jpdukes

Thanks to both of you--the other threads to explain it pretty well. I'm hoping I'll have time to do the fuel pump test... Regards, Jesse

Friends, I'm in a sticky situation in that I'm moving accross town today and tomorrow and hoping to take my semi-derelict 1992 Loyale with me under it's own power. I still have dreams of fixing this car up, but I'd hate to have to tow it. It was starting and running a month ago, but has developed a non-start problem that I've pretty much diagnosed to be a supply fuel pump problem. Engine is not getting fuel and I can't hear the supply pump when the ignition switch turns to run. Usually, I hear a low electrical hum as it pressurizes the tank. I actualyl replaced one of these not too long ago (2-3 years), so I'm taking an educated guess that it's a fuel pump relay or solenoid as opposed to the pump itself. Since I'm frantically packing boxes, I don't have time for a more complete diagnosis. Unfortunately, my John Muir manual is packed in a box somewhere and I have no idea of how to find the relay. Can anybody offer me a tip for how to find it? Thanks, Jesse

Thanks for all the responses. I neglected to mention that I pulled one of those coils out of the hole when I was cleaning it up a few days ago. I figure that if it was tried once, and is failing to hold again, that the threads must be beyond even that solution. Maybe I'm wrong about that, but I'm going to try retapping. However, instead of trying 7/16 studs and tap, I bought a 12mm tap--just slightly larger than the 7/16. The value of it is that I can use the exact same thread guage as the original, 1.25, which might help the tap work true. I'll let you all know how it goes. Just to note: I'm fixing this problem and then hoping to sell the wagon. I love it, but I'm a busy freelance reporter who needs a reliable car, and doesn't have enough time or money to keep it running. I'd like to own another one some day when I have more time. It would be a perfect canoeing and surfing attack vehicle.

Oh, another question: Don't ask me how but I seem to have lost the studs for the two unstripped bolt holes for the other y pipe flange. These are 10mm studs, yes? Anybody know what kind of threads? -JPD

1992 Loyale. I'm dealing with the classic problem of stripped threads for the exhaust y pipe to the engine. Having looked through the forum, the agreed upon solution seems to be tap new threads at 7/16. I just want to confirm that this is the best solution. So: new threads at 7/16 inches The heads are aluminum? No need for one of those expensive coiling threading systems? Thanks for your thoughts... jpd

More like 23-27 these days, but the engine's just plain old and not in perfect tune either. In it's prime, 27-30 and that was with a Yakima roof rack. Sometimes, I'd remove the rack for a long trip and it seemed like it would go up by 1-2 pts. Still love this car... -JPD

Thanks, that's very helpful. I'll check the vacuum hose and other air delivery lines over the weekend. If it is a stuck vent, any hints on how to unstick it? I assume I'd pull the dash panelling and expose it that way... -JPD

I'm having difficulty with my blower modes. Whatever I select on the mode control panel (heat, AC, defrost, bilevel) the air only comes out of the face level vent (not the floor or defrost vents). A friend said this might be a solenoid between the mode panel and whatever component makes those switches. My manual and wiring diagram shows the mode panel and an AC and blower relay, but no solenoid. Does anybody know what component controls the blower modes and whether there's a solenoid or relay between it and the control panel? Thanks, Jesse

Thanks. I remember now that I had to get new threads tapped for those exhaust bolts at the head. When you dropped the exhaust, did you put a new gasket or silicone on the flange? If not, any trouble with exhaust escaping there? And what does an O2 Sensor socket have that a regular deep socket doesn't. Some kind of way to accomodate the wire? Or some kind of cushion? Messing up the threads would be a disaster. Did you have to get a new cat or could you tap some in... Very helpful--so was checking out the older threads. -JPD

I'm trying to replace an O2 sensor in a 92 Loyale. It looked pretty straighforward, except the only way I can find to loosen the sensor is with a deep socket (after you cut the wire). Only problem is there's no way to get the socket on the sensor. It gets jammed between the U-Joint and the transmission. You just can't get the right angle. Has anybody done this? The only thing I can think of now is to try and drop the catalytic converter. I can probably manage this, but it's a huge pain--the bolts are so old and seized and I'm not sure which one's it makes sense to loosen. Anybody know another way? -JPD

I have a 92 Loyale and I think my only problem is a slow refrigerant leak in the AC system. The compressor *seems* to be working in that the clutch engages and it draws power from the engine. Is there a reasonably quick test I can do to check the operation of my compressor? My guidebooks basically just say "Don't you touch the AC system". I would prefer a test that does not involve removing the compressor. Also, similarly, is there an easy way to tell which refrigerant port is low pressure or high pressure? I'd rather not buy a guage if I can avoid it. Thanks for any help. I'm not so much lazy as really busy right now.

I just need to figure out whether my 92 Loyale's orginal AC uses R-12 or R-134a. Maybe it's in my owner's manual which has gone missing. Searched the archives here but all I could find was a pretty interesting discussion about using propane as a refrigerant. So, I'm guessing 1992 is still R-12, is that right?