toast after 145k, probably due to a blown head gasket not being replaced leading to bearing failure. Options: Reman Engine: $5,000 plus install. Short block: $1,900 plus install assuming heads can be re-used. Add on timing belt, gears water pump - guessing over $3,000. Used engine - so far best deal I've found is $1,900 f.o.b.junk yard - shop estimates $700-$900 labor and recommends new head gaskets and timing belt etc. Sell the car: One salvage yard offered $700. Mechanic who works on Subarus says up to $1,400 if body in good condition, which it is. Anything else I should consider?

Thanks, ferret esp.

Correction : It's a 2000 Forester

The lights that illuminate the right hand (tachometer, temp guage) side of the instrument cluster seem to need new bulbs. Is it difficult to access them? TIA

Yep, 8.5 mm it says. Thanks.

Want to turn rotors, wondering if anyone knows how far down they can be turned (rear). Vehicle has 124k miles, first brake work since I've owned it , bought at 55k. TIA

A buck seventy list.

O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2, dealer says -front-O2 sensor needs to be replaced. So I did. CEL light comes back on after reset - same code . scanner shows Heated O2 ready, O2 not. Did I change the wrong O2 sensor? TIA